Weld a reducer?
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Elder User
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Mayfield, KY
Weld a reducer?
I am planning on putting my headers on this weekend. I have access to a 110 mig welder but have never attempted welding something as thin as tail pipe. I was thinking of attempting to weld the reducers myself. At the very least I would like to at least spot them on. Note **not a welder** Is this something I should attempt or would I be setting myself up for a fail?
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2012
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From: Raleigh, NC
Give it a try but first, practice on some similar scrap. You should certainly be able to spot them on. If you have to do the weld under the truck, you'll do well to spot weld them into place.
It takes a steady hand and good eye sight. Get in a comfortable position. Try "stitch welding", i.e., a series of little spot welds. Just hold the trigger for a second or two. Start the arc on one side of the seam and end on the other.
Note: I'm not a welder either but I manage to "git er done".
It takes a steady hand and good eye sight. Get in a comfortable position. Try "stitch welding", i.e., a series of little spot welds. Just hold the trigger for a second or two. Start the arc on one side of the seam and end on the other.
Note: I'm not a welder either but I manage to "git er done".
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,762
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From: Antelope Valley ,CA
exhaust tubing is actually considered thick , like mentioned find a scrap piece of similar gauge and adjust welder and practice on that , when you can make a good bead then move to actual work .
tip
sand or grind all areas you are welding first , clean metal welds alot easier than rusted greasey metal.
tip
sand or grind all areas you are welding first , clean metal welds alot easier than rusted greasey metal.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
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From: **** hole San Jose ca.
Before you start any type of welding look around for anything that may catch fire.
Have a water hose or fire Ext handy, Do not breath the fumes. Wear old clothes an a old jacket is good with gloves. Welding sometime on the flat surface or table is a lot easier then doing any vertical or over head welding. So keep this in mine if going to lay a bead on around the pipe.. I'd play with the welder a few days first too get a better feel for what your going to be doing, so your welds don't look like bubble gum stuck on. ... orich
Have a water hose or fire Ext handy, Do not breath the fumes. Wear old clothes an a old jacket is good with gloves. Welding sometime on the flat surface or table is a lot easier then doing any vertical or over head welding. So keep this in mine if going to lay a bead on around the pipe.. I'd play with the welder a few days first too get a better feel for what your going to be doing, so your welds don't look like bubble gum stuck on. ... orich
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
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From: NorCal
2x.....Practice, practice, practice. When comfy and ya got the settings down, then tack weld together and finish weld on a bench.
Stitch welding is a series of short beads layed at intervals. Then ya come back and stitch between the first series of stitches to join the beads.
Bodywork (patch panels) are done with a series of tacks about two inches apart to spread the heat and reduce warpage. A zillion tacks later, it's a full weld. Be careful with heat build up or else the panel will start waving "hello" back at ya. I use a shop air to cool the metal.
Exhaust work can be done either way. I prefer the latter for exhaust work since it can be easy to blow through 16g tubing.
Stitch welding is a series of short beads layed at intervals. Then ya come back and stitch between the first series of stitches to join the beads.
Bodywork (patch panels) are done with a series of tacks about two inches apart to spread the heat and reduce warpage. A zillion tacks later, it's a full weld. Be careful with heat build up or else the panel will start waving "hello" back at ya. I use a shop air to cool the metal.
Exhaust work can be done either way. I prefer the latter for exhaust work since it can be easy to blow through 16g tubing.
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Elder User
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Mayfield, KY
I have welded with this mig....did my patch panels like HIO says above only I didn't worry about closing the beads all the way around. I plan on tacking a few spots and then laying on the floor to finish. I use a fan to cool and move fumes away....thanks for all the tips.
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Joined: Apr 2010
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From: tulsa
You didn't say whether you'll be using a gas shield or not.If you look on the welder itself it may give you suggested setting for different metal thicknesses and or using gas shielding.If the welder has no tank for the gas or regulator then it's set up to run on a flux-core type of wire(no gas).
After you find a usuable setting(on a practice piece) I usually start an arc with one hand and dial it in with the other.The sound of a Mad Bee is what I'm usually going for.
Practice is your best friend here.Maybe even grabbing a 1 foot section of pipe to practice on.Then make several cuts in it about 2 inches apart but don't make em all the way through.Practice welding the slits left over from the chop saw.After you have that success you're good to go.If that gap proves to be too much you could always start with a few cuts from a sawzall as they're much thinner.Hope this helps.
After you find a usuable setting(on a practice piece) I usually start an arc with one hand and dial it in with the other.The sound of a Mad Bee is what I'm usually going for.
Practice is your best friend here.Maybe even grabbing a 1 foot section of pipe to practice on.Then make several cuts in it about 2 inches apart but don't make em all the way through.Practice welding the slits left over from the chop saw.After you have that success you're good to go.If that gap proves to be too much you could always start with a few cuts from a sawzall as they're much thinner.Hope this helps.
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Elder User
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From: Mayfield, KY
You didn't say whether you'll be using a gas shield or not.If you look on the welder itself it may give you suggested setting for different metal thicknesses and or using gas shielding.If the welder has no tank for the gas or regulator then it's set up to run on a flux-core type of wire(no gas).
After you find a usuable setting(on a practice piece) I usually start an arc with one hand and dial it in with the other.The sound of a Mad Bee is what I'm usually going for.
Practice is your best friend here.Maybe even grabbing a 1 foot section of pipe to practice on.Then make several cuts in it about 2 inches apart but don't make em all the way through.Practice welding the slits left over from the chop saw.After you have that success you're good to go.If that gap proves to be too much you could always start with a few cuts from a sawzall as they're much thinner.Hope this helps.
After you find a usuable setting(on a practice piece) I usually start an arc with one hand and dial it in with the other.The sound of a Mad Bee is what I'm usually going for.
Practice is your best friend here.Maybe even grabbing a 1 foot section of pipe to practice on.Then make several cuts in it about 2 inches apart but don't make em all the way through.Practice welding the slits left over from the chop saw.After you have that success you're good to go.If that gap proves to be too much you could always start with a few cuts from a sawzall as they're much thinner.Hope this helps.
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From: Mayfield, KY
Good news/Bad news.
Good news-logs are off and headers are in place......**Note: Don't quit day job to become a header/starter juggler in the circus**
Bad news-Don't think I will be able to attempt welding this up as my exhaust curves around the differential and points to the ground right in front of the rear bumper. No amount of twisting or turning can afford me to get it back far enough to line it up. If I cut the pipe behind the mufflers I could probably do the deed but then I would have to figure out how to weld from there back with it on the truck.....
Good news-logs are off and headers are in place......**Note: Don't quit day job to become a header/starter juggler in the circus**
Bad news-Don't think I will be able to attempt welding this up as my exhaust curves around the differential and points to the ground right in front of the rear bumper. No amount of twisting or turning can afford me to get it back far enough to line it up. If I cut the pipe behind the mufflers I could probably do the deed but then I would have to figure out how to weld from there back with it on the truck.....
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Elder User
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From: Mayfield, KY
Well I decided to cut the part that goes around the differential off so I could try to hook up exhaust. Got a straight piece of exhaust tubing from Advance for around $7 and I was in business. All I can say is a 8ft gorilla aint got nothing on my welds......they may be ugly but they work. May have to pull the tranny cross member off and notch at some point but I fired her up and almost cried. I have never heard it sound that good before....took it down the road after setting toe and getting new "used" tires on the front and all the sway if gone.....I am one happy camper with my Dynomax delivered to my house from Auto Zone for $99. I ran a free set of these on my El Camino and Cutlass for over 10 years with no problem and the Elky was a daily driver for 3 yrs.
Driver side in place and buttoned up....
Driver side in place and buttoned up....
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Elder User
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Mayfield, KY
Drove to the alignment shop yesterday......struck up a good conversation witht he guy and he ended up charging me $50 total instead of the $69 + tax I was quoted.....nothing like the gift of gab. I bet I drove around 50 miles just enjoying cruising......It drives like a new truck. Still waiting on the center caps and can't bring myself to put the beauty rings back on just yet.....oh well......Next step is early January to take heads to shop and prepare for the cam installation. In the meantime I will continue to do much needed bodywork.
