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Antifreeze leak

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Old Nov 25, 2013 | 10:12 PM
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Antifreeze leak

Im leaking antifreeze pretty quickly out of what looks like my water pump. however I check the radiator level (when cold) and its still full. My question is, how hard is it to replace the whole water pump and what stuff will I need to remove to get to it. Is it worth the work? or should I just replace the Gasket?

Thanks

PS I also posted this in the Pre-Powerstroke forum. 1993 F250 7.3L IDI Turbocharged
 
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Old Nov 26, 2013 | 10:14 AM
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The leak is more than likely coming from the weep hole in the water pump. The bearing/seal is probably on its way out. I would replace the whole pump. This is not a hard job to do. check out YouTube for a nice how to. (7.3 psd how to change water pump) this will help you out if you are unsure about doing this your self.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2014 | 03:41 PM
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Hey thanks for the reply. The new pump came from Rock auto. I got the truck in the garage but I'm having trouble draining the coolant. I've found the plug at the bottom corner of the radiator, but there seems to be a nut on the plug which is turning without actually loosening the plug. I watched the youtube video you mentioned and it was helpful. But because of the difference in years (between our trucks) his plug was different..
He says you need a fan clutch wrench to remove the fan? should I pick one up from Napa or will I be able to get it off using only a strap?

Thanks again.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2014 | 03:46 PM
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Another question, should I replace the thermostat and/or the temperature sensor while I'm in here?

Thanks
 
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Old Jan 3, 2014 | 04:45 PM
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I don't know about the sensor. Are they prone to failure? But as for the thermostat? Heck yeah. They're comparatively cheap and it's a lot easier with the coolant already drained, then to deal with it later.

Just my $0.02 from the peanut gallery.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2014 | 06:35 PM
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Pull the lower hose to drain the coolant

Also change the thermostat and hoses while you are in there
 
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Old Jan 3, 2014 | 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Diesel_Brad
Pull the lower hose to drain the coolant

Also change the thermostat and hoses while you are in there
Yup My thoughts also !
 
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Old Jan 4, 2014 | 04:31 AM
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Originally Posted by bluemtn95ford
Another question, should I replace the thermostat and/or the temperature sensor while I'm in here? Thanks
Gasket between the rear plate and pump on my 90 351 sprung a hole the week before Christmas and I ended up replacing the pump, my dad who has been the service manager at a local ford dealership since 1986 was kind enough to let me do the job in their shop after I got off work that night. My uncle, who has been a ford mechanic in the same shop since the late 70's, as well as several other techs all told me the same thing. If your thermostat is working, DO NOT **** WITH IT. The housings on the 351's are notorious for cracking when you take them off, especially when cold.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2014 | 06:42 PM
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Just went through this with my truck this week. First, we put a new hose leading to the "T" valve. I was coming home at night last Saturday and I see steam coming from the hood. Luckily I was only about a 1/4 mile from home, so when I got home, I saw that the entire engine bay was green with a puddle developing underneath. Next morning we changed the hose because the old one had a hairline crack in it. Then on Thursday I noticed it was still leaking just a little, so went ahead and replaced the thermostat.

Everything is fine now! Not sure if thermostat prices are different between gassers and diesels, but my thermostat was right at $30.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2014 | 12:38 PM
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Well I got in there and got the old pump off. I'm thinking I'll replace the thermostat while im in here. I am having trouble removing the old paper/fiber gasket from the block. anyone have any ideas on an effective way of getting this done? I've tried Gasoline and Goof-Off with no results.

Thanks
 
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Old Jan 12, 2014 | 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by bluemtn95ford
Well I got in there and got the old pump off. I'm thinking I'll replace the thermostat while im in here. I am having trouble removing the old paper/fiber gasket from the block. anyone have any ideas on an effective way of getting this done? I've tried Gasoline and Goof-Off with no results.

Thanks
I use a wood chisel to scrape the old gasket off. Works good on an iron surface, you have to be careful scraping on an aluminum surface.

Permatex has a product called gasket remover, but it isn't that great removing a thick gasket. It works okay when you get down to the nitty gritty next to the metal, but you still need to scrape after spraying it on.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2014 | 02:52 PM
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A razor blade works
 
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Old Jan 12, 2014 | 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by bashby
A razor blade works
Yes , razor blade scrapers work great Or, you can buy a right angle air tool that accepts Rolloc discs to help remove gasket material .
 
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Old Jan 12, 2014 | 05:10 PM
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Is there an issue with gouging the block with the razor blade and/or chisel?
 
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Old Jan 12, 2014 | 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by bluemtn95ford
Is there an issue with gouging the block with the razor blade and/or chisel?
With a chisel yes but with a razor blade no. I've changed a ton of water pumps and always use a razor blade scraper and have never had a problem. Also, Permatex makes a really nice spray on gasket sealer that I use on all my water pump jobs. I probably don't need to use it but it makes me feel better, plus with how tacky the stuff gets it makes it to where your gaskets are less likely to slip around while trying to line everything up. I just spray it on thick, let it sit for 5 minutes, spray another light coat over it and the gaskets have no choice but to stick and seal lol. It may be something you wanna look in to.

BTW I've never changed a water pump on a 7.3 so if for some strange reason the gasket sealer is a bad idea someone chime in. I don't want to give this guy bad advice.
 
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