Been raining the last few days, I can't do the bubble test until today. Did the test as shown in one of the you tube. Ignition off, use the remote wire from the passenger side of the truck to get the starter running. There are a lot of bubble in the secondary fuel bow.

Question: How do I know which injector(s) is bad?

Tousley Ford/ AutoNation injector part no. 4C3Z-9E527-BRM $220 each after core return. Look like it is a remanufacture/rebuild. Do I go ahead buy all eights?

Thanks for the help

 

There was a ttest where you undo the Fuel lines AT Fuel Bowel that go to each head and then hit the starter again
this will single the Side out

then you Pull all Glow Plugs and Insert 1 GP at a Time to test each cylinder

Make sense???

 

Do you happen to have the link? When I found which side is bad, change the injectors on that side? What about the other side, would it be on their way out soon too?

 

Remove the fuel lines at the fuel bowl that goto each side of injectors. Put a balloon or fingers from a latex glove on each line with a ziptie. Turn over engine like the bubble test and see which one inflates. That's the side the leaks on. Leave balloons and pull all but the first gkowplug. Turn over again. If it doesn't inflate its good, put in a glowplug and repeat. One that inflates or pulsates is your culprit.

 

I didn't save the Link

There was a You Tube video on it though

IIRC they just undid Both fuel lines to each head and zip tye them facing UP and Together and you could see the Air Bubbles come up the Line

You can use a Ballon or whatever but that will take a Fair amount of crank to get it to Fill

But Im thinking you should be able to see the Bubbles come up from the fuel lines that runs to each head


As far as replacement IDK what to say there I would only do the Bad ones Unless you find you have Low fuel pressure and then you may want to do that side

Depending what you find may dictate what parts get changed

I would change fuel filters and Install the Blue Fuel pressure spring

 

Looks like I have take the CAC tube and the air filter out for easy excess. It is alright to leave those out when I do the balloons test correct?
Let me get it straight, put both latex fingers on both side of the fuel lines and do the test again to see which one inflates.

Thanks

 

This test is going to be a lot of work, I am going to try this after the holiday when I can start early in the morning.

How long does it take to take the glowplugs out? Need to clean the garage and see if the truck fit inside the garage first

 

Test to atleast see which side to work on is quick, just break the 2 lines loose and slip a finger over the end, pull the fuel pump fuse so you don't spray fuel everywhere or just jump the starter off. As far as glowplugs, they aren't too big of a chore. It does help tremendously to remove passenger side wheel well and wheel, bout a 10-15 min job at most taking that off. Then the gkowplugs are right there. I haven't had my drivers side out but you can see em, shouldn't have to remove anything there. The glowplug harness is fragile so be careful.

 

Fuel filters was change 5000 miles ago. I did the blue springs and the 6.4 banjo bolts last year when I did the oil/egr coolers.

What you are saying it that this work will take on several stages, before I can order the injectors for Tousley Ford...

Thanks Benny

 

Here's a short vid I took but it doesn't show the setup but you can see what it looks like during testing.

 

Where is the fuse locate at? too lazy to look in the book right now. Feeling pretty down with all the happening right before the holiday

 

Thank you Robinthahood for the youtube, it least I know what it look like. You didn't have to take the air filter housing out for easy access to the driver side?

 

I'm nowhere near my manual so can post later, its a 20 amp though. For some reason the number 19 is in my head so it might be it. You could do the test in a matter of minutes and atleast then you'd have an idea of the side.

 

Yup,one glove finger (or balloon, or condom) on each line coming from the front of the cylinder heads to the filter housing. The culprit should be obvious.

Pulling the glow plugs isn't too bad on the driver side (cyl 2,4,6,8) and the front two on the passenger side ain't bad either (cyl 1,3) but things get tight on the back two on passenger side. Better to work from underneath or pull the fender liner for access I think. Another note, the connectors for the glow plugs get pretty hot and are cooked, brittle and easy to break on most trucks. It's a plastic plug with an o-ring to seal it in the hole. It' snaps in with tension from the electrical connector (and o-ring) holding it in place. The glow plug harness isn't terribly expensive and you may want to order a new one.

There is a tool to help pull them off without breaking. O'Rileys (and maybe some other stores) can order it for you. Should be less than $20. Some have had some luck with it but not guaranteed you can get the connectors off without breaking them even with the tool.

Glow plug remover/installer tool. OTC brand part #6768

I think you mentioned turning it over with the jumper wire on the passenger side battery. If you do it that way you won't have to worry with fuses and relays. Just leave the key off when cranking.

 

Found it in the manual, #40, 20A fuse for fuel pump. Thanks