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ask John at autofab for his opinion on backspacing. The 4.25" of the factory 8 lug alcoas from the 90's HD trucks seems to work alright. Still rubs a bit on the radius arms with the 35's though.
Hmmm. What about narrowing the rim up? I'm thinking 17x8 with 4" BS. Based on my observations and what Chasetruck says, it might be the right area for compromise. Were you stuck on getting a 9" rim?
Dropped off my beams today at Autofab, got there too early to meet John, I'll talk to him about his thoughts on wheels when I return to pick up my goods. I'm not at all set on a 9" width. I was actually debating going to a 16" rim. Tires and rims 16" is about $600 cheaper than 17" with BFG's and black steel wheels. Ultimately when I come back to convert this truck to 4wd I am planning on (possibility, haven't done much research) using axles out of a late model Dodge, front coil and 4 wheel disc, and they came with 16" rims so there wouldn't be a clearance issue.
I run H2s
They are 8.5" wide, have 5 5/8s backspacing and don't stick out. The only thing is that I think they would rub the radius arms with 35s. They are kind of close with 265s, and I think 33s would barely rub (or miss) the radius arms at full lock.
I ran H2 wheels on my '05 Dodge 4x4. I remember on that truck I needed a lot of backspacing and those rims had the most, much more than any aftermarket wheel had. Just had to have the center bore machined out, and you can cut down the factory Dodge centercaps to fit, looks pretty trick. I know, wrong forum for this but I like whats on your trailer! I just can't visualize what backspacing I need on my F350, don't really have a starting point to compare it to. Seems like most people are running zero offset to slightly negative
Glad you like the dodge! As far as the rims, the h2s stick out about as far as the stock 70s wheels but tuck in WAY more. The beauty is that theytuck in, but they are so far in that it creates its own problems with rubbing during turns. I mainly like the look of the h2s and buying them cheap sealed the deal for me
I dig the H2 wheels as well. They work well on widened front end trucks with the radius arms moved slightly in so as not to rub so easy. That is above and beyond what most will do suspension wise though.
I got back to AutoFab yesterday to pick up my beams and finally got to meet John. Great guy, good ol' boy. He was thrilled to hear you guys praising and recommending him, seriously caught him off guard. He had a great point, look at the angle of the kingpin and imagine that line continuing down thru the wheel, should be right at the center of the wheel to be proper. That would be 4" backspacing on an 8" wide rim. He said definitely 8" rather than 9" and a 16" rim, he runs 15" rims on his trucks but they're half tons (based on half tons at least.) So I'll be getting some 315/75 16 BFG's, only $233 a pop at 4WP, unless I find a better deal on something else on Craigslist. I'll post some pics once I get the front end back together.
I almost cried when John told me how much he wants for the lift for my crew, but that's getting what you're paying for. When money gets moving in and steadies I'll be placing an order.
For now though I just made spacers for the front between the coil and beam and did a shackle flip in the rear, I got 3.75" of lift without creating bumpsteer or other negative handling aspects. I'm running 16"x8" with 315/75-16 and don't have any rubbing issues.
John is a good guy for sure. He goes on some Baja and Pismo runs with a group of guys I go with and he's cool as heck. Very laid back & open to chatting & sharing info. Good guy for sure.
What he was talking about with the kingpin angle is called scrub radius. It does matter as it puts some load on the wheel bearings and turning is harder f you have way too much scrub, but any of the wheel combos we've been talking about will be close enough to not pose a problem for you.
Still - good choice on the 315/75r16's. Got them on my crew & love them.
And oldfordjunkie - what did you do to correct the camber on your truck after making the spacer fro the coil?
So how much did John charge to bend your beams? You can PM me if you'd rather not tell the world. I have been constipating this very same idea for my F350 SuperCab. Cant wait to see pics!
Just the beams are $350 or so + a GOOD core if I remember right lance. Prices may have gone up recently & the BIG beams off SCS or F-350 crew cab type trucks are a bit more.
My front was sagging a bit so I'm not much over stock now, I didn't have the tools to correct Camber at the time so I disassembled-spaced-reassembled-tested 6 times until I got the most height with NO negative steering effects.
So how much did John charge to bend your beams? You can PM me if you'd rather not tell the world. I have been constipating this very same idea for my F350 SuperCab. Cant wait to see pics!
Yeah the dollars add up fast! Don't know the price to just bend the beams but I bought the whole front end kit, you can see everything included on their website for the 1/2 ton pickup which is $1500, the F350 has a larger beam so it was $50 more AND it did not include the coil springs, I got those from 4WP for another $250. They are Skyjacker SKY188 springs, an 8" lift spring for the '80's Fords works out for a 5" lift on my truck. Still waiting for UPS on that one. The way I see it I can justify dumping $500-1000 per month into my pride and joy cuz I don't have a car payment, cheaper insurance and registration too. My buddy just bought a new Raptor for $62k out the door, a 1/2 ton pickup that gets 12 MPG, sweet truck but ouch! Whenever I feel bad for pissing money away I talk to him cuz he's always got me beat!
A little while ago my wife was eyeballing a diesel passat to "save" money. I explained that there is no saving when I can't spend as much money in gas, if I tried, as the payment would be on the car.
That being said, I would like a diesel car one day
Back on track, g-man, is the truck done yet?
Pics?
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