I have no idea how much it would cost I haven't had one done at a shop I usually just do it myself but that takes more coolant and such.
Yes by tach I meant RPM. around 2ish is what my mom's 97 4.6L (about 1 1/2 and only problem with it is the EGR valve which I haven't replaced because we don't have emissions in my area.) does and it also takes a while to drop the tach I have always figured the tach is just slow as it doesn't sound like it is that high to me but I also live in a hilly area so it is hard for me to get exact rpm ratings. I would take the truck to autozone or similar and have them put it on a code reader that will probably tell you everything that is wrong faster then we could play guess at it without knowing all the history and such of your truck. Be sure to run it twice one time before taking the battery cable off then take it off and put it back on and run it my mom's expy had codes coming up then I did that and they disappeared. Like tjc said these style t-cases are always a hard shift.
Trav

 

Good advice about having codes read, it's always good to know what the truck is telling you is wrong with it.

A couple things to note about having codes read at Autozone or similar stores:

-They most likely won't erase codes for you. I know at least here in RI they won't.

-You're better off getting a list of codes from them, and posting them here for help with diagnosing. Whomever reads the codes will most likely recommend a slew of magical parts to buy, along with empty promises of your truck being repaired. For example, an oxygen sensor code is hardly ever due to a bad oxygen sensor, yet most times Autozone will try to sell you one.

-Keep in mind, there's a reason they're selling parts, and not working as mechanics.


It may be worth it to you to disconnect your negative battery cable for a few minutes, to erase the codes, then reconnect it and drive for a week or so before having codes read.

 

Lol... you mean "there's a reason they offer free code scanning"... they do it so they can sell parts!

When I used to go there, I'd tell them to scan it and I'd personally copy the fault code off the screen, thank them for their time, and be on my way. They ain't allowed to clear them here either, but they will sometimes recommend parts... hence the free code reads, to push sales!

 

Exactly!

 

Trav - Sorry I sounded so snippy in that last post directed to you! Didn't realize how nasty I sound until after the fact. I believe I have someone that can do it for me


This might be a really stupid question but does my check engine light have to be on before they can tell if it's throwing any codes? My CE light isn't on.

 

Nope. The newer systems can have "pending" codes withOUT the light being on.

Something about having to see the fault twice within a certain number of engine run/stop cycles before setting a fault code. If it happens twice within that time period, then you get the light and it's set as an active code.

I don't see why all the newer vehicles, which ALREADY HAVE multi-line displays (if not full LCD screens) everywhere, can't just give you the actual code definition. Oh wait, that would reduce dealer visits...

 

And allow those who have no business even opening the hood make my job harder!

 

Agreed!! I *really* wish that the PO's of some of my vehicles would've just left them broken. Would've taken me, at most, half the time to fix had they not had their way with it first.

 

dixie460 I totally agree I feel like when I buy an new to me old truck I spend time/money getting it as close to stock or spec as possible due to jury-rigged fixes. You should see the "custom" step rails and "custom" tow hitch that the previous owner made for my truck all to save a buck. I have a new bumper and hitch to install if I can ever get a free weekend day. Its funny when you think about it!

 

no problem on that didn't think it sounded snippy.
I talked to my neighbor and on his 94 blazer it cost him $70 to flush the trans so I would guess around there maybe more being your truck is bigger.
Trav