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Been having trouble with the truck starting after it's sat for a while, like over night. It was even pronounced when it was 60+ degrees this morning.
Here's the strange bit. If I crank after the WTS light goes out it will just spin and spin and spin. Sounds like it's spinning ok. I could crank till the cows come home and it will just pop here and there. But the interesting thing is if I let off the key (not even re glowing it just letting off) and give it about a 2 count it will pop right off. It about smokes me out when it does.
Theories: icp or ipr problem? Brand new GP's about a month or so ago, relay checked out before I changed them, once it's been running it will start on command the rest of the day.
Fuel filter is fresh from when I did the regulator, I'm kinda stumped. That's what you guys are for. just kidding.
Last edited by madMatador78; Nov 17, 2013 at 12:59 PM.
Reason: More info.
Been having trouble with the truck starting after it's sat for a while, like over night. It was even pronounced when it was 60+ degrees this morning.
Here's the strange bit. If I crank after the WTS light goes out it will just spin and spin and spin. Sounds like it's spinning ok. I could crank till the cows come home and it will just pop here and there. But the interesting thing is if I let off the key (not even re glowing it just letting off) and give it about a 2 count it will pop right off. It about smokes me out when it does.
Theories: icp or ipr problem? Brand new GP's about a month or so ago, relay checked out before I changed them, once it's been running it will start on command the rest of the day.
Fuel filter is fresh from when I did the regulator, I'm kinda stumped. That's what you guys are for. just kidding.
Question, what does "let off the key (not even re glowing it just letting off)" mean? Not turning the key to OFF but back to RUN, then restart?
Been having trouble with the truck starting after it's sat for a while, like over night. It was even pronounced when it was 60+ degrees this morning.
Here's the strange bit. If I crank after the WTS light goes out it will just spin and spin and spin. Sounds like it's spinning ok. I could crank till the cows come home and it will just pop here and there. But the interesting thing is if I let off the key (not even re glowing it just letting off) and give it about a 2 count it will pop right off. It about smokes me out when it does.
Theories: icp or ipr problem? Brand new GP's about a month or so ago, relay checked out before I changed them, once it's been running it will start on command the rest of the day.
Fuel filter is fresh from when I did the regulator, I'm kinda stumped. That's what you guys are for. just kidding.
Your WTS is not indicative of GP on/cycle time. It is a reminder to let them work. But they are still on even when you start the truck. Your volt gauge will be pegged down, and then after running a while you will see it swing into the normal range. That is when your gps cycle off.
Usually I do yes. It just seems like it's getting worse and worse. And the red flag for me was it was 60 degrees this morning. It should have fired right off. I don't have any drive ability problems. Once she is going your good.
This may possibly be unrelated but this has happened when my rear tank is around quarter full I know the pickup is busted cause it ran out of fuel this summer. Is it possible I had enough oil pressure and not fuel pressure to get it going? Just thinking out loud here.
Ya. They make one comparable to the stancor. I might look into one soon. As the temperature has been dropping my cranks have been getting longer and all of my starting system is less than a year old.
I guess you made it through the storm ok Thomas. I was wondering about you. If the GP system checks out ok, then let it sit over night and before you try to start it, check the oil in the hpop res. Make sure it is full.....if you haven't already done that. Could be that one tank too.
I guess you made it through the storm ok Thomas. I was wondering about you. If the GP system checks out ok, then let it sit over night and before you try to start it, check the oil in the hpop res. Make sure it is full.....if you haven't already done that. Could be that one tank too.
Yeah it got a little gnarly around here yesterday, but nothing like southern Illinois there. So sad. I couldn't imagine that, I had a friend that drove down there yesterday (he cleans out forclosed houses) and he posted some pictures. Incredible destruction.
I'll check the GP system again, I'm suspecting that relay, I just had the VC's off and wiring looked great, didn't see any burning. Also that rear tank, I have a real hard time filing that up, I know theres a mod you can do, but I wonder if that had somthing to do with it. Just for kicks I'll check the HPOP res as well.
Originally Posted by Awitte58
Dont forget to run Diesel Kleen or some other additive in the winter! Not necessary, but it has helped when I drove mine in the winter.
I always let my gps fully cycle. I would watch the battery gauge and you can distinctively see when they are done. Then immediately crank over.
Oh yes Alex! I swear by the fuel additives in the winter. When I had the Benz it had the mechanical injectors, and you could definatly tell when you didn't use the additive, they would hammer more.
And that seems like a good idea, maybe I'll start doing that. Now that I got the Ranger I'll be able to drive that this winter and keep the salt off the PS. So long as nothing goes wrong. I'll check and report back!
I always let my gps fully cycle. I would watch the battery gauge and you can distinctively see when they are done. Then immediately crank over.
That's WAAAAAY too long. If you need one to two minutes of GP run time to start the truck, you've got other problems. Plus, that defeats the purpose of the extended GP run time. They're meant to run AFTER starting to heat the chambers for a more efficient combustion.
Not to mention the effect of running them that long on the batteries only, without the alternator.
Have you replaced your crankshaft sensor recently? If it's crapping out, that might be screwing up your fuel delivery.
I have cold start problems with mine, too. I think mine is because I need to replace the fuel injector seals. Wanted to do that while it was warm, but they're floating around my house.... somewhere. That might be something to consider for your truck, too.
Have you replaced your crankshaft sensor recently? If it's crapping out, that might be screwing up your fuel delivery.
I have cold start problems with mine, too. I think mine is because I need to replace the fuel injector seals. Wanted to do that while it was warm, but they're floating around my house.... somewhere. That might be something to consider for your truck, too.
I have not replaced the CPS, I have a spare in the glove box just in case, but to be honest I don't know where the CPS thats in the truck came from. I have a record of when it was done but no receipt. It was about 40K ago.
And yeah I know she needs injector o-rings, not sure if anything has ever been done to the injectors.
Well I still havent had a chance to check the GPR, but I'm pretty sure thats not my issue.
It was about 10 outside this morning, truck not plugged in, sat in the garage a few days, on the front tank, let it glow, gave it a 5 count after the light went out, started up no problem. Smoked pretty good but it started easy enough.
I think my issue is with that rear tank. Its very difficult to fill up, and I know there is an issue with the pickup around 1/4 tank. Maybe I'll pull that tank down this spring and refresh it. The front one is hard to fill but no where near as bad as the back one.
Starting off the rear tank seems to be the only issue with it, no driveability concerns to speak of, so I don't think its the switch valve. Any thoughts?
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