Help with cold start & stutter
#62
The tool to remove push in 'christmas tree' fittings should be available at most auto parts stores. It will look somewhat like a flat fork. You push the 'tines' between the metal of the mounting point and the piece being retained, and rock and twist to get the push pin to work its way out of the metal.
The front cover seal or the crankshaft seal are leaking. I believe both require removal of the front cover to replace. The junction of the front cover, engine block and oil pan is a 'three-way' meeting, so FoMoCo recommends a blurb of RTV sealant be put in to fill in any gap. Replacing either gasket or seal is a pretty time consuming job as the front of the engine has to get 'undressed'. No p/s pump, a/c compressor, tensioner, etc, and the cam and crank sensors. All those things have to be disconnected and moved out of the way. I don't know for sure if the a/c needs to be evacuated or can be held by wire out of the way.
makuloco should know for sure.
tom
The front cover seal or the crankshaft seal are leaking. I believe both require removal of the front cover to replace. The junction of the front cover, engine block and oil pan is a 'three-way' meeting, so FoMoCo recommends a blurb of RTV sealant be put in to fill in any gap. Replacing either gasket or seal is a pretty time consuming job as the front of the engine has to get 'undressed'. No p/s pump, a/c compressor, tensioner, etc, and the cam and crank sensors. All those things have to be disconnected and moved out of the way. I don't know for sure if the a/c needs to be evacuated or can be held by wire out of the way.
makuloco should know for sure.
tom
#63
Heck I was just going to cut those "christmas trees" off and use the zip ties to put them back together. Would I use that cat claw tool to get the last fuel injector connector off also, or is it just for prying off those christmas tree fasteners?
When you say front cover, do you mean the front valve cover?
When you say front cover, do you mean the front valve cover?
#64
Thanks for your reply! As far as the zip ties, do I need to look for a specific size or are they pretty much all the same? Should I be able to find that cats claw at walmart maybe or do I need to make a trip to the Home Depot? I will be taking another shot at this on saturday, yay!
#65
Heck I was just going to cut those "christmas trees" off and use the zip ties to put them back together. Would I use that cat claw tool to get the last fuel injector connector off also, or is it just for prying off those christmas tree fasteners?
When you say front cover, do you mean the front valve cover?
When you say front cover, do you mean the front valve cover?
#66
#67
#69
Success! It was near 50 degrees on Sunday so I gave it another shot. Since I had recently taken the upper intake off and had a good idea of getting the lower intake off, it took about 30 mins to get both the upper and lower off. I just used a flat head screwdriver to pull out those "Christmas tree" fasteners and basically broke off the retaining part of that last fuel injector connector. I knew I could just use the zip ties to fasten them back. All in all it took about 2hrs and 30 mins from start to finish, and a good part of that was cleaning the lower intakes and putting the zip ties on the fuel injector connectors (not much room to work in there). The engine fired right up once I had it back together, thanks a million guys!
Here is the full view of the engine compartment with the upper and lower off:
Here is a closeup of the lower intake ports, pretty dirty!
Here is a view of the condition the old gaskets. You can see how some are cracked and why the escape wouldn't start last time, because when I tried to re-seat it without cleaning it (because I couldn't access it) there was alot of dirt/funk between the gasket and the lower intake.
This is after I cleaned them up. I wasn't sure if I could use 409 or Mean Green or some sort of cleaner, so I just used a rag and water to rub and wipe as much of the funk as I could.
This is the Lower intake with the injector connectors zip-tied into place. Sorry its a little blurry.
This is an evap hose I think, it comes off the right side of the upper intake. It looks pretty bad, black coming off if you grab it. Where can I get a new one with the same connectors this ones has?
A cpl other quick questions if you don't mind: If I end up going back into my lower intake at some point, can I use some kind of cleaner to help me clean the funk off or just stick with water and a rag?
I have a couple lights on my dashboard that come on sometimes. Sometimes they stay on, sometimes they go out on their own and come back later. One of them is the light that looks like my radiator (antifreeze low?). When I look at the antifreeze reservoir, it is about an inch low. Can I just add any water to it, (tap, bottled etc) or does it have to be distilled water? Or do I need to pour antifreeze mix into it? Id rather not buy a big jug of antifreeze if I just need that little amount.
The other other light that comes on my dashboard is the one that shows the airbag. Sometimes it blinks, sometimes its on solid, sometimes its not on at all. I read somewhere it could just mean a loose wire. How can I check/fix that?
Here is the full view of the engine compartment with the upper and lower off:
Here is a closeup of the lower intake ports, pretty dirty!
Here is a view of the condition the old gaskets. You can see how some are cracked and why the escape wouldn't start last time, because when I tried to re-seat it without cleaning it (because I couldn't access it) there was alot of dirt/funk between the gasket and the lower intake.
This is after I cleaned them up. I wasn't sure if I could use 409 or Mean Green or some sort of cleaner, so I just used a rag and water to rub and wipe as much of the funk as I could.
This is the Lower intake with the injector connectors zip-tied into place. Sorry its a little blurry.
This is an evap hose I think, it comes off the right side of the upper intake. It looks pretty bad, black coming off if you grab it. Where can I get a new one with the same connectors this ones has?
A cpl other quick questions if you don't mind: If I end up going back into my lower intake at some point, can I use some kind of cleaner to help me clean the funk off or just stick with water and a rag?
I have a couple lights on my dashboard that come on sometimes. Sometimes they stay on, sometimes they go out on their own and come back later. One of them is the light that looks like my radiator (antifreeze low?). When I look at the antifreeze reservoir, it is about an inch low. Can I just add any water to it, (tap, bottled etc) or does it have to be distilled water? Or do I need to pour antifreeze mix into it? Id rather not buy a big jug of antifreeze if I just need that little amount.
The other other light that comes on my dashboard is the one that shows the airbag. Sometimes it blinks, sometimes its on solid, sometimes its not on at all. I read somewhere it could just mean a loose wire. How can I check/fix that?
#71
#72
There is a TSB on this year that addresses certain fault codes (but you'll need to pull the codes to see if it applies to you):
TSB # 04-26-12
FORD: 2001-2004 Escape
ISSUE:
Some 2001-2004 Escape vehicles may exhibit the air bag warning lamp illuminating intermittently with DTC B1994 (driver side, side mount air bag circuit open) or B1998 (passenger side, side mount air bag circuit open). This condition may be caused by a variation in the electrical continuity at connector C337 (passenger side) or C367 (driver side) at the body harness wire terminal crimp.
ACTION:
Install a replacement body harness pigtail connector in the affected circuit. Refer to the instruction sheet included in the connector repair kit.
PART NUMBER PART NAME
1L8Z-14A411-A Connector Repair Kit
FORD: 2001-2004 Escape
ISSUE:
Some 2001-2004 Escape vehicles may exhibit the air bag warning lamp illuminating intermittently with DTC B1994 (driver side, side mount air bag circuit open) or B1998 (passenger side, side mount air bag circuit open). This condition may be caused by a variation in the electrical continuity at connector C337 (passenger side) or C367 (driver side) at the body harness wire terminal crimp.
ACTION:
Install a replacement body harness pigtail connector in the affected circuit. Refer to the instruction sheet included in the connector repair kit.
PART NUMBER PART NAME
1L8Z-14A411-A Connector Repair Kit
#73
#74
Our 2004 has intermittent airbag light issues. Some times I'll be driving and it'll flash or come on solid. I'll turn off and restart it and it will go out until it wants to have a fit again, usually several weeks or months. But I've never tried to check for codes. I figured that would be a dealer thing and I'm not paying $100/hr to have it checked.