Question about pulling the auto locking hubs
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2013
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From: Raleigh
Question about pulling the auto locking hubs
Hey guys...
I just recently purchased a 2000 Excursion and had some questions up in another thread. After doing some diagnosing....I have a couple of questions about the auto locking hubs. The problem I have is that even with the vacuum line disconnected from the knuckle and no vacuum...the hubs won't unlock in auto/2wd. I confirmed that the knuckle and the hubs will hold vacuum when I hooked my vacuum pump up to it and it held vacuum (the fitting should be clear as I heard the hub making some sounds). I'm getting ready to pull the hubs to clean and re-grease them. My question is that being they are still locked....will it be any harder to pull them off the spindle and after disassembling them/cleaning them.....when I re-install them....will they be unlocked by default after putting them back on the spline as they have been pulled apart and reassembled?
Thanks guys.....the whole auto hub thing is still new to me as my Jeep doesn't have the hubs on the wheels.
Jim
I just recently purchased a 2000 Excursion and had some questions up in another thread. After doing some diagnosing....I have a couple of questions about the auto locking hubs. The problem I have is that even with the vacuum line disconnected from the knuckle and no vacuum...the hubs won't unlock in auto/2wd. I confirmed that the knuckle and the hubs will hold vacuum when I hooked my vacuum pump up to it and it held vacuum (the fitting should be clear as I heard the hub making some sounds). I'm getting ready to pull the hubs to clean and re-grease them. My question is that being they are still locked....will it be any harder to pull them off the spindle and after disassembling them/cleaning them.....when I re-install them....will they be unlocked by default after putting them back on the spline as they have been pulled apart and reassembled?
Thanks guys.....the whole auto hub thing is still new to me as my Jeep doesn't have the hubs on the wheels.
Jim
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Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,737
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From: Westfield, Indiana
Hey guys...
I just recently purchased a 2000 Excursion and had some questions up in another thread. After doing some diagnosing....I have a couple of questions about the auto locking hubs. The problem I have is that even with the vacuum line disconnected from the knuckle and no vacuum...the hubs won't unlock in auto/2wd. I confirmed that the knuckle and the hubs will hold vacuum when I hooked my vacuum pump up to it and it held vacuum (the fitting should be clear as I heard the hub making some sounds). I'm getting ready to pull the hubs to clean and re-grease them. My question is that being they are still locked....will it be any harder to pull them off the spindle and after disassembling them/cleaning them.....when I re-install them....will they be unlocked by default after putting them back on the spline as they have been pulled apart and reassembled?
Thanks guys.....the whole auto hub thing is still new to me as my Jeep doesn't have the hubs on the wheels.
Jim
I just recently purchased a 2000 Excursion and had some questions up in another thread. After doing some diagnosing....I have a couple of questions about the auto locking hubs. The problem I have is that even with the vacuum line disconnected from the knuckle and no vacuum...the hubs won't unlock in auto/2wd. I confirmed that the knuckle and the hubs will hold vacuum when I hooked my vacuum pump up to it and it held vacuum (the fitting should be clear as I heard the hub making some sounds). I'm getting ready to pull the hubs to clean and re-grease them. My question is that being they are still locked....will it be any harder to pull them off the spindle and after disassembling them/cleaning them.....when I re-install them....will they be unlocked by default after putting them back on the spline as they have been pulled apart and reassembled?
Thanks guys.....the whole auto hub thing is still new to me as my Jeep doesn't have the hubs on the wheels.
Jim
Mine has manual lockers on it now, but this write up by Guzzle is the same auto lock hubs that are on your truck. It should help you out.
Welcome to guzzle's 4x4 Autolock Hub Lubrication Maintenance Web Page
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From: Raleigh
Update-I pulled the hubs this morning (they were surprisingly easy to pull out. I figured they'd be stuck in there tight.....no tapping on the driver's side needed and only a few taps on the passenger side). I worked the little tan plastic piece that's attached to the diaphragm up and down a few times as well as worked the selector **** back and forth and I replaced the hubs (I'll pull them again when I have more time to actually break them down and clean/re-grease them). The hubs are now unlocked in auto and I can freely spin the u-joints on the wheels freely with my my hand. Now....my next question: with the hubs unlocked in auto....when spinning the wheel u-joints by hand.....should the front drive shaft spin as well or no? Right now....my front drive shaft doesn't turn when I rotate the wheel u-joints by hand. When the hubs were locked (either manually or when in auto and just stuck in the lock position)the front drive shaft would turn when the vehicle was moving....as it should have. I would have thought that the front drive shaft would have turned when I rotated the u-joints by hand.
Thanks, Jim
Thanks, Jim
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From: Media PA
Glad to hear that you got the stubborn hub unlocked, they may be fine once you get in there again to relube em. The front differntial is an open style unit so yeah, turning one U-joint won't spin the prop shaft, normal operation.
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From: Raleigh
Awesome....I'm relieved to hear that. I was thinking to myself "crap....shouldn't the drive shaft be turning?!" And I was trying to think what would have caused that. Next up....replacing the transmission fluid. Just got a coupon from Advance Auto Parts for $30 off a $100 purchase. Should almost cover the cost of 22qts of fluid : )
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From: Parker, CO
Make sure you do some reading on the transmission fluid change. There are some different methods for changing the fluid. If you replace any filters anywhere on the car, only use Motorcraft filters. So many people have been burned by the aftermarket filters.
Personally, I find that Amazon has the best prices (with my Prime membership and free shipping that is).
Personally, I find that Amazon has the best prices (with my Prime membership and free shipping that is).
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From: Media PA
Follow Mark K's (Member name "Mark Kovalsky") trans flush procedure, no filters are needed, just lots of fluid! Do the power steering flush while you're at it with the the ATF.
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From: Parker, CO
Good advice. Just make sure if you're searching for flushing instructions that you look up the right transmission. I don't which one you have but there are two based on the year of your X and diesel vs gasser.
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From: Media PA
The OP, kissfan79 has a 2000 V-10 EX so it's the 4R100 trans, flush procedure is fairly simple and effective, the 5 speed behind the 6.0's is a bit more involved.
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From: Parker, CO
The good news is that I peered under my X today (with the 5R110) and there's a drain plug, so I can at least do the fluid "replacement" in stages rather than mortgage the house to get the fluid flushed.
Back to the OP now.
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From: Raleigh
Thanks for the advice guys....I was originally going to do the drop the pan and then drain the torque converter method but I think I'm leaning toward Mark K's method. Now....for a more embarrassing question....how do I add a signature line under my post where I can list my Excursion and such? I looked in the profile section but I didn't see where I could add a signature.
Jim
Jim
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Joined: Mar 2009
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From: Mt. Shasta California
Yeah no kidding, involved is an understatement. More like virtually impossible without some serious heated flush equipment that apparently is usually only found at dealerships.
The good news is that I peered under my X today (with the 5R110) and there's a drain plug, so I can at least do the fluid "replacement" in stages rather than mortgage the house to get the fluid flushed.
Back to the OP now.
The good news is that I peered under my X today (with the 5R110) and there's a drain plug, so I can at least do the fluid "replacement" in stages rather than mortgage the house to get the fluid flushed.
Back to the OP now.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 6,180
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From: Georgia
Thanks for the advice guys....I was originally going to do the drop the pan and then drain the torque converter method but I think I'm leaning toward Mark K's method. Now....for a more embarrassing question....how do I add a signature line under my post where I can list my Excursion and such? I looked in the profile section but I didn't see where I could add a signature.
Jim
Jim
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From: Parker, CO
Oh I know. That's why you have to drain what you can, refill that amount, wait six months, and do it again, and again. In theory eventually you change out the oil.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2009
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From: Mt. Shasta California
That's a bad way to go, I would change the whole thing. Theres not much oil in the case.