Are you trying to say there are no numbers at all?
Anywhere?
Have you tried taking a piece of sandpaper to clean any rust or scunge off it?

The numbers are on there somewhere.
I usually brighten them up with chalk or something before trying to time my truck.

But with DSII ignition I really never set timing unless I've had the distributor out for some reason.

 

Well darn, I take it your firing order is correct. I was hoping it was something simple like a crossed wire.

Once you have verified the #1 cylinder is at top dead center you can paint a line on your damper (make a timing mark) in alignment with the timing pointer and then go from there.

Also, don't know how / where you determined your fuel pressure but 2 psi is very low for an electric fuel pump system. IIRC I think they're supposed to be closer to 8 psi.

However, I'm still guessing you've got some sort of miss-fire issue. Timing is off or some kind of wiring or component issue. Ignition module, coil, distributor pickup...maybe cracked cap but I think you said you'd already replaced it.

Can't say if the wiring colors will be the same as yours on this DSII diagram, and I know my wiring is slightly different in that I don't have the bypass wire running from the starter relay to the coil, but maybe it will give you some ideas on double checking your ignition system wiring and connections.

 

I checked for tdc #1 and it does line up to the 0 mark on the harmonic balancer (I found the numbers )

Thank you for posting that diagram I have been looking for something like that. There are 3 other ignition modules in the truck. I have always been suspicious of why he was replacing it so much.

pretty much all the wires under the hood are wrapped in electrical tape, some sat on top of the intake manifold and began to melt.

 

I believe I figured out what the problem is. The timing advances way too much
when I throttle up.I disconnected the vacuum advance and plugged it and it still does the same. I dont know how much it advances, but it is past the numbers on the balancer.

I have re-verified that the timing marks are correct and have set the idle and timing according to the sticker above the radiator.

Just to see, I put in one of the used ignition modules that was with the truck and started it up. I gave it gas all the way to 4000rpm and the was no miss or stumble, but then when i tried it again it went back to same problem. I'm not sure if the module would cause the advance, but I figured I would ask you guys before I spent money.

 

These things use a lot of advance.
It's not uncommon for it to be completely off the marks, vacuum or not, with the rpm's up.

The module does nothing to control ignition timing (except cranking retard)
Everything is handled by the distributor.

 

Ok I guess thats not the problem. I dont know what it could be

 

When turning the engine by hand I notice there is some slack or play. I can turn say 20* before the piston would start to move, or position of the rotor. Is this normal? I hadn't noticed this before but I am really just trying to figure this thing out.

 

That's not right at all.
Go back to post #5.
Is there really any way for there to be only 10,000 miles on that timing chain?

 

check your egr valve or get rid of the egr system are you leaving carbon spot where your tail pipe is or notice black smoke with white smoke??

 

My 351 uses the 1-3 firing order. I may just be tired but something sounds back asswards there. Reg 302's use the 1-5. 302 H.O and 351 use the 1-3 firing order.

Edit: didn't realize it's on the 3rd page when I wrote that. Carry on.

 

The PO said 10k but maybe he had only put 10k himself, and had purchased it used and thrown it in. Am I going to have to replace the timing chain?


The egr is removed from this truck, but exhaust does leave a black patch underneath where I park

 

If you have 20* of crankshaft rotation before the rotor moves, the timing set is shot.
This would explain why it is spitting back through the intake (and why I asked two pages ago)
Factory nylon cam gears are good for about 60k IME.

Do a little more diagnosis before you go tearing into the front of the engine.

 

Should the crankshaft move at all without the rotor moving? What else can I do to diagnose the timing chain.

 

No, it should not. Depending on which engine, there's a certain amount of timing slack allowed. Usually the tolerance is between 3* and 5* of timing slop. Your timing set is shot. I don't know how it's even running like that. I pulled apart an FE with about 8* of timing slop and it barely ran.

 

I just realized you said in post #37 "I can turn say 20* before the piston would start to move, or the position of the rotor"

I'm sorry, if I misunderstood.
The piston is connected directly to the crankshaft.
You are talking about turning the crankshaft bolt with a breaker bar or similar, correct?
How are you determining piston movement?