55' stepside box value?
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 369
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55' stepside box value?
Here in Illinois, rust free boxes are not easy to come by. I need one, and found a local fellow with one. This is a fellow who I like and respect, but I want to make sure I pay a reasonable price, since I have no idea. Box and rear fenders,,,,wood floor gone. $500
No significant dents nor rust. Set up for spare tire. Any guidance?
No significant dents nor rust. Set up for spare tire. Any guidance?
FTE Legend
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 283,933
Likes: 8,374
From: northwestern Ontario
Pickup Beds
You can search the different vendors to get an idea of what a replacement would cost then decide what you think is fair value, you have to consider transport too. I posted this link to give an idea of what a new one costs but not clear as to what is all included. $ 500 sounds fairly reasonable, is that what he's asking or what you are considering offering?
You can search the different vendors to get an idea of what a replacement would cost then decide what you think is fair value, you have to consider transport too. I posted this link to give an idea of what a new one costs but not clear as to what is all included. $ 500 sounds fairly reasonable, is that what he's asking or what you are considering offering?
FTE Legend
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 283,933
Likes: 8,374
From: northwestern Ontario
Can always ask if he's willing to negotiate. Are you comfortable with the asking price is what you have to decide and have you checked it over real good to make sure what you really are getting?
Phantom of the Phorum
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 5,472
Likes: 1,696
From: Kentucky
In my opinion, if the fenders are good that's not a bad price.
As far as new beds go, you can get them as low as $1100-1200. That price includes everything except the fenders. The fenders can be very pricey, new or used.
As far as new beds go, you can get them as low as $1100-1200. That price includes everything except the fenders. The fenders can be very pricey, new or used.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 8,095
Likes: 655
From: Brentwood, TN
Here in SoCal where rust is not an issue, I still pass on most all OEM boxes...the aftermarket beds are just too nice and my time is too valuable to spend on resurrecting old tin. Take a look at Mar-K, their beds are top notch and built to OEM specs...the sheetmetal is perfectly flat, the welds flush, and the metal is zinc coated to add another level of corrosion resistance. Mar-K has regular sales where they offer their complete bed kits along with free shipping...tough to beat that.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2011
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From: Clitherall, MN.
Maybe you need to look at the big picture. How much time and money will it take to get it ready for paint?My time is worth somethin',given its not worth a whole lot.But if you spend 700 bucks gettin' it ready,youl'd be better off buyin' a new one. Just my 2cents.
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Brett Foote
FTE Legend
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: northwestern Ontario
Like Charlie suggests I'd go with a new reproduction which I'll be doing when I get to that point on my pickup just for the time saved and a better looking box overall but I don't have plans on using it as it was in the day, it all depends on how you intend to use your truck.
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Senior User
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It isn't going to be a show truck. We won't spend $700 getting it ready for paint, or maybe anything with our own labor into it. I totally understand what you are saying, but this isn't that kind of project.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2012
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From: Central Oregon
I am in the same budget as you. My time is free, so I am willing in doing the work to save the $$ for something I can't do.
$500 sounds OK if it is in good shape. Just look at the fender condition (repairable within your skill level or not) and the bed sides (hard to make long/straight/flat panels look correct if you don't do body work for a living). Consider what your final goal is (daily driver vs. show truck), you skill level, and your budget if you are farming out the body work.
$500 sounds OK if it is in good shape. Just look at the fender condition (repairable within your skill level or not) and the bed sides (hard to make long/straight/flat panels look correct if you don't do body work for a living). Consider what your final goal is (daily driver vs. show truck), you skill level, and your budget if you are farming out the body work.
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 3,793
Likes: 19
From: Austin
Hey Wolf,
Hmmm..
Personally I chose to stick with our original 1950 bed & repair it - We had already replaced all the fenders with fiberglass. If I bought all new parts everywhere the truck begins to seem more like a kit car - so I stuck with a 1950 bed & put a lot work into it.
Steel fenders can get crazy expensive so to me the $500 looks like a screaming deal & you can make the bed from Home Depot wood if you just want a nice structurally sound bed. Go for it. I like the idea of using an existing 1955 bed - it just sounds right.
Ben in Austin
1950 F1
Hmmm..
Personally I chose to stick with our original 1950 bed & repair it - We had already replaced all the fenders with fiberglass. If I bought all new parts everywhere the truck begins to seem more like a kit car - so I stuck with a 1950 bed & put a lot work into it.
Steel fenders can get crazy expensive so to me the $500 looks like a screaming deal & you can make the bed from Home Depot wood if you just want a nice structurally sound bed. Go for it. I like the idea of using an existing 1955 bed - it just sounds right.
Ben in Austin
1950 F1
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
A lot of the value depend on if you want the fender with the spare recess or not. They don't have a great resale value, the recess can be removed, but it requires a complex compound curved patch, a very expensive proposition if you don't have the needed skills to DIY.
One caveat: make sure this bed is the size you want. Most side mount spares were found on the F250 and larger models which also have a larger bed (6' long vs 8', and wider as well) and larger wheel openings in the fenders. Side mount spares were available as an extra cost option on the F100. The frame was longer on the F250 and up models (110" WB on the F100, 118" WB on the F250 +) so the fenders will not end up in the right place if a 250 bed is installed on an F100 frame. The smaller bed is in far greater demand, so the larger bed is not worth near as much. Cutting the 8' bed down to a 6' dimensions is not realistic.
One caveat: make sure this bed is the size you want. Most side mount spares were found on the F250 and larger models which also have a larger bed (6' long vs 8', and wider as well) and larger wheel openings in the fenders. Side mount spares were available as an extra cost option on the F100. The frame was longer on the F250 and up models (110" WB on the F100, 118" WB on the F250 +) so the fenders will not end up in the right place if a 250 bed is installed on an F100 frame. The smaller bed is in far greater demand, so the larger bed is not worth near as much. Cutting the 8' bed down to a 6' dimensions is not realistic.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 410
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From: Texas
One last thing to add, make sure the bed is off a 53-56, starting in 57 which also had the side spare tire holder, the location of the fenders are different meaning they are about an inch or so higher and they will not line up with the running boards. Visually they look exactly the same except the fenders are higher.