The difference between the bolt diameter and the frame mount cast "pillow block" bore diameter is probably not an issue if using the factory designed cross axis ball joint with a pressed in bolt through the metal core of the joint.

Since you have a press, and already pressed the old parts out, then for not much more than an rubber or polyurethane kit, you can obtain replacement cross axis ball joints from SACHS (think ZF transmissions) that are identical to the 2001 updated redesign from Ford, and save money by reusing your link bars.








This isn't a cost effective option for everyone, but since you have a press, it is an option for you. I recall pricing out the SACHS components on one of those popular online parts supplier sites, found the prices reasonable and comparative to the Energy aftermarket product, and would have gone the SACHS route had I not found a new endlink set from Ford for even cheaper (auction).

The Ford replacement endlinks come with the upper bolt pre pressed into place. As I recall, the interference fit is at the head, but not throughout the shank of the bolt. I believe it might be a stretch bolt, where the shank has a purposely reduced diameter (equivalent to the root diameter of the bolt) so that the bolt will more easily stretch to maintain tension when torqued to specification.

All this is to say that with factory parts, the diameter differences you may observe between the bore diameter of the pillow block and the root diameter of the factory bolt may be by design.

Now, should you deviate from that design in any way, such as mounting the pillow block upside down so that it no longer has the buttressing of the frame web, or if you use elastomeric bushings instead of a metal cross axis joint, then the diameter differences might be a factor. You may then need an interference fit between the bolt shank and the inner diameter of the aftermarket elastomeric bushings as well as the pillow block.

However, I recall that tim150's swaybar endlink kit from Energy came with cylindrical metal inserts that prevented deformation of the elastomeric bushings from torque crush. So it all depends on what kit you get. That's why I like sticking with factory stuff... I don't have to redesign all the things I wouldn't have thought of.

 

Sounds like a bunch of extra work and worry to me. My complete Dorman end links were $21 each and took very little time to install and the quality looks good and they work very well. Also, yes that bolt can be an issue because they made it too small in the middle so it would slide into the bushing (where it is stepped up) and goes easily into the pillow block .......way too easy.

Your post was very good though.

 

I have 3 milk crates full of odd and end pieces of heavy scrap steel that I keep below my press just for jobs like this. I must say though, I do not have a thick slab of a press plate with a 2" hole drilled in it!

 

Just a follow up here. Installed the new links, and truck does drive like new again. Good call ExV10 on those Dorman links.

 

I have the Energy master kit and was looking to install the end link bushings this past weekend. I was kind of surprised when I investigated because the passenger side bolt is only about a inch from the exhaust downpipe on my 2002 F250 5.4L 4x4.

The pics above show a C-channel frame but mine is definitely a box frame and I have no pillow block, the bolt goes completely through the frame rail. That's a long bolt to try to clear that exhaust pipe.

I have the SPD Y-pipe and Gibson shorty headers to the downpipe placement should be factory.

Because of this I chose to not proceed with the install and was recommended to install the complete Moog end links but they are something like $68/side. Ouch.

If I can get complete endlinks for $21/each I will jump on that. However, I will still have the clearance issue on the right side...

Wish I would have taken a photo so I could show you but it's 1-1.5" away and pretty well centered on the downpipe. Anyone address this issue before?

 

I would have gotten high quality Dorman complete links for $42 shipped (for both) and the bolt arrangement is probably because it was or is lifted. I got in trouble for even mentioning it but it's the way to go.

 

I didn't get the Energy kit for the end link bushings, I got a good deal on the whole kit so I have no problem getting something else. I see those Dormans on Rock Auto for under $16 right now but don't know if there is shipping.

The truck has no lift and has original end links. I wondered if I were to torch the head off the bolt and pull it through the frame could I not simply insert the new bolt (assuming one comes with the kid) from the outside of the frame inward. Basically putting the bolt in backward. Looks like it would work just fine.

How long have you had those Dormans? Greaseable?

 

They come with the bolt and I would go back to the frame anchor setup if it's not lifted. I don't like greasable ones and the Dormans are tight with no room for grease. It's not like they are spinning 1000 rpms. Mine are 3 years old and I am sure they will last as long as I have the truck. When I knocked the elaborate post by Y2K everyone freaked out but what good is all that info if it is the hard way to go? I think they even put it in the Tech Folder. Greasable ones only require more grease, attract grime, and are not needed.

 

It would be interesting to see a few pics of what you mean by your frame being different where the sway bar end links meet the frame.

The front of my frame is boxed also.

BUT, the box transitions to the C channel you see in the pics above, just a few inches forward of the sway bar end link pillow block.

Ford built the Super Duty front frame section to be serviceable without replacing the entire frame in the event of a frontal collision. The front sway bar end links bolt to the frame right at the severable point, where the front frame can be de-riveted away and replaced. This is also the transition point between boxed front section and C channel rear section.

It would be nice to see some of your pictures to in order to better understand what you are dealing with concerning that upper bolt.

 

Not "they" Brent, me. I did.

And it wasn't in the Super Duty tech folder, I put it in the Excursion tech folder, just for the sake of clarity.

Y2KW57 posted good information. And I not only put it in the tech folder, I repped him for adding to the FTE knowledge base.

I understand you don't agree with it being added to the tech folder, based on the smiley face you posted along with your statement, and you're entitled to your opinion. I happen to disagree with it.

As you know Brent, there's more than one way to skin a cat. So I'd be more than happy to add your thread to the folder too, if you'd consider making a "how-to" using the Dorman replacements.

I've already added a few of your threads to the folder, and having another option for the same task is always a good thing.

Stewart

 

Love the info. I need to do mine as they are shot.

 

I contacted my buddy and he indicated it does have the pillow block. At least that makes it easier to remove. Once I get under there to fix it, I can take some pics of the progress.

 

Are these the good ones?! I need to do her Ex, 02 4x4, and was looking at these,,,
Thanks
Joe
http://www.ebay.com/itm/F-Super-D-Sway-Bar-Link-Front-Excursion-F-250-F-350-F-450-4WD-K80274-K80273-/321282138301?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2005%7CMake%3AFord%7CModel%3AExcursion&hash=item4acde860bd&vxp=mtr

 

Carry on with your work... pics aren't necessary now that we know that there is no difference in frames as you once thought. The pics were for us to learn about something that you described which sounded highly unusual.

I know what a PIA it is, and how time consuming it is, to stop and take pictures along the way when trying to get a job done. I just wanted to see what you were talking about earlier, regarding the boxed frame. All of our frames are boxed up front, but they all transition to formed channels at the frame collision repair joint where the upper eyelet of the front sway bar end link is anchored.

 

No idea about the quality of those links. I do recall those K80273 and K80274 part numbers when I did days and days of research on all of the available solutions to replace front sway bar bushings alone, and front sway bar endlinks in their entirety, which was to be "Part II" of my lengthy part number post reference earlier. But a lack of reader interest shifted my priorities for finishing the posting part of the project, and since that time I've lost all my notes in the research.

I do remember those part numbers though. They are remarketed under more than one brand name as I recall. I traced out each aftermarket brand until I found a coalescence of part numbers, so as to know when the same part is sold for more under one brand than the other.

Sometimes, more traditional brand names are leveraged to fool people into believing they are receiving a higher quality part, when in reality it was made in the same overseas factory that the cheaper branded part was produced in. However, sometimes there is a difference in quality. Sometimes they are made in different plants, with different production standards. In the case of the endlinks on eBay, I just don't know.

Sometimes, I have found some eBay sellers who list the part number of the name brand part manufacturer, and state, truly, that the part they are selling is new. This can lead one to believe that they are getting a new XYZ. But in reality, they are getting a new part that is functionally or dimensionally equivalent to an XYZ, but not necessarily a genuine XYZ.