Hey guys, sort of off topic but I've just moved and have to build a new work bench in my new garage (2-car, about 25' wide, stairs conveniently in the middle ).

So... looking for ideas, Google hasn't been too helpful and I'm gonna tackle it this weekend now that the snow is here.

- Briz

 

Get yourself four 12' long 2x4's (two for each side) and about 6 or 8 short economy studs. Build the frame of the work-top in the same manner as framing a wall with the 2x4's. Bolt the frame to the wall with lots of big screws or lag bolts, then double up the 2x4's for the legs and level it. Then cut a piece of plywood to fit the top, nail it down with some small nails, and you're done.

 

search craigslist for an old kitchen counter top. Use the cabinets too if you can find them.

I built my workbench myself years ago & wish I had goin with an old counter.

 

I got a butcher block work bench from Costco and the got three small Craftsman roll away tool cabinets that were on sale to go under the bench. This gives me plenty of tool storage and the cabinets will roll out for easy cleaning under the bench.

 

I do the same and add a piece of 3/16" tempered masonite on top of the plywood. It is real tough, cleans easy. I've been tempted to buy some laminate to glue on it (formica).

I also add a big wide shelf underneath, same size. I like worktops at 44" - 46", closer to my eyes that way.

 

If you want over kill, here is whats in my dads shop. That top is solid steel. Its about 7'x 5'. The frame is made of 1inch thick i beams.

 

like Ross mentioned... pay attention to the height... what is waist high for a 5'6" guy is way low for a guy 6'2"... and leaves him bending over too much... build it for Your comfort... forget what the magazines say.

Last one I built was in a 12x16 shop building, and I built it across the 12' side wall to wall... used 2x6 front and back across from wall to wall then 2x4 supports every 2' then decked it with 2x6s screwed down tight to the 2x4.. it would hold a tank... and no legs in the way. topped it later with hardboard (masonite) and it was perfect.. Also consider if you're going to sit at the bench sometimes... plan your underbench storage with a knee hole and a place to slide the stool under it...

Might want to consider Simson Strong Tie Simpson Strong-Tie®

they make all kinds of plates and angle braces and such for contractors... just about any configuiration you can imagine for tieing wood together... I think they even have some plans on the site for benchs and shelving using their stuff...

Think about electrical and consider where you want plugs etc... it's easier to do when building than after... a couple on the front of the bench are great for drop lights and vacs... a multi strip across the back wall is perfect for test equipment, extra lights,etc.

Consider cleaning.. under and around it... and put your shelves high enough to get a broom under it or seal the toe plate to the floor... as a side note... think about the front plate and the toe plate... an excellent place to put a hidey hole for valuables, guns, money... make a hidden drop down drawer under the bench top that comes down when you release a hidden catch

before I'd build drawers or shelves, I'd watch Sears and such for those neat 4 drawer cabinets... with or without wheels they make cheap medium duty drawer units.. like these


usually garage lighting is enough to get you in the house without tripping over something and breaking a leg... not great for bench work....put some lights BRIGHT LIGHTS about 4' above the bench... your eyes will appreciate it...

if the walls are not painted.... at least paint around the bench area white... good reflected light...

just some ideas

later
john

 

My workbench is about what Doc described, thirty feet along one side of the shop. Mine is securely fastened to the 6 X 6 vertical support posts so my vice is secure. A metal top of any kind is so easy to keep clean. That said, I can not see half of my bench top.

 

LOL, during a project, definitely the case!

Not a workbench per se, but I've found this desk very useful. Got it for $10 at a garage sale, it's gov't surplus, US Made and very strong. Good place to sit and make lists, read the manual, have a cup of joe...

Looking at the workbench in the background reminds me -- put up pegboard!

 

Go to the Architectural clearing house on 120th st. south of the airport and just browse around .It's amazing what you can find . Old solid core wood doors make great bench tops and they are cheap .

 

I use wood tops. With steel if you smack something with a hammer it'll bounce right back at you, with wood the impact get transferred into the work piece. I double the plywood for the top, 2 layers of 3/4 plywood to make it solid. For asthetics i covered some of mine with 1/8th thick commercial grade lineoleum (off white and blackish checkerboard pattern) and finished the edges with 1 1/2" X 1/8th thick aluminum angle.
My benches are about 20years old and still look good although carb cleaner will eat the glue on the tiles and a couple are loose.
I don't know how to post pics, but i've probably got 30' of benches.

 

Good point! Got to have peg board. I got several 4x4 x1/4 pieces at a store that was closing. I have 3 in my garage, 2 in the basement and 1 in the cellar way. My space is limited in my garage. My workbench is about 20 feet long. It is made from 2x12's, side by side. It also has the electrical strip as seen in John Niolon's picture of his bench.

 

I used two 3/4 inch pieces of plywood for a top and had a scrap piece of laminate to cover the top. It makes clean up very easy since the surface isn't as porous. Dittos on light and outlets. Suspended a shop light above the bench and put in a row of outlet strip above and behind the bench. I have a vise mounted on the bench which is nice but need another one I can use to hold stuff while I pound it. Right now that tends to shake the bench more than I like. Good luck.

 

I like 6x6 posts on the front corners for pound on , and my welding bench is all of steel with a plate top .

 

That's a good point. Plus if you cut it off flush with the underside of your worktop, it gives you a good anchor for the lag bolts used in mounting your vice on the corner.