89 F-350 No Start
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89 F-350 No Start
So problem is as stated in the title, no start condition. I get the normal key-on noises but nothing at start. I do not get 12v to the starter solenoid with the key. If I supply 12V directly to the solenoid (jump battery to ign wire on solenoid) with the key in the on position, the solenoid works as it should and engine fires up. So to me it's one of two things. Dead ignition or dead neutral safety. Seeing that the truck does leak on occasion my best guess is NSS. But before I get under there and swap it are there any fuses that could also cause this problem? Thanks in advance. 
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2013
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i'm surprised that no one has suggested it, but i would be checking the ignition switch (mounted under the dash on the top of the steering column). if you loosen the bolts there is a fair bit of up-and-down adjustment. if you move the switch upwards a bit that might do the trick. you will have to lower the steering column for this (no big deal). before moving the switch, though, check that the rod which operates it it moving up and down in response the the movement of the key.
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
that was the next suggestion.
do you feel spring resistance when you turn the key to start, and does it return to run on it's own?
if not the ignition actuator is probable broke.
do you feel spring resistance when you turn the key to start, and does it return to run on it's own?
if not the ignition actuator is probable broke.
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Yes, everything feels normal, just no crank/no start. I'm just going to replace the NSS because it'll be easy. Some people say to leave the truck in neutral, some say park, is there really a "proper" way to replace that sensor? Any helpful hints?
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2013
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sir ... you are in good hands with tjc transport. if you wanna buy a NSS then go for it, but he can steer you through this in an orderly manner (much better than i can).
my money is still on the ignition switch though ...
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my money is still on the ignition switch though ...
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i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,548
Likes: 5,589
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
the recommend way to install the NSS as per the factory service manual is in neutral.
one other way to test is to remove the ignition switch from the column and using a screwdriver to move the switch slider see if it starts. if it does, it is in the column. if it does not, it is the NSS.
i would hate to see you spend money on a NSS to find that is not the problem.
one other way to test is to remove the ignition switch from the column and using a screwdriver to move the switch slider see if it starts. if it does, it is in the column. if it does not, it is the NSS.
i would hate to see you spend money on a NSS to find that is not the problem.
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Information that I left out, which is probably very relevant, is that last winter the trans overheated and boiled over. After the truck cooled it would not start. This is what leads me to NSS over the ignition.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Charles Town, W bygod Va
I doubt the trans overheating last year caused a problem with the nss now. It is pretty easy to test a couple things. When you turn the key to start you should have power to one of the red and blue wires at the nss. If so the ign switch is ok. If you jump the two red and blue wires at the nss and it starts then the nss is bad.
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I doubt the trans overheating last year caused a problem with the nss now. It is pretty easy to test a couple things. When you turn the key to start you should have power to one of the red and blue wires at the nss. If so the ign switch is ok. If you jump the two red and blue wires at the nss and it starts then the nss is bad.
Post Fiend
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From: Charles Town, W bygod Va
I'm pretty sure on the wire colors, but it may be different. I think there will be a total of 4 wires, assuming c6, not e4od. Two are for reverse lights and the other are for the nss. When I had trouble with the nss on my 86 I just spliced the two red blue wires together so it will start with the shifter in any position.
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I'm pretty sure on the wire colors, but it may be different. I think there will be a total of 4 wires, assuming c6, not e4od. Two are for reverse lights and the other are for the nss. When I had trouble with the nss on my 86 I just spliced the two red blue wires together so it will start with the shifter in any position.
Also now that you mention it I don't have reverse lights either. If those other two wires do in fact feed the reverse I think we've found the culprit.
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Alright so I got under the truck tonight and the results weren't what I expected. I pulled the plug off the NSS and tested each wire for voltage in the on and start positions. 3 wires had no voltage in either position. 1 wire had 12v at key-on but 0v at start. Does this make sense to anyone? Seems backwards to me.....