no spark
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no spark
hello, I am 55 and work in commercial air conditioning. I have done some small repair on cars. Bought this truck 2yrs ago, and now lost spark.
1986 150 st6 300 1bar duralast ignition on fender.
I was hoping for some help on understand how this works and how to test. I know that there is a pickup coil in the vac distributor, that tells ignition when to energize the coil. It looks like to me that the ignition energizes the coil by grounding the tach green wire six times the rpm frequency. If so, then if I apply 12+ volts to bat on the coil, and very quickly ground tach on the coil i should get out a high voltage output from the coil to the coil wire. Is this correct?
thx
1986 150 st6 300 1bar duralast ignition on fender.
I was hoping for some help on understand how this works and how to test. I know that there is a pickup coil in the vac distributor, that tells ignition when to energize the coil. It looks like to me that the ignition energizes the coil by grounding the tach green wire six times the rpm frequency. If so, then if I apply 12+ volts to bat on the coil, and very quickly ground tach on the coil i should get out a high voltage output from the coil to the coil wire. Is this correct?
thx
Elder User
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 978
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From: Covington VA
If it worked fine and then just quit starting id guess ignition module. Gray box mounted on distributor. Thats how mine behaved and the culprit. No warning, just came out one morning and wouldnt catch. Mine is a stock 4x4, same set up as yours. Except im not sure about a duralast box on fender. If your ignition has swapped the disreguard my comment .
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 39
From: EXTREME southwest CT
Jayz,
He has vacuum advance on the distributor.
I'm pretty sure the truck has been converted to DSII.
Badignition,
Welcome to the forum.
It is easier than that.
It works by breaking the green path to ground.
If green is connected to ground, simply removing 12+ to the red wire will collapse the primary field and send spark from the secondary (center tower) terminal.
What are you trying to prove by this?
He has vacuum advance on the distributor.
I'm pretty sure the truck has been converted to DSII.
Badignition,
Welcome to the forum.
It is easier than that.
It works by breaking the green path to ground.
If green is connected to ground, simply removing 12+ to the red wire will collapse the primary field and send spark from the secondary (center tower) terminal.
What are you trying to prove by this?
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,990
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From: Virginia
hello, I am 55 and work in commercial air conditioning. I have done some small repair on cars. Bought this truck 2yrs ago, and now lost spark.
1986 150 st6 300 1bar duralast ignition on fender.
I was hoping for some help on understand how this works and how to test. I know that there is a pickup coil in the vac distributor, that tells ignition when to energize the coil. It looks like to me that the ignition energizes the coil by grounding the tach green wire six times the rpm frequency. If so, then if I apply 12+ volts to bat on the coil, and very quickly ground tach on the coil i should get out a high voltage output from the coil to the coil wire. Is this correct?
thx
1986 150 st6 300 1bar duralast ignition on fender.
I was hoping for some help on understand how this works and how to test. I know that there is a pickup coil in the vac distributor, that tells ignition when to energize the coil. It looks like to me that the ignition energizes the coil by grounding the tach green wire six times the rpm frequency. If so, then if I apply 12+ volts to bat on the coil, and very quickly ground tach on the coil i should get out a high voltage output from the coil to the coil wire. Is this correct?
thx
So if you did experiment with it, you could see if there was spark coming out of the coil. But a quicker easier way is to get a testlight and put the clip on a good ground, and then poke the wire for the tach or negative coming out of the coil.
While you poke the wire, get someone to crank the engine. The light should blink. If it stays on all the time, that means the ignition box is not grounding and ungrounding the coil(that's it's job). If the testlight is not on at all, then move over to the + side of the coil and verify the testlight lights up solid with the key in start and run, to make sure you are getting power to the coil.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 373
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From: Marlborough, CT
Start simple. Check connections. Coil wire ok? Borrow one from a plug and run it coil to distributor center. Cap and rotor good? These are things more apt to go bad than a module. Coil good? ~Bill
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Its not a two stroke, himm
Thx frank, LOL,
You are right frank, ops my mistake, four strokes have two revolutions.
So the negative become positive on the coil when the ignition is not grounding the green wire. Well it’s not grounding the green, light is on all the time. I like the way you think.
You are right frank, ops my mistake, four strokes have two revolutions.
So the negative become positive on the coil when the ignition is not grounding the green wire. Well it’s not grounding the green, light is on all the time. I like the way you think.
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check -check- and checked
Thx Bill,
Yes I did that before I posted. Also the ignition has 12 volts power to it when key is on.
Yes I did that before I posted. Also the ignition has 12 volts power to it when key is on.
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pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 39
From: EXTREME southwest CT
The pickup coil in the distributor should read 450-900 ohms across the orange and purple wires of the distributor plug.
Check that the black wire has zero (or near zero) ohms to the block
Check that the black wire has zero (or near zero) ohms to the block
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ballast resistor?
Hi,
Ardwrkntrk thx for the help, I found the pickup coil ok.
I replace ignition module and it fried. Looked in a ford manual and found that the coil has a short and this used to have a TFI. Now I know why ardwrkntrk said bad. Put a new coil and module in and now it runs. I am looking at the ford electrical diagram and it looks like the ignition module is built into the computer but they put the amplifier on the distributor. Well anyways I was wondering if anyone knows if this is a two voltage coil input for start and run?
It’s a square stock coil.
Ardwrkntrk thx for the help, I found the pickup coil ok.
I replace ignition module and it fried. Looked in a ford manual and found that the coil has a short and this used to have a TFI. Now I know why ardwrkntrk said bad. Put a new coil and module in and now it runs. I am looking at the ford electrical diagram and it looks like the ignition module is built into the computer but they put the amplifier on the distributor. Well anyways I was wondering if anyone knows if this is a two voltage coil input for start and run?
It’s a square stock coil.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 39
From: EXTREME southwest CT
Square (TFI) coil does not work well with a DSII module and distributor.
Sounds like someone did half (2/3???) of a DSII swap.
I think if you don't get the round canister coil and 'horseshoe' connector you will continue to burn up ignition components.
The internal resistance (ohms) of that coil is not compatible with the Duraspark components.
Sounds like someone did half (2/3???) of a DSII swap.
I think if you don't get the round canister coil and 'horseshoe' connector you will continue to burn up ignition components.
The internal resistance (ohms) of that coil is not compatible with the Duraspark components.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 39
From: EXTREME southwest CT
I see I didn't really address your question. " I was wondering if anyone knows if this is a two voltage coil input for start and run?"
There should be a resistor wire built into the trucks harness.
During these years most pickups got a universal cab harness and different engine harnesses depending on options.
If your DSII module is plugged into the harness (as opposed to hacked/spliced)
You should see 12 V in start and ~7-8V in run with the DSII coil connected
If you are just testing the leads to the distributor there will not be enough load for the resistor to be apparent.
Some of these links and diagrams may help.
http://webpages.charter.net/1bad6t/d...pplication.jpg
There should be a resistor wire built into the trucks harness.
During these years most pickups got a universal cab harness and different engine harnesses depending on options.
If your DSII module is plugged into the harness (as opposed to hacked/spliced)
You should see 12 V in start and ~7-8V in run with the DSII coil connected
If you are just testing the leads to the distributor there will not be enough load for the resistor to be apparent.
Some of these links and diagrams may help.
http://webpages.charter.net/1bad6t/d...pplication.jpg
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Truck for sale
Hi,
I power the coil and jumping out the ignition green to ground, key in run, for a few seconds. On Coil voltage dropped to nine point four. Does anyone know of a twelve volt coil number that will work with my ignition? Just a plan round black coil.
thx
I power the coil and jumping out the ignition green to ground, key in run, for a few seconds. On Coil voltage dropped to nine point four. Does anyone know of a twelve volt coil number that will work with my ignition? Just a plan round black coil.
thx
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,990
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From: Virginia
Autozone part number C832G Is the duraspark II coil for your truck and many others with this ignition. You will also have to buy the connector for the coil, part number 252. The proper coil does not have threaded studs for the connection, so you need this connector.
Keep taking the boxes back, I assume they will replace them under warranty, but if you can't seem to get a good one, see if a junkyard around you has a motorcraft one. And make sure you are getting the correct box with the blue plastic connector. I am worried you are not getting the correct box if you cannot get the correct coil. You can't tell them your truck's engine and expect them to give the correct parts since it's been converted.
Keep taking the boxes back, I assume they will replace them under warranty, but if you can't seem to get a good one, see if a junkyard around you has a motorcraft one. And make sure you are getting the correct box with the blue plastic connector. I am worried you are not getting the correct box if you cannot get the correct coil. You can't tell them your truck's engine and expect them to give the correct parts since it's been converted.