<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <wontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--> Don’t know if anyone has any experience with Motive Products brake system bleeder but it is actually a very easy and neat tool to use. Fill it with brake fluid, and it pushed fluid through your brake system while you crack each fitting to bleed air and replace fluid. Worked like a champ on a Mustang I just sold.

I replaced all the rubber lines on my 76 F250 due to a spongy pedal and utilized the brake bleeder again. This time, it didn’t work! It kept the master cylinder full and pressurized but on one rear cylinder and one front caliper I had to pump the brake pedal to get anything out and the other 2 I got no fluid out of!

The brakes basically have the same effects as last time, spongy but stop the truck. Any ideas what my issue is? I figured maybe there is dirt in the system but I cannot figure out why there is no fluid coming out of those two areas but yet still apply function.

Proportioning valve issues?

Maybe its time to replace calipers, cylinders, and master cylinder?
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I can't help you with the issue, but if you do decide to get new brake stuff, Rockauto has a ton of brake stuff on wholesale closeout. I just got new shoes, wheel cylinders, and spring kit for less than $17.

 

Have you pulled the bleeders completely out to see if they are blocked?
With the bleeders out try bleeding the brakes to see if you get fluid then.

 

I have a Motive Products bleeder. It works quite well for flushing, but for some situatons it just doesn't make enough pressure. I would try bleeding with the two man method, with power brakes SOMETIMES it is even necessary to do it with the engine running.

If you DO find yourself in a situation where you have to use the two man method with the engine running, take all precautions like chocking, setting parking brake, making SURE it is in drive or neutral and have the person behind the wheel to be an adult that you trust.

Hope this helps.

 

Could be proportioning valve, Try with a mighty vac at the calipers n wheel cylinders.
if there is a blockage in the lines. the needle on the gauge will show massive vacuum and you wont get anything. Check the bleeder screws too. Take em out and run a wire of some sort through em, some brake clean and a blast o compressed air.
pain in the butt method to clear a blockage in the lines. Disconnect all steel lines (everywhere) and blast em with air. if nothing works order a set of new steel lines from in line tube.
I put a set of new lines on my Effie this summer, went right on with no problems.

You could also have a seized caliper (from rot) and a seized wheel cylinder (also from rot). wheel cylinders are around 8 greenbacks each. I'de just get two new ones and put em on the rear (how old are the ones on truck now?). If that helps, plan on rebuilding calipers too.

 

I am going to probably plan on just replacing about everything. The equipment has to be original and it's a good idea as far as I am concerned. I will try the manual method as the method with the 'pusher' did not seem to do anything. I don't have access to a suction style machine so It's off to the old tried and true method. No big deal. I like Rock Auto but the amount of options they have for one product group drives me insane. I mean, one caliper is listed 15 different ways, by different brands, vehicle options, descriptors, next thing is I am researching all this only to find out they are all the same thing!

As far as the proportioning valve...that's a strict rebuild isn't it?

 

I wouldn't even mess with the old p.valve if it truly is that. There are too many superior aftermarket brake accessories available.

So pulling the bleeders completely out gained nothing?
This is a long shot but I have found on more than one occasion where a previous owner has put small nails in the brake line to block the flow to a wheel. This is done at a joint with the shank of the nail run up inside the line then the fitting tightened down in place so that the head of the nail blocks flow down the line. It's an old farmers and 4x4ers trick in case the wheel cylinder blows out or the line gets torn out or leaks. That way you still have brakes to get you home.
Just a suggestion but your symptoms sound right.