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Every time I've run into this it has always come down to a problem with the trailer brake wiring. Sometimes a bad splice, most recently a loose terminal inside the trailer's 7way plug. I would look into your trailer wiring and ohm out the brake circuit.
Trailer disconnected is an ongoing post here at FTE and as noted in preceding posts is most often a connection issue between truck and trailer. The truck IBC is the least likely suspect in terms of possibilities. Unless your trailer wiring is in bad shape, I very seldom find this to be a trailer issue. The seven pin connection at the truck is the most common problem and the most common problem area is the on the back side of the pin, not the side that is easy to get to (naturally). Moisture gets in there and causes corrosion.
on my truck when I need a quick fix of a bad connection and it will often fix a seven pin when nothing is working. It doesn't fix everything, but seven pins are problem children for almost everyone who tows sooner or later. And no, I don't sell it.
Since this is more often a loss-of-ground issue between truck and trailer that causes the IBC to lose its path, you can try running a secondary ground between truck and trailer. Sometimes something as simple as a jumper cable making a good connection between the trailer and truck frame is all it takes to clear up the problem as a temporary aid in diagnosis.
Unlikely that it's the computer. I was experiencing the same thing. Sounds like you have a intermittent connection in the brake circuit on the trailer. One way to verify it would be to connect to a known good trailer and tow it around the block. No "Trailer Disconnected" msg's would mean your trailer has faulting wiring/brakes.
Unlikely that it's the computer. I was experiencing the same thing. Sounds like you have a intermittent connection in the brake circuit on the trailer. One way to verify it would be to connect to a known good trailer and tow it around the block. No "Trailer Disconnected" msg's would mean your trailer has faulting wiring/brakes.
A simpler way is to do this.
With the trailer connected, disconnect the seven pin from the truck and, provided you have a good battery on the trailer, pull the break-away. that should activate the brakes at full force and make the trailer almost impossible to move.
If you can move the trailer, focus your troubleshooting there, if it is locked down tight, the trailer brakes are engaged the connection from the j-box to the brakes is good. That leave the connection at the truck, or the seven pin cord between the truck and j-box. (I am betting the trailer brakes are working). This does not answer all your questions, but connection issues are so far out in front when it comes to this problem, everything else comes in a distance 2nd place.
Be sure to put the break-away pin back in when you are done or you will melt your wires. Most are not sized to carry a continuous full amp draw to the brakes.
Dang this site... tried to give Steve reps for his offer to help and it won't let me --- someone GET him for me
As I posted earlier... EVERY time I've gotten that, I know right where to go...
the remote receptacle they put in my bed will not 'catch' the rv's plug unless I take special effort to LIFT and tilt the plug up and PUSH the cover down to make sure it latches to not allow the rv's plug to vibrate and back out...
see the circled part in the 1st pic? that's where I must ensure 'catches' the rv plugs ridge in the 2nd pic...
I had the message just recently on a couple of occasions. I cleaned the trailer connector then put some dielectric grease on it. seemed to have worked so far.
its kind of interesting to me that mine didn't start doing it till I converted the trailer to disk brakes and switch over to h.o.e.
I had the message just recently on a couple of occasions. I cleaned the trailer connector then put some dielectric grease on it. seemed to have worked so far.
its kind of interesting to me that mine didn't start doing it till I converted the trailer to disk brakes and switch over to h.o.e.
Oh man, you converted to hydraulic. Good luck with that. The Ford controller has a world of problems finding some of the hydraulic systems as the resistance is different. I know it has a hydraulic setting, but it doesn't work with all systems.
It is often helpful to contract the manufacturer of the brake system directly via a phone call to customer support and see what they have to say. This problem keeps popping up simply because the components work, just not always well together. Ford came very late to the party when it comes to hydraulic systems on the towables. The aftermarket guys seems to have handled this pretty well a number of years ago.
Probably not what you wanted to hear, but it is a known problem no matter what Ford might say.
Its the trailer connector. When you put it in the hole, wrap duct tape around to hold it snug and you won't have any problems. Its what I have to do to some of my trailers. Some don't do it. Its a trailer connector issue.
2 trips now no issues with the controller once I cleaned that plug. I used the dexter unit in the trailer. I have the 11,superduty.
Originally Posted by RV_Tech
Oh man, you converted to hydraulic. Good luck with that. The Ford controller has a world of problems finding some of the hydraulic systems as the resistance is different. I know it has a hydraulic setting, but it doesn't work with all systems.
It is often helpful to contract the manufacturer of the brake system directly via a phone call to customer support and see what they have to say. This problem keeps popping up simply because the components work, just not always well together. Ford came very late to the party when it comes to hydraulic systems on the towables. The aftermarket guys seems to have handled this pretty well a number of years ago.
Probably not what you wanted to hear, but it is a known problem no matter what Ford might say.
2 trips now no issues with the controller once I cleaned that plug. I used the dexter unit in the trailer. I have the 11,superduty.
Glad to hear it. The connection at the seven pin is the issue in at least 75% of the cases, maybe more. I am not sure which hydraulic units work with the IBC and which ones have trouble, so it is good to post the manufacturers that work. That way others will know.
always check with the manufacture of the controller. I know when I did the dexter worked with the 11's and thy told me they had issues with the '13's. dexter said that ford changed something to what Chevy had with there ibc.
I know people had luck with the catisle system as well with the '11 and '12's as well.
always check with the manufacture of the controller. I know when I did the dexter worked with the 11's and thy told me they had issues with the '13's. dexter said that ford changed something to what Chevy had with there ibc.
I know people had luck with the catisle system as well with the '11 and '12's as well.
I think the underlying message here may be take your time, assume nothing, and do not jump at replacing parts. The manufacturers do not talk to one another to the degree one might assume and they seldom communicate changes.
New technology has a lot of bling, but sometimes not so much follow-through.
Thanks guys. I checked the trailer and no issue so I think it's in the housing or something other, if I can't figure this out I'm going to rip that computer **** out. :-)
Thanks guys. I checked the trailer and no issue so I think it's in the housing or something other, if I can't figure this out I'm going to rip that computer **** out. :-)
When you get the trailer disconnect message, have you ever tried to see if you can activate the brakes using the manual slide?
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