Oil Circulation Problems

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Oct 22, 2013 | 09:22 PM

#16

Gary Lewis

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From: Northeast, OK

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctubutis

....... so this suggests an omission in the book.

Excuse me!? An error or omission in the book? Sacrilege! What if ND sees that?

Seriously though, I did fleetingly think about the oil pan but then forgot it. That could be a possibility if the pan has been changed.

As for the drainback issue, a less invasive test than pulling the side cover or valve cover would be to check the level in the pan 15 minutes after driving and then again the next morning. I can't imagine the oil doesn't eventually get back down to the pan, so that test would tell the tale. If the readings are the same there is no drainback problem.

Oct 23, 2013 | 05:18 AM

#17

bill06447

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Joined: Sep 2013

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From: Marlborough, CT

That's quite a dent in the oil pan; it's not out of the realm of possibility that it could displace close to a quart of oil. ~Bill

Oct 23, 2013 | 10:03 AM

#18

Dorsai

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Joined: Nov 2010

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From: Johns Creek GA

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctubutis

Could it not also be a situation where the oil pan has been swapped sometime in its life? This happened to me with my 400, 6 quarts is overfilling it as it turns out I have a sedan oil pan & pickup tube installed.

If I remember correctly, the 300 was never installed in cars, only trucks...and in the generations prior to ours, the pan was a front sump design. In other words, I don't think there's a pan that would fit the engine that would also fit in our trucks that is of a different size.

Another possibility (which I admit is stretching here) is that the dipstick tube is wrong...either cut down or incorrect altogether. This could allow the dipstick to be pushed in too far, resulting in an incorrect high reading.

Oct 23, 2013 | 10:24 AM

#19

Gary Lewis

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From: Northeast, OK

In any event, put 5 quarts in on an oil & filter change, start it, kill it, wait, and then mark the dip stick. Add a quart, wait until it runs down, and mark the stick again. Problem solved. Next!

Oct 23, 2013 | 10:29 AM

#20

Dorsai

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From: Johns Creek GA

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gary Lewis

In any event, put 5 quarts in on an oil & filter change, start it, kill it, wait, and then mark the dip stick. Add a quart, wait until it runs down, and mark the stick again. Problem solved. Next!

If this were *my* engine, I would want to fully understand *why* something as important as the oil level was not reading correctly. I would not be satisfied with making a couple of scratches on the dipstick and calling it a day.

Oct 23, 2013 | 10:47 AM

#21

Gary Lewis

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From: Northeast, OK

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dorsai

Assuming that it isn't reading close already. I still don't think we've gotten a good explanation of what the readings are - both 15 minutes after running it and then the next morning. And, on a fresh fill with known quantities of oil. I'll check back in when we get a good understanding of that.

Oct 23, 2013 | 12:44 PM

#22

Ken Blythen

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Joined: Aug 2007

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From: New Zealand

This whole issue is very common (at least with V8's, so probably I6's too) when you go back through threads over the years.

When I did the first oil change on my F250 I had a half-quart discrepancy on the dipstick. I first assumed the dipstick must have been swapped; but the part # was correct; so maybe a higher volume pan? No, correct # again.....& a match to the dipstick #.
It seems there was just a poor fit/consistency standard in manufacture.

So now I fill by volume, & know where the oil should be on the dipstick, after the filter has filled.

You could chase this forever but if your pan & oil volume are correct, the same will work for you (or re-mark the dipstick).
I doubt the oil return is an issue....if it was, you would have noticed big inconsistencies between checking your oil level hot, vs cold.

Oct 23, 2013 | 01:37 PM

#23

Dorsai

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From: Johns Creek GA

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ken Blythen

It seems there was just a poor fit/consistency standard in manufacture.

Absolutely...that could well be the problem. But in addition to making sure all my part numbers were correct and doing the things Gary suggested, I would also look inside the valve cover, put an oil pressure gauge on it for a bit, and replace that dented oil pan with a new one. If all of that is done and the reading is still high...then I would be satisfied with marking my dipstick and moving on.