Help with duraspark ignition
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From: Manton,MI
I ended up rewiring the truck like this.
I also wanted to change the pickup, so i ordered a rebuilt distributor from autozone, but it would not fit in the block as the base was 11 thousands bigger around, so I had to tear both apart and put the guts in my base. It runs great, better than ever, so for how long is the question. I also went to Radio shack and got some heat sink for the HEI. RB
I also wanted to change the pickup, so i ordered a rebuilt distributor from autozone, but it would not fit in the block as the base was 11 thousands bigger around, so I had to tear both apart and put the guts in my base. It runs great, better than ever, so for how long is the question. I also went to Radio shack and got some heat sink for the HEI. RB
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From: Virginia
The heatsink was definitely a good idea. I like the 10 guage wire idea also. They say 12 is good enough, but is minimum for that type ignition. I also like the idea of using a coil that was made for that particular module. That's all in your diagram, don't know if you followed the diagram to the letter or not.
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From: Manton,MI
Yes + I added some ground wires as well. I had to go to the junkyard and buy the GM coil plugs as they are not a normal spade connector. The truck run about 30 miles today with no ignition issues. Only time will tell, but I'm going to keep it close to home for a couple weeks.
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From: Virginia
Forget what you know and troubleshoot it from the beginning, just to make sure you are not missing something. Check all your voltages and check for spark. If it is the module, I would try a different brand.
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Austin, TX
That's because your approach has been a series of guessing games rather than effective troubleshooting.
How do you know the ignition system is to blame in the first place? The one time you actually checked for spark, you did so incorrectly, in such a way that prevented the coil from firing anyway. You need to check for spark in the failure condition. If you truly do not have spark (which you have not verified yet, per the dialogue in this thread), you need to check the voltages getting to the ignition system. You haven't actually proven the ignition system is at fault; the fact that pretty much replacing the entire system only to retain the original problem should tell you something. If the ignition system truly is at fault, you're best served understanding how.
How do you know the ignition system is to blame in the first place? The one time you actually checked for spark, you did so incorrectly, in such a way that prevented the coil from firing anyway. You need to check for spark in the failure condition. If you truly do not have spark (which you have not verified yet, per the dialogue in this thread), you need to check the voltages getting to the ignition system. You haven't actually proven the ignition system is at fault; the fact that pretty much replacing the entire system only to retain the original problem should tell you something. If the ignition system truly is at fault, you're best served understanding how.
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From: Manton,MI
So after I get her home I need to verify 12V to the + side of the coil, then if there is unhook the - wire from the C terminal on the HEI, and then ground, unground it to see if the coil wire sparks?
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
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From: Austin, TX
That's not what I'm saying. When you work the coil manually, you're doing half of the work for the truck, and bypassing half of the system. If the issue lies downstream of the primary winding of the coil, you won't see it this way. You also have to wait until the engine actually stalls. Since the truck runs most of the time, looking for a problem outside of the failure state isn't going to tell you anything.
It's very simple. The next time it stalls, pull off a plug wire, stick a screw driver up into the wire boot, hold the screwdriver shaft close to the block, and watch for a spark while a friend cranks the key. Oldest trick in the book.
It's very simple. The next time it stalls, pull off a plug wire, stick a screw driver up into the wire boot, hold the screwdriver shaft close to the block, and watch for a spark while a friend cranks the key. Oldest trick in the book.
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From: Manton,MI
Well that's simple enough, I already did that. There was no spark. It was when i was trying to figure out if it was the ignition box or coil that I was grounding the coil. It's not like it's intermittent. When it dies you trailer it home, there is no spark.
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From: Virginia
Leave everything hooked up, and put a testlight on the negative of the coil, and clip the ground lead of the testlight to a good ground. Crank the truck. The testlight should blink. This is the module turning the coil on and off, much like you were doing by touching the wire to a ground. Except you are watching to see if the module is doing it's job of grounding and ungrounding the coil.
You probably won't get a blink like you may have already guessed, but that's the way you can troubleshoot a little more what's happening.
Did we discuss before in this thread about the heatsink grease? I would get another brand of module(if it turns out bad) and make sure you use the white heatsink grease on it(not the clear stuff the white grease is the proper grease).
You probably won't get a blink like you may have already guessed, but that's the way you can troubleshoot a little more what's happening.
Did we discuss before in this thread about the heatsink grease? I would get another brand of module(if it turns out bad) and make sure you use the white heatsink grease on it(not the clear stuff the white grease is the proper grease).
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From: Manton,MI
I really dont think it's a heat issue, as i only drove it 3 miles this time and i immediately put my hand on the piece of aluminum that i mounted the HEI too and it was stone cold. I did use the heat sink i bought from Radio shack so if it were getting hot it should have transferred that heat to the aluminum.
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From: Virginia
The only other thing I have seen blow these modules is high voltage. I was having trouble a long time ago with the charging system on a old truck I had with a HEI in it, and I made the mistake of pulling the battery cable off with the engine running. It ran about 5 more seconds and quit, and never ran again till I put a new module in it.
You might want to check your voltages with the engine running, making sure you don't have over 14.5v anywhere.
You might want to check your voltages with the engine running, making sure you don't have over 14.5v anywhere.