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3. The charging gauge had a amp-meter, but should have had a volt-meter. (I don't understand this one)
An "amp meter" actually consists of two separate components, a shunt, and a millivolt meter. A shunt is a precisely manufactured resistor which is placed in line in the wire across which you wish to measure current flow. When current flows across a resistance a voltage drop occurs. As an example, if you put 12 volts into one side of a specific shunt at a specific amperage, you will see only 11.995 volts on the other side. A millivolt meter is then connected to each side of the shunt and it's readings are printed as "amps" instead of "volts". And the numbers are the corresponding amps that are equivalent to the actual millivolts that are being measured.
The type of amp meter that most people are familiar with have the shunt internal to the gauge itself. But there is another type which uses an external shunt. Small gauge wires lead from each side of the shunt of to the separate gauge. The advantage of the later type is that you aren't running high amperage wires up to the gauge and back.
I don't know the wiring specifics in your truck, but the repair shop's statement leads me to believe that you have an external shunt, and therefore have a voltage gauge. The PO probably had no idea of the details and used what ever "amp meter" gauge he could find.
Here is a diagram which might help to understand this:
Make sure UR voltage regulator and ignition is correctly wired. U may need an experienced technician to get it rite for U. Not a biggie unless there has been fire damage. It is not unusual to find some heat damage to wiring in these. Most everything in late model modern vehicles centers around reducing the amount of current draw to current carrying relays controlled by semi-conductor modules controlled by the BCM and ECU.
Make sure UR voltage regulator and ignition is correctly wired. U may need an experienced technician to get it rite for U. Not a biggie unless there has been fire damage. It is not unusual to find some heat damage to wiring in these. Most everything in late model modern vehicles centers around reducing the amount of current draw to current carrying relays controlled by semi-conductor modules controlled by the BCM and ECU.
I am getting the impression from post #13 that the garage fixed his problem.
Great information. Thanks again. The explanation is pretty clear Island Time.
Everything is working great...for now. I have a feeling (after the tinkering) that the wire job is shoddy at best. My goal was to drive the truck through winter and then park it in a garage to begin a frame off rebuild.
I'm probably going to advance that on my calender a few months. I think I'll park it at my father's place around the first of the year and start ripping into it.
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