Ok I kinda thought that and the "horn" is the winch for the spare

 

Ranger passed inspection, Ranger and F250 are undercoated for the winter, and the F250 front bearings were greased and man did they need it. It has been a few good weeks. Wife's snow tires and mud flaps for the explorer are on the way and I bought myself a Milwaukee M12 combo for Christmas.

I was getting buzzing on my new flasher unit from super bright leds. They sent me a new unit after I complained. I got it installed yesterday. once the temp drops to freezing, I will check it and see if it makes that insane buzzing sound as well. If it does, then the problem is something in the truck.

 

mine has been making the same crazy noise. But only when cold. And once its been used for 30-60 devices it stops. Sounds like a bio hazard warning coming from the dash. You'll have to let me know if the new relay helps.

 

I have no idea what is causing it but it drives me nuts. Mine is exactly the same way. I bought the 2002-2004 complete Ford service manual discs. I am hoping to get the wiring off of there to get to the bottom of it. I did not realize you need a Windows PC to use it, so I need to go to the neighbors. My work laptop is restricted..

 

New relay has worked in the cold thus far. We will see how long that lasts.

 

Had a sudden increase in front bearing noise on Tuesday driving home so I had to replace the driver's side front wheel bearing last night. Locally available was MOOG 515020 with a 3 yr warranty. Next time I will order a Timken, but for now hopefully this will do. one thing I did notice is the sensor bolt is a pentagon instead of hex so I need to get a set of sockets to deal with that. I wanted to add grease prior to installation but that didn't happen.




I got socket adapters for my M12 Fuel hex driver. Holy crap does this thing save time. I used it to remove and re-install most of the bolts and then I hand tightened everything. I did have to use the air impact to get the nuts off of the factory bearing. They were a little snug.



Bet when I was done I was rewarded by spending my evening playing with my little helper.




Had an incident with the Ranger last week. Wheel came while driving. In hind sight most likely my fault... Anyway my hand was forced so these arrived yesterday. Just need new brake rotor and lug nuts and I can put that back together and get the tires mounted.

 

Those wheels look sharp. It's a bummer you had a wheel off though. It's a scary feeling when that happens.

Any reason for timkin over Moog? Mine are working fine at the moment, and I just had the truck aligned and the dealer didn't mention anything. I was thinking about picking up a spare to have with the 35s and offroading its probably not the easiest on them.

 

Thanks. The embarrassing part is in the 13.5 years I've owned the Ranger this is the 2nd time I've lost a wheel. Oddly enough, the same wheel. It boiled down to me taking a long time to fix the electrical issues and never torquing the lug nuts from doing the tie-rods.

So I didn't have time to wait for rock auto so I had to source bearings locally. I did not want to pay for Motorcraft. Advance Auto typically has the best prices and I didn't want the generic brand bearing from them. Their high level option was Moog. I have had good luck with Moog parts before, but on here I generally see people go to Timken or SKF for the replacements. I was going to go with SKF off Rock auto because it had a better warranty (equivalent to Moog I think) and $25 cheaper than Timken.

Having one in the garage would be a good idea versus needing to find one in a hurry. I would've loved to do a Spin Tech conversion but those get super pricey. These are the factory bearings as far as I know. 143,000 on them with stock tires. I imagine 35s would definitely cut down on their life span though. Have you greased yours?

 

yeah, my friends make fun of me for always double and triple checking torque on everything. But I used to work at a tire shop and as a company we had a few wheel offs, so I made sure to double and triple check everything.


Gotcha yeah when it happens suddenly you need to adapt. I have never personally greased them even though I bought the adapter from riffraff. But I haven't had the front brakes off myself since I bought it. Based on logic though I doubt the dealer has greased them.

they've had 33s for 90% of the time I've owned the truck probably 5k miles total on and off In the last year with the 35s. So hopefully they last me a while longer.

 

I don't blame the checking. Have one come off is bananas. The truck drives remarkable well on a brake rotor. The design allows it work well, no joke. The brake rotor houses the wheel bearings.

Ya, dealer definitely didn't grease them. I took my brakes all apart to clean and grease and anti-seize everything after I bought the truck. I tried after that to grease them every 10k miles. When I first bought it and jacked the trick up, I spun the wheels and you could hear the dry bearings. That started it all. They spun so much smoother after greasing. Also, plan on replacing the ABS sensors the first time. They were destroyed trying to removed them. Thank you rust/rubber o-rings.

 

I love my Milwaukee tools, especially the M12 ratchet.

Interesting about the Pentagram bolt head, never seen that before. I would likely just use a screw driver to remove and reuse the allen from the original.

I have Timken bearing's with grease on my truck, one of them makes a 20mph screeching noise. Need to undo the front end and inspect. Could be the brakes for all I know.

Sometimes Moog reboxes stuff, always nice to find those hidden gems. Moog does seem like a decent brand for as much flack as they have received on here. I have seen some Timken rebranded boxes too, specifically for Honda wheel bearings where they use a NTN, which is an OEM manufacturer.

Wheels look sharp too.

 

That's true, I could slot it. I have a super duper universal bit set, so I thought I'd have the 5 point bit but i don't.

For what it's worth, this assembly was made in Korea. I suppose that is better than China unless it is North Korea.

M12 ratchet will be next. I am going for the Fuel 3/8 first. Did you bother with the $22 protective boot?

 

I have the M12 early model first generation ratchet, no boot. I do have boots on my other impacts, the M18 High torque, M18 1/4" and M18 3/8" impact.

I like having the boots as the red and white gets pretty greasy, I'm not much of a glove person, and my hands get pretty dirty.

Edit: M12 ratchet regardless of which model will be a life saver. With the 2ah battery I can assemble most of a car. Even though it's only rated up to 35ft-lbs. IIRC the Fuel 3/8" is around 55 ft-lbs.

 

That's what I was thinking. I have the brushless drill and hex driver and I love them. Came with 2 and 4 Ah batteries. I've been meaning to get a 3/8 air ratchet but the hose often gets in the way. When I saw the ratchet on the M12 line and that most tools were powerful but compact, I jumped on the black Friday deal.

 

No updates on the F250. Got the wheels on the Ranger and the new tires and mud flaps on the wife's Explorer.







I hope everyone had a nice Christmas, we did.




And Santa brought a pretty sweet present