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2002 F250 CCLB Build

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  #211  
Old 06-05-2014, 08:29 AM
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Looking good, and nice work on the tractor Those switches look pretty slick too.

I wish my truck got 16 mpg... but it is no longer my daily driver either. It is now my project/hunting/camping/off-road/sand dune/tow rig

I got a Fusion to haul my butt around now.
 
  #212  
Old 06-05-2014, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by drey04
Looking good, and nice work on the tractor Those switches look pretty slick too.

I wish my truck got 16 mpg... but it is no longer my daily driver either. It is now my project/hunting/camping/off-road/sand dune/tow rig

I got a Fusion to haul my butt around now.
Lol. You have 3.73s w/ 35 tires. In a flat area rolling down the highway you should be golden. Around town and in stop go driving, I can't see it going that well...

My fiance is driving the F250 this week because we have a buddy in town using her car as his rental lol. She loves driving it, but absolutely hates putting gas in it....
 
  #213  
Old 06-05-2014, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by wizkid00104
Lol. You have 3.73s w/ 35 tires. In a flat area rolling down the highway you should be golden. Around town and in stop go driving, I can't see it going that well...

My fiance is driving the F250 this week because we have a buddy in town using her car as his rental lol. She loves driving it, but absolutely hates putting gas in it....
yeah driving empty on a flat straight highway with a tailwind, it's not bad. lol
 
  #214  
Old 06-05-2014, 11:50 AM
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I usually drive downhill in neutral with a tail wind while tied to a semi...gets pretty goot MPGs when the stars all align.

You gotta pay to have fun
 
  #215  
Old 06-05-2014, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by xmontex4
You gotta pay to have fun
you got it
 
  #216  
Old 06-05-2014, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by drey04
you got it
I can think of at least 1 activity that makes this a lie
 
  #217  
Old 06-05-2014, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by wizkid00104
I can think of at least 1 activity that makes this a lie
hehe
 
  #218  
Old 06-05-2014, 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by wizkid00104
Can you post a picture of the switch?

Here is the wiring schematic from superbrightleds. I imagine it will be similar.



Wiring between NC1 and C1 would mean the button would be out, the LED would be off, and, and the circuit would be on.

Wiring between NO1 and C1 would mean the button would be in, the LED would be on, and the circuit would be on.

I was going to solder leads on at least and then heat shrink the wiring. Does that help?

Before vacation, I've been filling the SD about 1 or 2 times a month.
Just saw this I was too busy thinking of free activities lol.

Here is a link to it on Amazon:
Amazon.com: Black Push Button Switch Latching Red Ring LED 18mm: Automotive Amazon.com: Black Push Button Switch Latching Red Ring LED 18mm: Automotive


No diagram but they did add a rear shot now lol that wasn't there when i first ordered it. That does help though thanks!
 
  #219  
Old 07-11-2014, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by 02TB250
Quads usually do in a full size, I'm planning on fitting a RZR in there with the tailgate down so you should be able to no issues

Haha, only smaller quads will fit in a short bed. Neither my Polaris 500 sportsman or the Yamaha Grizzly 700 would fit in the back of the rcsb f150. I haven't tried them in the back of my f250, I'm sure they would fit, but I'm not comfortable with the angle of the ramps to get them in the bed (same ramps from my f150 but current truck is a lot taller lol). It's easier to put them in a trailer.
...also they weren't stock so maybe...
 
  #220  
Old 07-16-2014, 07:32 AM
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Had to order several things for the Ranger... so I decided to order my conversion harness for my headlights too. I figured I could get those installed and hopefully get some money back out of the current ones on the truck. Should be getting to that soon after the Ranger is clear for inspection. Lucky me I have to buy tires for the fiance's SUV and my Ranger. There goes another cool $1k.... oh well. I am also going to order the touch up spray paint and my neighbor and I are going to deal with that paint bubble on the bed side. I sealed it, but that broke and it is starting to rust underneath. I am going to clean it up and smooth it out and the see what I can do about sealing the metal on the back side. I have actually thought about drilling a small hole and inject Chassis Saver into the pinch weld area near the rust and hope for the best. I don't want the bed to rot, but I can't afford to pay $1500 to have it fixed correctly at the moment (after wedding maybe... I'd actually consider getting the whole truck resprayed too )

On another note, I spoke to my local Ziebart the other day. I got the Gold package from them when I bought the truck. It covered sound deadening under coat, Diamond Gloss on the paint, and something to the leather. Anyway, I asked what it would cost to get the undercoat touched up before winter. $40!!!! I about fell out of my chair. Think of the shear size of this truck and they have to power wash it and reapply the coating (in some areas). And to have the diamond gloss re-done is $100. Sign me up for those!

Finally, took Levi for his first Ranger ride last night. He enjoyed it

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  #221  
Old 07-16-2014, 07:48 AM
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Cool man i love how his eyes are two different colors that's awesome!

Are you talking about the 250 getting resprayed? Just a word of caution I had my truck resprayed and its ECSB and it ended up costing 7g because of the amount of rust in the bed that needed to be fixed, actually take out the extra money for the two tone and it was about 6.5g. My bed showed just a little bubble on both sides and i needed two whole new quarter panels, inner fenders you name it i needed it. The body guy was very good about it though and didn't surprise me with the bill at the end.

IMO I would cu tout your inner fenders and remove the foam then you can look right at the quarter panel form the inside and judge how bad it is but if there is an outside bubble its probably through already unfortunately. But then you can get the plastic rear liners that Scaler brought up before, i got them and i love them they cover the entire wheel well.
 
  #222  
Old 07-16-2014, 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by xmontex4
Cool man i love how his eyes are two different colors that's awesome!

Are you talking about the 250 getting resprayed? Just a word of caution I had my truck resprayed and its ECSB and it ended up costing 7g because of the amount of rust in the bed that needed to be fixed, actually take out the extra money for the two tone and it was about 6.5g. My bed showed just a little bubble on both sides and i needed two whole new quarter panels, inner fenders you name it i needed it. The body guy was very good about it though and didn't surprise me with the bill at the end.

IMO I would cu tout your inner fenders and remove the foam then you can look right at the quarter panel form the inside and judge how bad it is but if there is an outside bubble its probably through already unfortunately. But then you can get the plastic rear liners that Scaler brought up before, i got them and i love them they cover the entire wheel well.
Thanks he's a Husky German Shepherd.

Its crossed my mind, but I haven't got any prices. We know a guy who does nice work at a very reasonable price, so I'll probably talk to him first. If its going to cost that much, I want try doing it myself.... Your paint cost twice as much as my Ranger. At least the body guy was honest.

I've looked at the liners and I think I am going to get them. Can you post any pictures of them? I am going to look into them.

Thank you for the opinion on the bed side. I will handle that work with caution... I don't want to make the problems worse. I am still convinced that it rusted because it got hit there right after I bough it. The section that bubbled and peeled was all new paint and the rust bubble developed after the paint peeled. I an really crossing my fingers on this. I looked really hard for a clean truck... I hope I can keep it that way.
 
  #223  
Old 07-16-2014, 09:25 PM
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Matt,

I got another idea to run past you. What do you think about using a hole saw and cutting 2 large holes in the inner fender well to allow access to the foam rust crap. That would allow the ability to clean it out and paint it. Leaving the holes in the inner fender would make it very easy for the undercoaters to hit that area each year. Except when its at the undercoaters, it will have the fender well liners to cover everything.

It took me a while to come up with that. The idea here is to minimize the touchup painting on the outside of the truck for now lol.
 
  #224  
Old 07-16-2014, 11:17 PM
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I forgot you got hit i though it was coming from the back, you may be all set then!

That's not a bad idea with the hole saw, you could soak the foam in oil which will prevent it just as well.

I don't have any good pics and it was pouring today so ill get some for you in the morning and post them up on here for ya, i love them they're great they stop everything!.

yeah...the paint job wasn't cheap but it was very well done so i can't complain! it was so badly rusted that he even had to make some custom patches that the new quarter panels didn't reach! that's what ended up costing the most because it took a lot of time and effort to make patch then bondo and make it look perfect. you can't even tell that he patched the bed he did such a good job, at first i thought the price was a little high but the outcome was perfect so i can;t really complain..and the bed was bad...i mean bad lol he showed me the old quarters...holy crap the paint was about all that was left.
 
  #225  
Old 07-17-2014, 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by xmontex4
I forgot you got hit i though it was coming from the back, you may be all set then!

That's not a bad idea with the hole saw, you could soak the foam in oil which will prevent it just as well.

I don't have any good pics and it was pouring today so ill get some for you in the morning and post them up on here for ya, i love them they're great they stop everything!.

yeah...the paint job wasn't cheap but it was very well done so i can't complain! it was so badly rusted that he even had to make some custom patches that the new quarter panels didn't reach! that's what ended up costing the most because it took a lot of time and effort to make patch then bondo and make it look perfect. you can't even tell that he patched the bed he did such a good job, at first i thought the price was a little high but the outcome was perfect so i can;t really complain..and the bed was bad...i mean bad lol he showed me the old quarters...holy crap the paint was about all that was left.
Ya. It was hit in the dealers parking lot before I could pick it up after undercoating. It started to rust on that side and that to me is suspicious.... but I can't prove anything and I went back to the shop that did the work and that guy never called me back. Too busy with accidents to do rust repair.

Your's was a plow truck, right? I am more than certain my old truck would've put me in the same position. The inner rockers on my old one were swiss cheese. I don't think the current one will. I got a good look at it before I bought and other than surface rust on the frame, it was extremely clean for a rust belt truck. But who knows when it comes to the inner wells on the bed. I am thinking more and more about cutting the holes. But I have to get the Ranger squared away first...

Can't wait to see the pictures.
 


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