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I have not found an answer but I guess I can say I am not comfortable with what I have so I have a few questions:
1. I have read the replacement procedure for king pins in the shop manual and am a little afraid of the reaming process. I also noticed that several groups sell over-sized kingpins in addition to the regular ones. Which do I need and where do I measure them? Also I noticed that NPD (and possibly more) sell a king pin kit for $52.25 and a "Special low friction needle bearing" kit for $346.95. Is the expensive kit worth it?
2. What is the preferred method of redoing the steering box. Several places sell all the parts and rock auto sells the whole part. What have others done?
You need to spend some quality time under the truck first. Your problem may not be the kingpins or the steering box, could be tie rod ends, drag link, etc.
1 -- I'd jack up each front wheel and see if the kingpins are the problem first thing. O/S kingpins are for when the pin fit in the axle is loose. To use them, you have to take the whole axle out, take it to a shop and have the axle bosses bored out to fit.
The needle bearing kits reduce effort a noticeable amount, some people swear by them, but there are some potential issues with them. Bushings have far greater wear area, and provide some damping to jolts from the road. To fit the bearings in, the pins have to be smaller diameter. Not a fan, if you can't tell.
2 -- Again, I'd take the box off, open it up and inspect it. It may need all new parts, or it may need just an easy one like the sector roller. If the worm is shot, that's a different game. Investigate first.
I'm with Ross-figure out the problem then fix it. You'll want to look at the whole steering set up to isolate the issue. The drag link has wear points that are an easier fix than tearing into the steering box and could be the culprit.
I will start digging in this weekend but based on the play in the wheel(grabbing a tire at the top) I think the king pins are in need though as you both point out that is probably not the only problem.
I was absolutely shocked when I was putting in my 9" last year. Once the old axle was off, I could swing the springs almost 4" to either side at the axle mounting surface with light finger pressure. The bushings were totally shot, the pins worn 25% off their diameter. If you have that situation on the front, no matter how tight the steering system is, it's going to go wherever it feels like going.
I crawled under the truck this evening and had my son turn the wheel back and forth while I looked. He could turn the wheel about 20 deg before the pitman arm started to move. I assume this isn't "normal" so I think that is my first task. There is also some play when I jiggle the top of the tire in and out. I assume there should be no play there.
I crawled under the truck this evening and had my son turn the wheel back and forth while I looked. He could turn the wheel about 20 deg before the pitman arm started to move. I assume this isn't "normal" so I think that is my first task. There is also some play when I jiggle the top of the tire in and out. I assume there should be no play there.
John
I figure an inch or less at the outside of the 18 inch steering wheel is good. If you attempt any adjustment, make certain the steering box is in the centered position prior to adjustment. Any end play when you pull on up on the steering wheel? Gear box full of lubrication?
Accepted play in the king pins is somewhere around 3/32" and measured at the brake backing plate. (Verify this figure) Don't confuse wheel bearing play with king pin wear.
My SWAG is you are going to find wear in all front end parts. A little bit in this part and a little bit in that part and you soon have a sloppy driving vehicle..
Good luck with it and keep us posted as to what you find.
The fact that the gearbox had lubrication is a good sign. No vertical play in the steering shaft is imperative to tight steering. 6" play in the wheel is way too much. Read up on gearbox adjustments, they're pretty simple.
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