When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
When my headlights are off, they're off (at least that works).
When my switch is turned to parking lights, my parking lights and display gauges are NOT on.
When my switch is turned to headlights, my headlights are on, but my parking lights and display gauges are NOT on.
I read around on here saying my headlight switch may be going out.
So I tried to take a picture to see what type I needed (have an 1999 F250).
Looks to me like you broke the switch, somebody correct me if I'm wrong but I believe the following instructions also apply for removing the switch on your pickup. I think you need to pull the whole thing and replace it. http://www.scribd.com/doc/377317/Expedition
Looks to me like you broke the switch, somebody correct me if I'm wrong but I believe the following instructions also apply for removing the switch on your pickup. I think you need to pull the whole thing and replace it. http://www.scribd.com/doc/377317/Expedition
You broke it, I did the same thing. You can try and glue it back, but sooner or later it's going to fall out. I installed rockers.
I got them from OTRATTW.net (over the river and through the woods). The switch bodies were $10 and Contura V Laser etched Rocker was $5. Total of $15 bucks. It was a little intimidating with all the wire behind there but I was able to figured it all out. I have to get back behind the dash to replace the SES light bulb in the cluster, so i'll take pics, hopefully this week as i'm also changing out front wheel hubs, axle and drive shaft U-joints and the 200k mile service.
In the 650 dash kit I soon plan on placing in two more gauges where the one small hole is in replacement of the parking brake valve would have been.
Was it difficult to wire those up. I'm not the most electrical guy, but would really love that headlight setup, plus it seems to look a little cheaper. Just wondering if you could walk someone through it. There are a lot of wires back there.
Thanks
P.S. - does that even sound like what happened though, I mean I could have broken it, but does it still sound like that is why my truck's lights aren't working properly?
YA, back to your question. Got a little sidetracked. It sounds like to me that the headlight switch has gone out. Before you make that the decision go through the fuses, which I doubt thats the problem according to your description. Check all the grounds, look around in the engine compartment by the headlight wires and battery grounds, Go poke around with a flashlight first.
For everything that I did, at 15 bucks a switch, bought 200ft of 16gauge wire times 12 for different colors for color code, and a bunch of delphi plugs and connectors, It blew way past my budget, but now I got a bunch in stock.
To do the head light switch, it wont be inexpensive as it would time consuming. So the piece that broke off sitting in your hand, I used that as the frame piece because it fit back into its location then I cut out the center to fit the switches. I had to use a dremel toll to cut, that plastic is tuff. I'll try and get behind the dash this week to get some pics.
What actually happens to the switch to cause it to stop working? I mean I read a lot of threads with this problem when I was researching them. I'm just curious what actually "goes out"?
And I'm still debating new switch from Rock Auto (about $60) or used from eBay ($30) or rockers (~$45 and I still don't have instructions ; - nor information on the cluster brightness wheel - didn't see it on OTRATTW ). I'm wondering if the used ones will be problematic, because they go out so frequently. The one on ebay has 111K on the truck that they came off of.
The way I understand it, Ford has always had ALOT of juice flowing through the switch. and eventually, they get baked. Plastic is not fond of heat cycling. Hence the relay mod for your headlights.
I'm not exactly sure what causes them to go out, but just like the gauge cluster there are little circuit boards in there and with enough bouncing around or water from leaks causes the solder to break or corrode or just bad soldering.
As for the dimmer light switch for the gauges, I did not get it at OTRATTW. dimmer switch came off of a Peterbilt truck. Which mine is not working or my wiring is not correct off the dimmer, you can find other ones on ebay.
I don't have a wiring diagram for the headlight wires, hopefully someone can chime in with one. I do have to get behind the dash to replace a light bulb in the gauge cluster, I'm going to try this weekend, my family just has a lot of birthdays this month and its tight. But I will get in there and label all the wires for you. I still need to tie in two wires that I didn't know what they went to. two small black ones. I'm assuming one of them is for the running lights to flash when you set the alarm, so I need to get back in there to tighty it up. It's up to you on which way you want to go but I will post a wire schematic for you to go off of, The head lights were the only thing I didn't do a schematic on, why I don't know.
Bad news - got a new [ used, but he said it was working when it was taken out - and he's from PSN, so I somewhat trust him - ] switch, and installed it. Same issues. I did notice this time (don't know if it matters or not, but it was probably doing it before), but the radio lights are out as well. So, basically everything but headlights are out. I fully thought this was going to be the fix, so I didn't really try anything else you guys suggested, because of the "which I doubt is the problem".
So I'm ready to try some more... Scott, what did you mean by ... "Check all the grounds, look around in the engine compartment by the headlight wires and battery grounds, Go poke around with a flashlight first." - which grounds am I looking for/at, and I hate electrical work. As for the fuses - visually check all of them or did you happen to know which one(s) I'm concerned with.
Thanks, man. Disappointed that wasn't the problem. Seems like I've got much more tedious diagnosis to perform, and I was just hoping you guys could start me in a more narrow direction. Thanks again.
Bad news - got a new [ used, but he said it was working when it was taken out - and he's from PSN, so I somewhat trust him - ] switch, and installed it. Same issues. I did notice this time (don't know if it matters or not, but it was probably doing it before), but the radio lights are out as well. So, basically everything but headlights are out. I fully thought this was going to be the fix, so I didn't really try anything else you guys suggested, because of the "which I doubt is the problem".
So I'm ready to try some more... Scott, what did you mean by ... "Check all the grounds, look around in the engine compartment by the headlight wires and battery grounds, Go poke around with a flashlight first." - which grounds am I looking for/at, and I hate electrical work. As for the fuses - visually check all of them or did you happen to know which one(s) I'm concerned with.
Thanks, man. Disappointed that wasn't the problem. Seems like I've got much more tedious diagnosis to perform, and I was just hoping you guys could start me in a more narrow direction. Thanks again.
Hey, sorry I didn't get back to you I am in the middle of moving and had the internet disconnected, took the guys a little longer than planned to get it going. Let me do some research on this and see if I can't come up with something and I don't know where any of my books are at the moment until I can unpack. Fortunately for me I do like wiring (don't know why) but hopefully we can come up with something and hopefully someone else has some ideas too. The way it's sounding that there is a short or bad ground in the system and or a fuse under the dash because when you have your headlights in the on position but no dash or tail that usually is a fuse. I'm hoping and betting that it is a fuse.
I would grab your factory manual from the glove compartment and check which fuses pertain to the issue. Pull the fuse and do a continuity check to see if it is good. Otherwise it could be a ground like Scott said or possibly a failed relay.
I feel so dumb. It was a fuse. It just didn't make that much sense to me. I thought it was weird that one thing on the circuit (actual headlights) worked and something else (running lights / console display lights) didn't. I guess they're on different circuits then. Regardless... thanks guys for the help, and I'm sorry to have bothered you with something so simple. I do really appreciate your help!