There's a relay for the starter on the inner fender.

I had an injector giving me trouble, and I finally took them all out to get rebuilt. When I took out #7, I had to take off the solenoid on top, and you could spin the little part that makes electrical contact underneath it with your finger. Hard to say without a buzz test if your engine is doing anything similar. When I did my buzz test, the #7 injector sounded a lot weaker than the rest.

 

With that burned pigtail, it is possible that it is shorting out the connector to the injector. The IDM can shut one bank down to protect itself. If this is the case the new pigtail should solve this.
On the battery voltage, how do the cables look? Is there any swelling in the cable covering? Corrosion can get in the cable causing resistance. Were the battery posts and cable ends shinny clean? Are the nutral/gounds clean and tight where they connect to the engine block? If not, it doesent take much corrosion to lower the voltage. Also the batterys can pass the voltage test, and fail the load test. Load test the batterys separate from one another. Just a few places to check.

 

I need to check one thing out to be sure I'm on the right cylinder.

I assumed it was cylinder #5, because my Range Rovers are 1-3-5-7 on the driver side bank (Left side).
Read somewhere on this forum that 2-4-6-8 is the driver side (left side) on these engines?

Am I messing around with the #5 or the #6 cylinder here

 

Drivers Side front to back ... 2 4 6 8
Pass Side front to back ... 1 3 5 7

 

OK, #6 it is then

 

Now it won't turn over

Wait to start lights up, after that cycle i turn the key and nothing.
Pulled out the starter relay (the one that has the small red wire down to the starter). Tested it on the work bench, perfect condition.
So now it doesn't get power from the ignition.

I found the starter relay between the left headlamp and radiator.

I also pulled the new startermotor out and tested on the work bench, also perfect. Cleaned all wireconnectors and ground cables.

While I still have the left battery out, I am going to pull the PCM to check for water ingress in the connector. It looks kind of wet on the outside after the rain/snow we had last night.

 

On the diagram the wire from the starter relay goes to the transmission Park or Neutral selector switch. And then to the ignition switch.

Maybe the gear selector is out of place. I'll try to wiggle it and try Neutral later on. It's snowing heavily at the moment

 

I was going to suggest that too. Try starting it in Neutral.

 

Run a quick jump wire from the right battery + to the small terminal on the starter relay. If it cranks, then indeed problem is upstream - key switch, tranny neutral safety, etc.

 

^^^ Yep ^^^ If vans are the same jump the starter relay. In center of picture is the starter relay with the key-start connector unplugged. Jump that bare connector to + side of battery and engine will turn over without engine starting.

 

Thanks guys, I will try that tomorrow.
First try starting in neutral, if it starts. Then I will try in park.
If not then I will try the jumper wire directly to the small terminal.

But before putting back the left battery, i will unplug the IDM and check the connection. Also place a rubber sheat over it to protect it from rainwater.

If all this fails, maybe I should try some parts from my van. Parts like the IDM, PCM and others. One at a time.

 

Resolve the cranking issue first. Electronics (PCM, IDM, sensors, etc) are NOT part of the starting circuit.

 

Crank issue is now resolved

IDM connector was full of water, cleaned it and covered the whole thing with a rubber sheating.

Tried shifting to neutral and park, still nothing happens.
Jumper wire to starting relay, and it cranked
Checked connection at transmission, nothing wrong.
Then on to the dreaded under dash wiring chaos, Wooah, what's that switch for? Flicked it and now it cranks, but it won't fire.
It sounds like it fires on 1 cylinder. lots of grey white smoke.
Put my hand on the exhaust up pipes, left side is slightly warm, while the other is cold.
So one or more of the 2-4-6-8 cylinders are firing.

Maybe a buzz test is the next step? How do I do that?

 

Kill switch FTW (not)....

Left side is 2-4-6-8, right is 1-3-5-7. One bank can be shut down by a UVCH injector wiring problem, or an IDM issue. If the IDM connector was that wet, I'd bet a nickel that it's wet inside, too. To do a buzz test, you connect the truck to a scanner that will communicate with our trucks, or to a computer with AE, and, er, select "Buzz test"....

 

Your best bet is to try the IDM from your van in it and see if you get it to fire.