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Old Oct 9, 2013 | 03:56 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Hussler
I agree, anytime current goes through a connector the connector is always the weak point. In this case we have two connection points, outside and inside the valve cover. This afternoon I'm going to check out the new Dorman valve cover gasket assembly from Napa and see what quality it is before deciding on a replacement.
I've used a couple of the valve cover gaskets from Napa (no idea if they are Dorman or not) with no issues.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2013 | 04:14 PM
  #17  
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Neato! I got my neighbor bringing his truck to me later this week b/c it keeps dropping a bank here and there. I too was unable to pull any codes, the buzz test came back with nothing, but the cylinder contribution gave 3 passenger side cylinders. I'm assuming his UVCHs are toast too at 280k on the stockers.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2013 | 10:39 PM
  #18  
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What a pain in the butt ... I did finally get the passenger side valve cover off this evening. Glow plug connector for cylinder 3 and 7 had some damage on outside (not visible until unplugged) and inside but not as bad as pictures posted on drivers side. I'm replacing everything including the glow plugs while I'm in there. Part of the problem, of course, is it's always harder the first time.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2013 | 12:07 AM
  #19  
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I think while you are in there it would be a good time to do at least injector O rings. Or just upgrade injectors too, 200k how much more could you go Well if you don't do it now at least ya know it's always easier to get there the next time, just something more to think about.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2013 | 01:45 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by richdawg
I think while you are in there it would be a good time to do at least injector O rings. Or just upgrade injectors too, 200k how much more could you go Well if you don't do it now at least ya know it's always easier to get there the next time, just something more to think about.
i am not too short of 280k miles on the original injectors...
likely original o-rings too...

Richard
 
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Old Oct 10, 2013 | 01:59 PM
  #21  
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Forgot to post this before. Just an FYI, a 1/4" drive swivel headed ratchet makes getting to the back valve cover bolt a breeze.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2013 | 07:14 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by richdawg
I think while you are in there it would be a good time to do at least injector O rings. Or just upgrade injectors too, 200k how much more could you go Well if you don't do it now at least ya know it's always easier to get there the next time, just something more to think about.
My thought to, however the plan was to wait until next spring the pull the injectors and send in for a rebuild. Going to stick to the plan and budget.

Originally Posted by strokin'_tatsch
Forgot to post this before. Just an FYI, a 1/4" drive swivel headed ratchet makes getting to the back valve cover bolt a breeze.
Yea, I seldom use the 1/4 inch and counld not find the swivel ... so today I got one, hope the putting it back together is easier.

I completely forgot about the thin wall socket needed to get the glow plugs out. Nothing I have won't get close in there. Is it 1/4 inch stuff or what? Would harbor Freight have what is necessary?
 
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Old Oct 10, 2013 | 07:19 PM
  #23  
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Lowes has a thin wall 10mm kobalt
 
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Old Oct 10, 2013 | 07:49 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by fordpride
Lowes has a thin wall 10mm kobalt
Thanks .............
 
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Old Oct 10, 2013 | 08:13 PM
  #25  
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My 1/4" 10mm craftsman sockets will get them, but you have to use some vacuum line or fuel line to pull them out the last few turns b/c the socket hits the rocker arm.

On that back valve cover bolt, I use the 1/4" swivel HEADED ratched. The head of the ratchet swivels around. Makes it way easier than a fixed ratchet with a swivel on it.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2013 | 09:31 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by strokin'_tatsch
My 1/4" 10mm craftsman sockets will get them, but you have to use some vacuum line or fuel line to pull them out the last few turns b/c the socket hits the rocker arm.

On that back valve cover bolt, I use the 1/4" swivel HEADED ratched. The head of the ratchet swivels around. Makes it way easier than a fixed ratchet with a swivel on it.
Went to harbor freight and purchased 1/4 10mm metric deep socket, actually the set (PITTSBURGH), never owned 1/4 inch deep sockets before .. do now. The 10 mm is same size top to bottom so the GP just spun out. Got all out on drivers side with no issues.

While there I did purchase the 1/4" ratchet swivel you mentioned, and a few other items, and thanks for the tip. My inventory of 1/4 inch stuff has been lost over the years.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 01:47 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by DIYMechanic
Did you see the thread I started about the newer Dorman gaskets that eliminate the connection inside the valve cover? Maybe you should be our guinea pig!
I just installed a set last week!
 
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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 11:28 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Hussler
Went to harbor freight and purchased 1/4 10mm metric deep socket, actually the set (PITTSBURGH), never owned 1/4 inch deep sockets before .. do now. The 10 mm is same size top to bottom so the GP just spun out. Got all out on drivers side with no issues.

While there I did purchase the 1/4" ratchet swivel you mentioned, and a few other items, and thanks for the tip. My inventory of 1/4 inch stuff has been lost over the years.
On the 1/4" swivel head, you are talking about the drive size, right? What size are the bolts for the VC? I know it's on here somewhere or I could just check my own. laziness is a killer....
 
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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 11:45 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by BBslider001
On the 1/4" swivel head, you are talking about the drive size, right? What size are the bolts for the VC? I know it's on here somewhere or I could just check my own. laziness is a killer....
Valve cover bolts take a 13mm to get them out.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 12:19 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by farmert
Valve cover bolts take a 13mm to get them out.
Thanks! Is this what we are talking about? I can get these from work pretty cheap!

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...0Joints%2522|~
 
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