When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Seems I have some cash on fire in the pocket and the King is hurting (2003 f350 6.0l)
I have a fuel pressure issue and keep burning up #8 injector. Drops below 35 psi at WOT.
My powermax is putting to much air through
And a blue spring won't keep up. Have replaced the pump and same thing happens.
So first off I'm seriously looking at the Driven Diesel regulated fuel return.
I am going to get a complete set of stock injectors(less headache for me)
And a sct tune from Matt at gear heads.
A regulated return is not really required for stock injectors. Let's start with a good base and see what happens.
My suggestions: Use a fuel sump on the tank (XDP Black Anodized Diesel Fuel Tank Sump Kit - No Tank Drop Install ), a Airdog 100 or 150 system (NOT the ADII version). Check the fuel pressure readings before and after the work. Link above is for a product reference not a recommendation.
From what I have read I will agree with Heavy Assault. A regulated return won't do you any good on stock injectors. It, like the high pressure oil delivery system, is designed for larger injectors. I myself have a completely stock fuel system with the blue spring upgrade, stock turbo, and SRL Extreme tune and rarely can get it down to 45 PSI under WOT. I understand wanting to stick on stock injectors as they can easily be replaced locally and for cheap. This means not having to wait for aftermarket injectors to ship in and have a truck be down. This is the same reason I am staying on stock injectors.
I have not wanted to use an aftermarket pump due to some reliability issues with aftermarket pumps and the stock pump pretty much being known to be rock solid. I had also read in a few places that the stock pump can support slightly larger injectors anyways. What's the idea behind the fuel tank sump?
The sump becomes the lowest point of the fuel and works best when swapping in a fuel system. This will allow the fuel to flow out with positive pressure to supply the OEM pump or aftermarket setup.
There have been reports of sloshing that when fuel is below 1/4 tank causes excessive air entrapment. The OEM pickup will suck air causing potential injector issues.
Adding a sump can cause clearance issues for some trucks. The fuel tank skid plate can be easily modified to help protect the sump. While I am lifted 6" on 35's my modded skid provides PLENTY of sump protection for most potential hazards. I would suggest more protection measures if you want to run the back roads HARD.
I definitely do know of the 1/4 tank fuel issues due to sloshing. I just didn't know there was any other benefit to it. I'm assuming the HFCM just draws fuel from the sump instead of the sending unit then?
From what I have read I will agree with Heavy Assault. A regulated return won't do you any good on stock injectors. It, like the high pressure oil delivery system, is designed for larger injectors. I myself have a completely stock fuel system with the blue spring upgrade, stock turbo, and SRL Extreme tune and rarely can get it down to 45 PSI under WOT. I understand wanting to stick on stock injectors as they can easily be replaced locally and for cheap. This means not having to wait for aftermarket injectors to ship in and have a truck be down. This is the same reason I am staying on stock injectors.
I have not wanted to use an aftermarket pump due to some reliability issues with aftermarket pumps and the stock pump pretty much being known to be rock solid. I had also read in a few places that the stock pump can support slightly larger injectors anyways. What's the idea behind the fuel tank sump?
I think my issue is at the regulator and not the pump. And to replace it I may as well get a regulated return.
And my truck is using the powermax and a edge 150hp chip and its using up the fuel at 2500 and above. Mabey a strict on injector. But I changed #8 and it ran well for a month till it cooked it again and now it's hydra locked when I try to start it.
That's what I always thought was that it was a regulator problem but it seems like it's more of an issue of not getting enough fuel up to the upper bowl and it running empty during a long pull. You shouldn't be eating injectors that quickly. Even with heavy tuning I've only lost 1 injector and it was an original to the truck.
That's what I always thought was that it was a regulator problem but it seems like it's more of an issue of not getting enough fuel up to the upper bowl and it running empty during a long pull. You shouldn't be eating injectors that quickly. Even with heavy tuning I've only lost 1 injector and it was an original to the truck.
It's not on a long haul only. It's anytime above 2500 rpm the fuel pressure drops below 35 psi.
Have put 3 injectors in number 8 in the last year and a half. And one in number 6.
I'm not putting another injector in without fixing the real issue.
I have considered replacing the regulator spring and trying again.
What are the chances of having a cracked head that's leaking into combustion chamber.
I have been watching the oil and coolant levels.
On long hauls oil is solid level. But I do have a small coolant loss.
Replaced the head gaskets and did studs at 260000km when the HPOP went. Didn't get the heads inspected at all. Looked at them and threw them back on. Was in a bind cause I pulled the motor from the truck. Then stage 3 seperated my shoulder and had to get my dad and cousin to help put it back together. So I never got to go over things with I fine tooth brush.
I think my issue is at the regulator and not the pump. And to replace it I may as well get a regulated return.
And my truck is using the powermax and a edge 150hp chip and its using up the fuel at 2500 and above. Mabey a strict on injector. But I changed #8 and it ran well for a month till it cooked it again and now it's hydra locked when I try to start it.
Have you tried removing the edge chip to see if the pump will handle the truck stock? Perhaps the 150 HP tune is more than the stock fuel pump can handle, the max added HP from the SCT canned tunes is 120 HP. http://www.sctflash.com/products.php?PID=2&VID=548
Ck the fuel return line for a blockage, if you have replaced the fuel pump ck the fuel water separator too
Replaced the whole hfcm to replace pump. So it should be good.
I'm not sure if the fuel return line being blocked would under pressure the system.
I could see over pressuring it.
But how would you check it?
Replaced the whole hfcm to replace pump. So it should be good.
I'm not sure if the fuel return line being blocked would under pressure the system.
I could see over pressuring it.
But how would you check it?
Take the return line off at the secondary filter and blow air through it. I don't see that causing an under pressure condition either.
Have you tried removing the edge chip to see if the pump will handle the truck stock? Perhaps the 150 HP tune is more than the stock fuel pump can handle, the max added HP from the SCT canned tunes is 120 HP. http://www.sctflash.com/products.php?PID=2&VID=548
I'm not sure the actual hp of this chip. I got it used and its a old style 3 position toggle switch for power setting. It does have a pyro but no monitor for the truck.
But on the lowest setting it still does this. I have had it on since before the problem but not by over a year so it may be my issue.
I will try unplugging it and replug the engine harness to the ecu.
The shop I work for just got a job for changing all 8 injectors on a 2006 f350 so if any of them check out I will swap my bad ones out and send my bad ones for their cores.
This will get the truck running again so I can check some of this stuff.
<p><p>Since you haven't always had this problem, when did the problem arise? When you replaced the pump did you replace just the pump or the entire HFCM? You may also want to pull the regulator apart and make sure the o'rings are in good shape and that they are all there, if your truck uses that black bushing that comes in the blue spring kit make sure it has an o'ring between it and the housing.</p> Disregard the question on HFCM replacement as i see you've already done that.</p>
Have to solve my hydra lock issue also.
I'm sure it's from a injector stuck open.
I command started the truck(yes it's frosty mornings already in Canada)
And when I jumped in I forgot to put in the key when I hit brake it died and would not start again.
Would kind of crank but hit the cylinder with fuel and would go no more.
I charged the batteries up just to check and even hooked up another running diesel.
How is the best way to clear it out when I go to change the injectors.
Can you just crank when injectors are out with the fuel pump fuse pulled.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.