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I picked up a 1993 F250 for $500. It is a 351W , auto tranny, 2wd, full floating rear with 3.55 gears. The truck "runs". Just it is very hard to start. Previous owner said you have to turn key on and off about 10 times. Then start playing with the throttle. Once it was running it would want to die out till it ran for about 5 minutes. Then it would idle on it's own. It would still be hard to restart. Going to see if I can get it running good. If not it'll be a parts truck. Think I got a good score? Also any ideas as to where to look for issues. I am going to try and pull codes.
Here is the only pic I have now. The interior is burgundy. It has air, power windows and locks. This truck will be a great parts truck or beater. Just gotta figure out why she don't wanna run. I did notice the tube to the EGR valve off the passenger manifold is missing a 3" section. Also it came with new plugs & wires so I'll install them. I'm kinda hoping this might be an F4TE block... I doubt it tho....
Definitely a good score! It'll be great if you can get it running right, but if not it's worth more than what you paid in parts, and then you scrap whatever parts you don't need and can't sell. It's a win win situation.
Kinda an update on this thing. I can get it to fire up with easy if I give it a shot of starting fluid. The plug wires cap and rotor all look to have not been replaced in the last 5 years. I have to keep my foot lightly on the throttle to keep it going. Once warmed up it idles fine. Even when in drive. I tried to drive it and you have to go easy in to the throttle. I mean like trying to walk on egg shells without breaking them. I can get the RPMs higher in park then when driving. I have not had the $ to purchase a fuel pressure tester yet. IACV looks like it is working. When the truck doesn't start and cold I hear a bunch of relays clicking around the engine.This truck should be Speed Density correct?
Air, fuel, and spark make up combustion. If it's not running right, you've got an issue with one of them. If you don't have a fuel pressure gauge, that's kinda hard to diagnose. I'd look at air first because it's simple. Check for vacuum leaks too.
I'd be looking at the coolant temp sensor for the stalling while cold issue, and ignition components (especially since they haven't been changed in 5 years) for the hesitation when accelerating issue.
As far as having to cycle the key before starting it, that indicates that the fuel pump check valve is allowing the gas to drain back to the tank when the truck is shut off.
Thanks for the tips guys. I will for sure swing by Autozone and get a gauge and cap/rotor.
Bob Gervais I never knew of a check valve in the pump. Learn something new every day. Good to know, thank you. I'm not going to put to much time or $ into trying to get this thing running. Just if I could sell it vs totally using it as parts I figured I'd try.
Thanks for the tips guys. I will for sure swing by Autozone and get a gauge and cap/rotor.
Bob Gervais I never knew of a check valve in the pump. Learn something new every day. Good to know, thank you. I'm not going to put to much time or $ into trying to get this thing running. Just if I could sell it vs totally using it as parts I figured I'd try.
Yep, prevents back flow. I'm not sure if it's part of the pump, or part of the selector valve in a dual tank system, but I know they exist.
Honestly, it's not really that big of a deal if you get the rest of the truck's issues squared away. Part of your long cranking/rough running when cold issues are more likely to be the coolant temp sensor.