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Help, priming with Ospho.

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Old Sep 24, 2013 | 12:54 PM
  #1  
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Help, priming with Ospho.

So after a search, I've learned a few things but not exaclty what I'm looking for.

I'm attempting (Zero experience with body work) to repair a few mild rust spots around fenders on my F250.

I have purchased the ospho and the duplicolor spray can of match paint.

Now I'm trying to figure out what would be the cheapest, best working primer to use with the ospho. I have read that PPG DPLF and kirker enduro work well but I'm looking to find something cheaper and maybe more readily availble if possible (possibly if there is something I could use from an autoparts store or a lowes,ect?)

I called ospho and they were really not a lot of help in that regard. I know the primer has to be oil based.

Is there anything else I might consider using in addition to these products? Any suggestions or advice would be GREATLY appreciated.

Thanks for reading!
 
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Old Sep 24, 2013 | 02:09 PM
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I would make a trip to the local auto paint supply store...they can look at the msds (that you bring) and be your best source.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2013 | 10:46 PM
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Cheaper? Enduro is about $25/qt and catalyst about $18/qt. If you are not using a catalyzed paint you should consider that for the primer. Certainly want something water proof and no 1K spray can primer can promise that for long.
 
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Old Sep 25, 2013 | 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by tbm3fan
Cheaper? Enduro is about $25/qt and catalyst about $18/qt. If you are not using a catalyzed paint you should consider that for the primer. Certainly want something water proof and no 1K spray can primer can promise that for long.
How do I find out if its a catalyzed paint? What I'm using is the dupilicolor spray can of match paint from autozone.

I found a shop locally that carries the PPG DPLF epoxy primer and they said its runs about $62/qt and requires that I add some kind of hardener to it that runs $37/qt. Does this sound right?

I explained what I was using it for and they said there were cheaper options but I was unaware that I actually needed to purchase 2 products for the priming portion of this job.

Excuse the lack of knowledge, I'm just learning this paint/body thing. Thanks.
 
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Old Sep 25, 2013 | 01:12 PM
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Catalyzed paints are ones with a hardener that is added. They are a 2 part (2K) paint. This causes a chemical reaction and the paint will harden even if not exposed to air. That's the difference. 1 part (1K) paints require air exposure in order to harden.

That's actually a pretty good price for the DPLF and hardener. Of course, you'd need a spray gun to run those through. A cheaper solution would be to use a spray can that has a 2K epoxy primer in it. Activation is done by hitting a plug on the bottom that combines the two parts inside the can. Once activated you have about 3 days to use it before it will harden in the spray can. Amazon is just an example. It's available at a lot of paint supply stores. I've used a couple of cans in the past and the spray pattern is great it covers very well. Don't try to sand an epoxy primer. Price is close to $30 for one can. Not cheap, but it is good stuff.

Amazon.com: USC 2K Spray Max Epoxy Primer Paint Aerosol: Automotive Amazon.com: USC 2K Spray Max Epoxy Primer Paint Aerosol: Automotive
 
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Old Sep 25, 2013 | 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by TA455HO
Catalyzed paints are ones with a hardener that is added. They are a 2 part (2K) paint. This causes a chemical reaction and the paint will harden even if not exposed to air. That's the difference. 1 part (1K) paints require air exposure in order to harden.

That's actually a pretty good price for the DPLF and hardener. Of course, you'd need a spray gun to run those through. A cheaper solution would be to use a spray can that has a 2K epoxy primer in it. Activation is done by hitting a plug on the bottom that combines the two parts inside the can. Once activated you have about 3 days to use it before it will harden in the spray can. Amazon is just an example. It's available at a lot of paint supply stores. I've used a couple of cans in the past and the spray pattern is great it covers very well. Don't try to sand an epoxy primer. Price is close to $30 for one can. Not cheap, but it is good stuff.

Amazon.com: USC 2K Spray Max Epoxy Primer Paint Aerosol: Automotive

Awesome, thank you for the info! So would it be a good idea to use this 2K epoxy primer even if the duplicolor paint I am using is not a catalyzed paint? I called dupli-color and they said that the perfect match paint that I'm using is NOT a catalyzed paint and that it would be considered acrylic lacquer based.

The guy I spoke with recommeded that I use a alkyd base primer with the perfect match paint, but of course he did not know how that would work out with ospho, which reccommends an oil based primer? I'm lost. lol.. ??? Thoughts? I appreciate the help!
 
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Old Sep 25, 2013 | 03:08 PM
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Take it to Macco
 
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Old Sep 25, 2013 | 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by arctic y block
Take it to Macco
probably not a half bad idea at this point !

I also found this stuff which hopefully may work too, a few bucks cheaper..

Eastwood 2K Aero-Spray Aerosol Epoxy Primer Paint Gray : Amazon.com : Automotive Eastwood 2K Aero-Spray Aerosol Epoxy Primer Paint Gray : Amazon.com : Automotive
 
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Old Sep 26, 2013 | 12:22 AM
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Originally Posted by 85F150rd
probably not a half bad idea at this point !

I also found this stuff which hopefully may work too, a few bucks cheaper..

Eastwood 2K Aero-Spray Aerosol Epoxy Primer Paint Gray : Amazon.com : Automotive
Anytime you use an acid based rust killer you have to be careful with your choice of primer. Typically etch primers are a no no with any phosphoric acid rust killers. Some epoxies also. With them you have to read their ingredients in order to know. Since I have never had the need for the Eastwood primer, I use DPLF and Enduro, I have no idea what is in it.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2013 | 12:19 PM
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Thanks for the info. From what I have learned, it appears that the 2k epoxy primer is okay to use with the ospho, but I am not 100%. If the dupli-color spray paint I'm using is not catalyzed, would be okay to use with either of the epxoy primers shown above from amazon?
 
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Old Sep 27, 2013 | 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by tbm3fan
Anytime you use an acid based rust killer you have to be careful with your choice of primer. Typically etch primers are a no no with any phosphoric acid rust killers. Some epoxies also. With them you have to read their ingredients in order to know. Since I have never had the need for the Eastwood primer, I use DPLF and Enduro, I have no idea what is in it.
Originally Posted by TA455HO
Catalyzed paints are ones with a hardener that is added. They are a 2 part (2K) paint. This causes a chemical reaction and the paint will harden even if not exposed to air. That's the difference. 1 part (1K) paints require air exposure in order to harden.

That's actually a pretty good price for the DPLF and hardener. Of course, you'd need a spray gun to run those through. A cheaper solution would be to use a spray can that has a 2K epoxy primer in it. Activation is done by hitting a plug on the bottom that combines the two parts inside the can. Once activated you have about 3 days to use it before it will harden in the spray can. Amazon is just an example. It's available at a lot of paint supply stores. I've used a couple of cans in the past and the spray pattern is great it covers very well. Don't try to sand an epoxy primer. Price is close to $30 for one can. Not cheap, but it is good stuff.

Amazon.com: USC 2K Spray Max Epoxy Primer Paint Aerosol: Automotive
So I contacted eastwood, and they said that none of their products will work with my paint and the ospho.

Still trying to figure out if I can use my NON catalyzed dupli-color paint with ospho and any kind of 2k epoxy primer. guess I'll be contacting this USC company next.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2013 | 02:21 AM
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There is a very good thread about Ospho on hotrodders.com.

It has to be neutralized before you put anything over it, or you will have problems.

No paint manufacturer will tell you their product is compatible with Ospho because of this.

I'm not a painter or a bodyman by any means, though I have painted several cars and repaired a few over the years, but I can tell you that many people who do this for a living refuse to use any kind of 'rust preventer' or 'rust remover' of any kind period.

I don't know what kind of repair you are attempting, or on what, but my advice to you would be to wait before buying anything and spend the time learning a bit about what it is you want to do.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2013 | 10:40 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by bdelmar2
There is a very good thread about Ospho on hotrodders.com.

It has to be neutralized before you put anything over it, or you will have problems.

No paint manufacturer will tell you their product is compatible with Ospho because of this.

I'm not a painter or a bodyman by any means, though I have painted several cars and repaired a few over the years, but I can tell you that many people who do this for a living refuse to use any kind of 'rust preventer' or 'rust remover' of any kind period.

I don't know what kind of repair you are attempting, or on what, but my advice to you would be to wait before buying anything and spend the time learning a bit about what it is you want to do.
Basically I have a few spots of rust just inside the rear wheel well, and also a few spots on the rear quarter (I guess you'd call it) its right behind the rear tire but before the bumper.. rocker panel rock chips that have grown.

The metal appears still intact no holes or anything.. here are a few pictures.

How should I fix this?!





 
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