I have an 04/99 F250 with a bad front passenger bearing. I'm not sure if it has ABS or not (just haven't checked), but it doesn't apply to my question right now.

Everything I've been reading has been pointing to having to replace the complete hubs instead of just the bearings, but then I saw one comment that made me think otherwise. So I figured I'd just ask...

Can I just replace the bearings or is that not really possible and complete hubs are necessary? If that's the case - how do I tell if I have the course or fine threads?

Thanks in advance.

P.S. - a couple product details talk about the flange thickness. Also - how do I tell whether I have the thick 13mm flanges versus the thinner 10mm flanges?

 

You'll need to replace the whole unit. Here's a link to a ball joint replacement. If your ball joints are good you'll only need the bearing portion but I like this one because it has good pics. If you need balljoints now would be a good time to do it all.
Ford Super Duty Ball Joint Replacement Procedure | Superdutypsd.com

And a thread

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...placement.html

and another

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...f-150-4x4.html


As for coarse or fine I took a lug nut to Napa and asked to see a hub they had in stock and matched it. Mine were coarse. I have found that for some reason the hubs with ABS sensors cost less than the ones without but are otherwise the same. My truck doesn't have front abs but I went with the hubs that had the sensors. The added benifit is that with the abs sensor you can grease what is supposed to be a non greaseable bearing unit. Here's a rather long thread but worth looking at about greasing your bearings.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...cs-here-9.html

Others will argue and only time will tell but I went with the Napa bearing units at $105 each instead of Timkens or one of the other higher priced ones. I may regret it 20 or 300000 miles from now but we'll see.

As for the rotor thickness I know they changed around 99-2000 but will have to let the more knowledgeable school us on that one.

 

Are there large correlations between ball joints failures and wheel bearings going out? In other words, why did you bring up the ball joint issues and post a couple links to threads about them in a wheel bearing section? I'm not being a douche - I'm really curious if there's something I'm missing.

Another question I had is the 4 studs on the back side of the hub - I'm assuming these aren't provided with the hub assemblies? If they're not, I have access to a torch, but it's my dad's and limit requests to borrow it. Just wondering where I could get them from, and how much they run.

Thanks again.

 

The Timken units sold at autozone HAVE the 4 studs (don’t know about other units). That’s good advice about taking a lug nut with you to thread on the new unit, just to be sure. There is no correlation between ball joint and hub failure, he was just posting one of the best tutorials with pictures we have. Also, since you will have most of the front assembly apart, now would be a good time to evaluate your ball joints and replace them if in doubt, that’s all he was alluding to.

 

What Matt said about the Ball Joints.

It's just an Item that doesn't last forever on these trucks. Jack the front of the truck to get the tires just off the ground, Have someone else put a crowbar or other item they can get some leverage with and raise and lower the tire just a little while you watch the ball joints. Hopefully they don't move but if like mine there will be slop and it's time to replace.

The bearing units I got from Napa also had new studs with them but not the yellow orings.

 

I just did this replacement and got studs from dealer $20 for all four

 

What do you guys think about this?

1999 Ford F250 Truck Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly - AM Autoparts

I realize it's not the Timken, so I'm sure a lot of people won't recommend it, but has anyone had experience with these?

Also - what else will I need in addition? Yellow O-ring and the 4 mounting bolts? Anything else?

Thanks, guys!

 

Most manufacturers include the four bolts and the yellow oring with the hub. You need to CHECK THE BOX before you leave the store to make sure they are there! Many people buy the hub, steal the oring and studs, and return the hub. They then buy the cheaper hubs that DO NOT come with those parts and save money. The young guys working at the auto parts stores don't know to check for those things when the hub is returned.

I like AM Autoparts. That unit comes with the studs already installed for you and should have the o-ring on the unit as well. It is, however, cheap for a reason.

 

Something I wouldn't go cheap on unless your getting rid of the truck.

 

So is the one listed above considered cheap? Is that was you were getting at?

 

I think most would consider that one cheap. As to wether or not it will last who knows. It would be nice if some of the folks here who had tried some cheaper ones could share with us. As you have probably discoverd they range from just under $100 to over $400 each. Most people feel like they can trust Timken but you will pay for them. I've always had good luck with most anything Napa sells so I rolled the dice when I changed mine. If it works out I saved $200 to $600. If not, Oh well, it will only take me a couple of hours to change them again and I'll report back to the Brotherhood.

 

Ask AM-Auto who the manufacturer is on that before you purchase it. They are not mentioning it for some reason. Autozone carries the Timkens if you need the convenience of being able to get them right away, otherwise ordering online might save you a few dollars. The "house" brand hubs at Advance and Autozone are notorious for lasting right at a year before the bearings fail. If you don't mind doing them again at that point, you could take a chance on those. You might get lucky and have them last 2-3 years.

 

Ok - guys - I found a good price on the Timken's, but I'm thinking there's an issue.

Check these out...

Timken/Wheel Bearing/Hub Assembly-Front (515020) | 1999 Ford F250 Super Duty P/U 4WD 8 Cylinders F 7.3L Turbo Diesel | AutoZone.com

It says the bolt count is 5? Does that make any sense? Like I said - it shows that it will fit my vehicle, but I just want to make sure.

And does anyone know if the one from AutoZone comes with the O-ring and the mounting bolts (I'm thinking yes to the bolts), but want to make sure about the O-ring? Thanks, guys.

 

Any thoughts? I'd like to order this today to make sure I get this killer price if I'm able to, but I would love to have you guys blessing before placing the order.

Thanks.

 

I would call the 800 # and ask them about studs and oring. I think you can order it delivered to a local store. Take a lug nut with you to make sure it will fit and check it over at the store. If it's not right you can return it right there. Or call your local store and see if they have in stock and can match internet price. It's Timken so if it fits you should be good. i think the 5 bolt is a misprint