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Haven't been on here in awhile.
Discouraged as the truck won't start.
Have had the started checked twice over the years during the build... Started fine last year.
Anyone got a 6 volt flathead 8 started they don't need?
Yeah, cables are good... (started well last year)
Battery is good.
Doesn't turn over, clicks once.
Took it out and it turns when given power.
I'm questioning 'torque'????
Cable connections retightened - jump solinoid to see if it turns over TRUCK IN NEUTRAL AND WHEELS BLOCKED - Have battery checked under load - all these things can be done for cost of energy and time.
A good 90% of the time starter "drag" is simply worn bushings. Bad bushings
causes a bad relationship between the amature and brushes and generally
puts a higher load on the whole thing. Like driving with the brakes on.
Two bushings set of brushes. Clean amature, carefully clean mica segments
#400 wet sandpaper, all though being back yard proper, this will get you there.
Proper is to true it on a lathe. Bushings are pretty much standard Napa...
dont bother going there and say flathead say dimentions. Most today dont
know what the hell a flathead is.
Hey Steve. Do what the proverb in your signature said.
First see if the engine turns by hand freely. If so than jump across the solenoid on inner fender. If it wont turn with a free engine jumping across the two big posts on the solenoid than we can assume the starter is bad. Or bad connections.
We need more information Bubba.
On Edit: Don't force the engine to turn by hand if it turns hard. Like it is stuck even a little. Ya will for sure prolly do some valve damage.
The 11365 pin is prone to brake as well. Then everything comes apart.
Generally when the engine kicks back while starting is when I have
broken them most often.
The 11365 pin is prone to brake as well. Then everything comes apart.
Generally when the engine kicks back while starting is when I have
broken them most often.
Owned a '47 Ford Deluxe Coupe with 40K actual miles, starter turned over soooo slowly when engine was hot, that I replaced the 6V battery with a 6/12 battery.
Had a 12V solenoid mounted on battery, started on 12V, ran on 6V. Worked like a charm.
Another option would have been to replace the 6V w/an 8V battery. I did this on a 1950 Olds 88, it also worked like a charm, but all the bulbs burned out faster.
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