Haven't been on here in awhile.
Discouraged as the truck won't start.
Have had the started checked twice over the years during the build... Started fine last year.

Anyone got a 6 volt flathead 8 started they don't need?

 

Whats the starter doing? - Not turning, Turning to slow? Getting hot?
More info needed so you spend money in the right place

 

Just get it rebuilt...

 

Ask around at your auto parts stores about who rebuilds them in your area. Go there and have them test it. They will be cheaper then new.

 

Cables big enough? 6V requires big diameter cables and good grounds.

 

Yeah, cables are good... (started well last year)
Battery is good.
Doesn't turn over, clicks once.
Took it out and it turns when given power.
I'm questioning 'torque'????

 

How long has it been sitting? Does the engine turn freely by hand or a wrench on the crank? If you have a stuck valve or two it won't turn over.....

 

Cable connections retightened - jump solinoid to see if it turns over TRUCK IN NEUTRAL AND WHEELS BLOCKED - Have battery checked under load - all these things can be done for cost of energy and time.

 

A good 90% of the time starter "drag" is simply worn bushings. Bad bushings
causes a bad relationship between the amature and brushes and generally
puts a higher load on the whole thing. Like driving with the brakes on.
Two bushings set of brushes. Clean amature, carefully clean mica segments
#400 wet sandpaper, all though being back yard proper, this will get you there.
Proper is to true it on a lathe. Bushings are pretty much standard Napa...
dont bother going there and say flathead say dimentions. Most today dont
know what the hell a flathead is.

 

Hey Steve. Do what the proverb in your signature said.

First see if the engine turns by hand freely. If so than jump across the solenoid on inner fender. If it wont turn with a free engine jumping across the two big posts on the solenoid than we can assume the starter is bad. Or bad connections.

We need more information Bubba.

On Edit: Don't force the engine to turn by hand if it turns hard. Like it is stuck even a little. Ya will for sure prolly do some valve damage.

 

The Bendix Starter Drive's HUGE coil spring can break, the teeth of the Bendix will not engage the flywheel teeth.

Removing Bendix from armature: The coil spring has to be unwound by hand to access the roll pin. Drive it out, Bendix comes off.

But, it takes muscle to rewind that fracatta spring!

18-11057 .. Starter Motor Brush Set (Motorcraft SB-2) ~ 1932/59 trucks/Ford Passenger Cars / Some 1960/72 Trucks.

 

The 11365 pin is prone to brake as well. Then everything comes apart.
Generally when the engine kicks back while starting is when I have
broken them most often.

 

Owned a '47 Ford Deluxe Coupe with 40K actual miles, starter turned over soooo slowly when engine was hot, that I replaced the 6V battery with a 6/12 battery.

Had a 12V solenoid mounted on battery, started on 12V, ran on 6V. Worked like a charm.

Another option would have been to replace the 6V w/an 8V battery. I did this on a 1950 Olds 88, it also worked like a charm, but all the bulbs burned out faster.