1990 DD build
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Joined: Oct 2011
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From: British Columbia Canada
1990 DD build
Im sorta new to this, mostly used the site for helping me when i was stuck on something and now I think it's time to give back so here's my first build any tips will be appreciated. So I picked up a 1990 short box reg cab 4x4 std yesterday. This truck sat for 2 years and the body shows it, so far I've started redoing the cab corners, I've reset the coil spring that was ready to blow out at any time, my brother has started to sand down the very faded wore out red paint. The next week will be full of patching all the body rust( only focusing on the cab and front clip for now). I know I need a e-brake cable and a speed sensor, not sure what else yet as I was worried about doing any jacking or crawling around until the coil was back in place. This is now my 2nd short wheel base, last one was a 96 lifted 3".
Will post more updates as I finish up some of the work.
(Not sure how to post pics yet)
Will post more updates as I finish up some of the work.
(Not sure how to post pics yet)
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2011
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with a truck in that shape, i'd assume the body mounts are crusty as (insert obscenity here). so, if youre separating the body to replace body mounts, you misewell take one more step and blast the frame and take rust preventative steps. you can replace all your suspension bushings easily this way, have access to gas tanks, and all sorts of other stuff that owners of old rusty trucks rip their hair out having to chase down with the truck all together. you'll inevitably find something that will make you glad you did the extra work, and also makes access to body repair easier.
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From: British Columbia Canada
Short term is just to have a truck that will get me to the ski hill and to work to plow snow this winter, long term..... Not sure what route I'm going yet, still tossing around ideas with the long term....
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From: British Columbia Canada
with a truck in that shape, i'd assume the body mounts are crusty as (insert obscenity here). so, if youre separating the body to replace body mounts, you misewell take one more step and blast the frame and take rust preventative steps. you can replace all your suspension bushings easily this way, have access to gas tanks, and all sorts of other stuff that owners of old rusty trucks rip their hair out having to chase down with the truck all together. you'll inevitably find something that will make you glad you did the extra work, and also makes access to body repair easier.
How do you attach photos?!?
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From: British Columbia Canada
Update
So I've done a once over as well as a quick rip up the road an here's what I've found, ebrake cable, speed sensor, power steering pump, shift linkage(hitting my knuckles off of dash in 1st), brake light and I should be on the road for the winter, body mounts and stabilizer bushings are on the brink but will wait till spring for them. Other then that the frame/drivetrain is in great shape compared to the body of the truck.
I'm not sure what to do about the box yet( suggestions welcome!)
Here's my choices, flat bed it, get new box sides, or a s*** ton of metal work and cursing, not sure how to post pics here so pics are in my garage
I'm not sure what to do about the box yet( suggestions welcome!)
Here's my choices, flat bed it, get new box sides, or a s*** ton of metal work and cursing, not sure how to post pics here so pics are in my garage
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From: British Columbia Canada
So here's an update. Drivers side has all rust removed and replaced, final bit of body full left to do, got new fenders and doors for free from a old f350 work truck that's been retired(doors and fenders are less then 5 years old). Cab is about 55% prepped for paint. Ebrake has been fixed, speed sensor had been replaced. Ebrake was about $70 and speed sensor $20. I'm trying to do this build on a very tight budget. 3weeks and it's gotta be on the road. Doing good so far.
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From: British Columbia Canada
So I've gotten a lot done since my last post, rust is all cut out and replaced with new metal, trucks painted and all back together, today I'm putting in all new ebrake cables and power steering box, new brake lights(the old ones are very brittle to the point 4 out of 8 screws snapped right out of the plastic). The box sides were so far gone I spend about 5 hours per side getting them back to decent looking, going to be replacing them in the near future but no rush on that. New cab corners, doors, and fenders. I decided to go with the flat black and with the Crome on the custom package I don't know why ford didn't have that option from the factory, it looks sweet! Still haven't figured out my speedometer problem, changed two of the sensors and still not getting a reading. Few minor problems to deal with but by the beginning of the week I should be driving it! Will post a few pics in my garage
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Joined: Oct 2011
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From: British Columbia Canada
Thanks. Just left the parts store with new tail pipe, ebrake cables, windsheild washer pump. Tail lights are on order... Putting some plates on her now and spend the afternoon installing everything and hopefully this rain will make some mud to go try her out in.... Still have a front axle to change so only running 2wd for now till I make a trip to the salvage yard for a new axle. Really looking forward to taking it for a drive, haven't had it out of 2nd gear on my street yet! Will keep posting as more is done.
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Well I got my tail pipe on, all new ebrake cables put on, new plugs, wires i want wont be in till tues, gotta order my tail lights on Monday, but it's road worthy and plated now. Mind you i have no speedometer or dome light, I have one fuse that keeps blowing instantly so there's a gremlin in there some where. Took it for a test drive( works great!) but had a head light completely blow up and when I shut it off and went to go back out I had no headlights(but have high beems). So now I'm sitting here on the couch looking for wiring diagrams to figure out if this is one bad circuit or I have a hole slew of problems on the go..... Sigh gonna be a long day tomorrow....
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To post pictures, you can use Photobucket (or something like that), and then post the link here.
Is it fuse #8 that keeps blowing? That'll definitely make your speedo not work. I had the same issue with mine, and it turned out to be the courtesy lights on the sun visors. As soon as I unplugged them, the fuse stopped blowing.
Is it fuse #8 that keeps blowing? That'll definitely make your speedo not work. I had the same issue with mine, and it turned out to be the courtesy lights on the sun visors. As soon as I unplugged them, the fuse stopped blowing.
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Ok I will make a photo bucket account today some time and post all the pictures I have.
And it is the #8 fuse, I have both courtesy lights disconnected and it it still blowing as soon as the battery is hooked up... That fuse also runs the stereo and the last guy put in an aftermarket and ran a wire direct to the fuse box for power.... So my guess if I can find the old power wire I should find my problem... I have the app on my phone for a speedo for the time being but would really like to have an accurate reading. Half tempted to put a jumper wire but then I may find my problem in a very bad way....
And it is the #8 fuse, I have both courtesy lights disconnected and it it still blowing as soon as the battery is hooked up... That fuse also runs the stereo and the last guy put in an aftermarket and ran a wire direct to the fuse box for power.... So my guess if I can find the old power wire I should find my problem... I have the app on my phone for a speedo for the time being but would really like to have an accurate reading. Half tempted to put a jumper wire but then I may find my problem in a very bad way....
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From: British Columbia Canada
Still haven't figured out my head light problem, have high beems but no low beam....
Here's the link to my slide show of pics
1990 F150 Slideshow by chris_connors1 | Photobucket
Here's the link to my slide show of pics
1990 F150 Slideshow by chris_connors1 | Photobucket