I'm off to ramble through the archives and see what I can discover about a 12 volt conversion because I'm sure it's been flogged previously. Currently the '52 is still 6v pos gnd, but it's tough to ignore the utility and convenience of good ol' 12v neg gnd.

The look of the original generator really is more appealing to me than a squat little alternator, and I saw that 12v gennys as well as conversion kits are available. So that's a good workaround for appearance.

Purely a case of opinion, I know, but I'd like to know what you guys with the older 6 volt trucks approached this. I like the thought of originality, but there are already things I plan to do that won't be original and having a show vehicle ain't my thing. I've got a 1951 Farmall Super A that has been converted and I gotta say, it sure makes life a lot easier with jump starting, battery replacement, etc.

Off to edumacate myself from the prior experiences of others.

 

I'm on the fence with this one too. Subscribing to see what others have to say!

 

For my truck, it will remain a 6 volt system ('49 F-2, flat 8).

One of the things many people don't seem to consider, is why they went to 12 volt to begin with.

Consider: When vehicles began to get away from magnetos, somewhere in the 'teens, and go to a storage battery and charging system, the reason was to be able to have electric start, and better illumination, both convenience and safety issues (no more broken arms, and you could finally see where your going, along with others seeing you). The system of choice was 6 volts.

From that time forward, literally decades, 6 volt systems ruled supreme. They obviously worked well enough. Got us through two world wars, and into the post WWII years of economic boom times.

But then, quite abruptly, they vanished. The reason? The increased voltage and amperage draws of high compression overhead valve engines mostly, plus the expanded line of electricity hungry options such as AC, power windows, lock, courtesy lighting, etc. Poor old 6 volt could not compete.

Knowing the above, it stands to reason that there should really be nothing wrong with keeping an original vehicle original with 6 volts. Now, many will bleat about the poor starting of the old systems, cold weather issues, etc. My response: crap.

Yes, that old flathead will spin over faster with 12 volts, but if it is in good tune, it should not need the extra rpms, even when cold out. The low compression engines of the 40s on back, if you will remember, were initially designed to be started by hand (note the hole in the grille of the '48-'50 Fords). And in cold weather to boot.

Now, if you want modern amenities such as AC, a stereo, etc., yet keep the flattie, you nearly have to go with 12v, but with an original truck, 6 volt will certainly suffice, and work well.

I am no doubt prejudiced, but can only look at the issue both logically, and from experience. In the 40 plus years I have driven my truck, original 6 volt system, I have never, ever, had starting issues. The only time the truck became iffy, was when the temperature went south of zero. And then, it was mostly due to running a too heavy of oil for the prevailing conditions, something that even the Ford manuals of the day specifically warn about.

Just my opinion, but one I think is valid. Not against 12 volt, just don't see much of a need for original type vehicles. Modifieds, sure.

 

Amen brother!

 

Bahhhhh! C'mon, they also burned 60 octane gas, used straight grade non-detergent oil, and replaced engines after 50,000 miles. There's a better idea and it's called the alternator. They are far simpler than generator/regulators, far more reliable, and they're far cheaper. I have had the same 12v battery for 8 years. How many 6v batteries last that long?! The last 6v I had cost $30 more than a similar-sized 12v, and only lasted a year. (same brand) That was enough to convince me (well, that and I wanted a radio)

 

OK, the first sentence has zero bearing on the electrical system.

The second sentence is only partly correct. Alternators are better, that is not the question, and is not in dispute. As far as simplicity, the alternator is on par with a generator as far as complexity goes. Big difference is commutator rings versus brushes, and how they are wired. The big difference is the regulator. A vehicle with an alternator has a far more complex regulator. Why? An alternator produces alternating current, not direct or DC. Therefore, in addition to regulating the output of the alternator, the regulator must also rectify that voltage, hence, added complexity.

That said, the modern regulators are indeed more reliable, for they use circuitry instead of mechanical means to do their job. So, comparing the two, you may as well say "Hell, that POS carb is mechanical, and such a contraption, I'll just go with EFI!" You could also convert to electronic ignition too. Both are infinitely more reliable than their mechanical counterparts.

But then, you may just as well go out a buy a new vehicle, and save yourself the trouble.

Lastly, in the 31 years I have owned my truck, I have replaced the battery maybe four times. That is pretty good service. There is zero quality difference between 6 volt and twelve volt, it is all in how well the manufacturer assembles the damn thing. All things equal, the cells in both types will last the same amount of time.

And yes, a 6 volt battery MAY cost more. That is dependent to a great degree on where you live. Here in southern Indiana, which is largely rural, my 6 volt cost less than the battery for my Jeep Grand Cherokee, and was readily available.

 

It's all about where you draw the line. If you've had good luck with generators and regulators, go for it. I spent much of my youth trying to figure out whether the generator was bad, or the regulator, and replacing them. If you live in an area where the engine is idling a lot, in traffic, the battery will be perpetually charging/discharging, that reduces their life. Out in the country where you run without interruption, maybe not such an issue.

I would add EFI to my flathead if were reasonable to do so!

 

I am also an advocate of keeping 6V. I have only converted one vehicle to 12V (added A/C, a 4 speaker radio conversion, and a 12V power socket for charging laptops and such) and I kept a generator. I have assembled several 12V generators for flatheads (and one for a 55 pickup) following botched alternator installations by others.

I like generators. Generators will charge dead batteries. With a generator you can disconnect the battery with the engine running. Brushes, bearings, and bushings for a generator are cheap. I have not had a good working generator regulator fail on me. I have seen several new regulators that wouldn't regulate worth a darn.

 

You are in N.M., and I can see where batteries for a 6V system would cost more, so in your case, it makes sense.

Another factor is the hot weather as you say, and you guys have that in spades. Many folks do not realize that scorching heat is as destructive of a cell, as is the cold, perhaps more so. I read an article once that stated that most battery failures occurred in the summer.

Lastly, and this goes back to my second post, modern regulators are more reliable, they are electronic instead of mechanical. It would be great if we could get an electrical regulator for the 6V system (maybe there is an electronic equivalent, never looked), as they not only last longer (generally), but they are more accurate in their regulation, which improves the longevity of the battery.

All I was saying, was that the 6V sytem can made to do serviceable duty, and be very reliable, it was not a Yugo system, fraught with never ending problems. They accomplished their task admirably for many decades, but were eclipsed by time and technology. Just like the flathead and leaf springs, straight front axles, etc.

I get a hoot out of those who see me in Gertie, and say how much better these old trucks were. Yeah, they put a lot of quality into them, and certainly a lot of iron, which accounts for their lasting as it takes longer for them to rot down. But when it comes to comfort, reliabilty, power, and ease of operation and maintenance, my Grand Cherokee has the '49 smoked. Badly.

My old truck is what it is, nothing more, and that is why I like her. Keeping it 6V just adds to that flavor.

 

Well we can debate the pros and cons this afternoon.

 

It will be a long time before I need to make this decision for my project, but since the topic has come up, let me pose a question for the gurus of this site.

My concern is not originality or complexity, but one concerning vision. As I get older, my night sight is not what it used to be. Which system 6V or 12V will give me better night lighting, or, does it matter?

 

Correction: Generators use commutators and brushes, alternators use slip rings. I screwed up.

Began looking at what I wrote, and a little voiced said: Bulls**t.

Although in large power generation alternators are considered simpler, for our purposes in autos, there is little difference between generators and alternators. Again, the brushes are the difference.

A few tidbits of information I gathered as I was checking my facts today:

*Our generators are actually dynamos, as they produce DC voltages. Still generators, but of the dynamo type.

*The 12V system became the norm in the 1950's, but was no different in construction from 6V systems of the day, just higher voltages. Still used a generator (dynamo), with a mechanical regulator. Slap three more cells to that battery, and crank up the voltage adjustment on the regulator.

*The alternator was introduced in the 1960s due to the advent of the silicon diode (can we all say "solid state" kiddies?) rectifier.

 

12V, no question. If you have an old regulator that is of the adjustable type, you can tweak up the voltage to make the lights brighter, but there is a point where you start to degrade filaments, gauges, etc.

Another thing about a modern system, is that you will not have the dimming when at stop lights, etc. Again, better regulation.

 

I thought I have seen both Halogen and LED head lights for 6V in one of my catalogs.

 

Some useful information when considering whether to go 12V, or stay with the old 6V system.

When looking at your requirements, consider how much power you are going to need. For example, if you want brighter lights, you can only achieve it either through more power, or greater efficiency. The LED route is the efficient one, halogen requires more power.

In electricity, power is expressed in watts.

There is a cool little equation that allows us to find out how much voltage and amperage it takes to produce a given amount of watts, or power.

Think pastry: your favorite PIE.

P=I x E (The "X" is the multiplication symbol.)

P is Power in Watts
I is current flow measured in Amperage
E is the force of that current flow (think water pressure, current is volume or amount) expressed in Volts.

Don't take a rocket surgeon to figger out that you need to up either the amps or the volts to get more wattage. And therein is the problem with 6V systems. To produce the same power output as a 12V system, you have to really increase the amperage.

There will be a test tomorrow.