There is a lot of wisdom in what AX wrote..........a little harsh maybe, but all true.

 

Yep, this about sums it up.

 

Wasn't meant as harsh or even aimed specifically at the poster, English doesn't have a different generalized "you". Just the bare and honest truth that I would tell anyone. Even offer of help.

 

Actually have found three bird nests behind my visor panel, still haven't figured how to get them out. Truck sat with no glass for a number of years before I got it.

 

I would and will listen to AXracer. He makes a lot of sense. At least you've started...I'm still at least one and probably two years away from getting started,but in the meantime I'm learning from the rest of you. Thanks to all of you!

 

I did a post in the last month or two about how to make a plan that makes sense.

Anyone that has made at least 10 posts should be able to use the advanced search function, a powerful way to find answers to a multitude of questions and concerns on here:
1. click search v in the med blue bar just below the 2 color FTE logo above the forum header.
2. Here's the secret: click the advanced search choice at the bottom of the drop down box.
3. An Advanced Search page will open.
4, Fill in the search parameter boxes. First the keyword(s), try several keyword searches related to your needs. The more specific the phrase and/or combination of keywords you use the more specific the search will be. Start with a specific search then simplify if you don't get what you want: example. First search might be "pitman arm for 56 F100 with Toyota power steering conversion" may get you what you want, but the search will return only posts that contain all the search keywords in that exact order since they were in quotes. If you want to see more posts try the keywords "pitman arm", "toyota conversion" (note quotes and comma) to find all posts that contained term pitman arm AND/OR toyota conversion. Key word pitman only will return anything ever posted about pitman arms, shafts, guy who work in the pits, or anything else with that word in it! A single keyword search is a good way to find hours of reading if you are bored or are sitting on the john "studying".
5. Put AXracer in the User Name box if you want to read my words of wisdom only!
6. If you only want to search posts made within a certain time frame, etc add those parameters in the search options choices.
7. Possibly most importantly select this forum: 1948 -56 F1 F100 and larger trucks from the Search in Forum(s) menu box.
8. Click Search Now button.

 

Been busy for a couple days since my last post catching up on the chores. LONG REPLY FOLLOWS, Run while you can!

First I want to assure everyone that I'm not the thin-skinned, P-C type who is easily offended by direct statements of fact. It is what it is, I get that and actually appreciate straight, clear answers. Fire at will. I haven't been as clear as I'd like to be and have also been a bit reactive and, I confess, embarrassed by things like the visor panel which I never saw originally. Was too busy looking at the shiny engine and frame work, and trying to get the engine running in the 60 minutes I had. Wouldn't have made a difference as the seller gave me a good deal in my opinion. He started at $4100 for the pair of trucks, came down to $3800, I offered $2500 after discovering the damage to the fenders etc from poor storage. We settled on $2700. I figure a rebuilt flat head on a clean frame and suspension with new exhaust and plenty of useable parts between the two trucks was worth that.

Now, a lot of good points have been made about commitment/cost/value (perceived or otherwise)/expectations. I have no doubt that I will have several, maybe many more thousand dollars involved before I'm done. I'm fine with that because I can do it my way. I also know as you said, AX, that you never get your money out of it. Those 'picker' type shows on TV always show what was paid and what it sold for. They don't show the man hours involved in travel, repair, sale. Unless your time is worthless, this is a large part of the equation.

It all adds up. Example, in addition to the initial $2700 there's another $550 in getting the two trucks hauled the 157 miles here, in two trips. Plus 14 hours of my time. I didn't keep track of the original trip to view the trucks, but another 8 hours and $50 in gas, at least. Add another $220 for a set of bumpers enroute (only needed the back but had to buy both) and $15 for those snazzy chrome lug nuts I asked about. Yep, the tab is already growing and I've not really started.

This wasn't a hasty, uninformed decision on my part. I looked around for a while and everything was either 'done', priced like it was done, or a rust bucket that hadn't run for 30 years for $2-$3K. I really prefer to avoid someone else's bad choices or bad personal taste, so a truck not messed with too much was my goal.

I do have a list & plan, BTW. I'm just easily distracted. Wife says it's adult A.D.D. What really wound me up the other day was discovering issues with the '52 cab that I either discounted or clearly had missed and didn't know enough about. I have to figure out everything I need to swap off the '51 because it needs to get sent down the road ASAP to get it out of the yard and recover some of the funds. The dashboard in the '52 is actually perfect, just took a couple photos I'll attach. My main concern was, and still is, whether or not the outer front cab corners - those porkchop-shaped replacement panels you see for sale - are somehow responsible for holding up the door pillar, or could be hiding a major screw up of a repair behind it. The rear cab corners on the '52 are great. On the '51, there is some rust but the front corners look good. The dash and floor are just hacked up on the '51. So I was trying to figure out what to do, which cab to keep. I'd prefer to go with the '52. Your description of the ease of repairing the visor panel put me more at ease with that choice, AX. Replacing the front floor looks like a no-brainer as in DO IT, not necessarily that it's easy.

As to making it a running, driving truck (I use my 2002 Ranger to go to the dump, Ross ) I figure I could buy a case of red oxide rattle can primer and cover everything over fast. Then between missing parts and hardware, tires and some 15" F-150 rims I could probably have it back together and running/driving for another $2K or so(Remember - drivetrain, suspension, frame, exhaust etc are done for now). Wouldn't be great, sure wouldn't be pretty, but it's a very basic vehicle. That's not the route I want to go. I want to do it right: not 'show quality', just clean and safe. I detest bondo or other fillers for anything other than smoothing over a completed repair. 9 times out of 10, it ends up needing attention before long.

And if all that's not bad enough, I already have thoughts of lowering the front suspension 2-3", the back maybe 1", and adding headers and dual glasspacks once it's 'done'. Then I made the mistake of reading the power steering thread and seeing how clean and tidy it fit the truck.

I am soooooo in trouble. In a good way, since it's not a life or death project. It's a stress reliever. Right? To answer your question about metalwork AX, yes and no. I knew the fenders and back bed would need some work. Didn't think the cab would need much, if any cutting or welding. Someone else already did it, just hoping they did it right. I can do electrical & mechanical stuff all day. Some body work. Welding, no. Would love to learn someday.

 

On a happy note, I found two 52 upper grille latch panels.

 

You should cut the windshield header out of the 51 cab and make it into a patch panel. Then have someone who does know how to weld stitch it in for you.

There are several threads on FTE that show how to correctly weld on sheet metal patch panels....Ax has posted the welding tutorials, but a number of other guys have posted photo journals of their welding and body work. Definitely read and look at some of those before you turn somebody loose on that project.

Dan

 

If you read my post on making a plan you would find my method is different than most and is based on over 50 years experience in this hobby. I do my best to try and impart some of that experience on to others, things I had to learn the hard way.
My suggestion is at this point is to strip every and all parts off the 51 and figure out a way to store all them. They are worth a lot more to you as donor parts than you'll ever get for them by selling or scrapping them. You haven't begun to understand just how expensive even used parts are, and they add up very fast. Even if you have to buy a storage shed to put them in you will be money ahead in the end.
As I already said, every single piece of metal in these trucks are essential to the structural integrity, including the exterior panels. A poor repair in this area could easily come back to bite you. To be completely clear: YES the outer panels as well as the hidden inner bracing behind it, are part of the structure that secures and gives strength to both the door pillars and the cab mounts.
That is wonderful and nearly miraculous on a 70 year old truck that has been sitting neglected in a field in the SE. I would reserve judgement until the cab has been stripped and/or closely examined tho.
See my comment above on the other cab corners. The 51 dash would be an even easier fix than the visor panel (which would be easy for ME to fix) after re-examining your photos. Floors are easy peasy, since they make replacement floor panels, but all the repairs require welding. I do offer my welding and sheetmetal fabrication/repair services as well as welding instruction.

I assume you were being facetious? replacing the missing instruments, wiring, and controls will cost most if not all that 2K alone, that doesn't count other must haves like brakes, steering, lighting, fuel tank, and the "I'm not stepping foot in that thing until you add/fix..." orders from the SO like seats, heat, wipers, windows, door latches that work, running boards so she can get in and out, weatherstripping to seal out the wind and rain etc etc etc., a minimum of 10K before any body/appearance work.

.
My money would be on that it needs more than you think, you are just not far enough in to it, haven't learned yet where and what to look for. Unfortunately no one yet makes front or rear repair panels for the F1 fenders or complete steel fenders, they will need to be repaired by hand or fiberglass reproductions purchased. fortunately reproduction steel beds are available. It's rare that someone will sell a project that was done right for 1300.
I can teach you to do satisfactory welds in 6-8 hrs of instruction.

Is the trailer you used yours? I have sent you a private message.

 

I'll check it out. Never too old to learn something new. My current plan is just to finish up the chassis/wheels/tires since it's nearly done and move to the cab/body issues.

I've got storage, there's just not much left of the truck. The '51 is truly a shell, the guy bought it to build into a street rod. No glass, no interior, no drive train, etc. A mildly-hacked frame, front & rear axles w/springs, and a so-so cab, back body, and ratty fenders from my '52. I'll be swapping the doors off too as they are better than the '52.

Okay, that's what I was getting at. Thanks. Some is obvious, but as you know - I don't yet have a lot of specific knowledge about these models.

Absolutely. I used a little magnet to check around the rear corners, they appear fine but could have already been patched I suppose. The '52 was actually in dry heated storage in Illinois up until 5 years ago when the PO hauled it down here. It then sat under a car port which shielded it but didn't really protect it. Most of the fender damage and visibile freckling happened since the move. I've got photos of it before, it almost looks like a different truck.

This is good to know. I learned the hard way years ago that, when you don't know what you're doing, it's cheaper in the long run to pay someone who does. Not that I don't want to learn. For me, it's purely an issue of available time (a daughter who is almost 10 mos old for starters) followed closely by available funds. The latter is easier to remedy, just sell off more of the junk collection.

Agreed, *if* I was doing it right. My estimate was what it would cost me to take it as it sits right now and throw it back together with minimal repair/restoration just to get it into driving condition. Most of the missing stuff is in one of two boxes not pictured. Also have three bags of new wiring harnesses. All the glass is still installed though the weather stripping is shot all around. Speedometer is the only gauge that will need replacing as the glass got broken at some point and the face is toast. And I think the wiper arms are missing, haven't found them yet. Sounds like Panelman might have the upper valance that is needed. You're right - to do a good job of it would cost much, much more.

Oh, I don't doubt that one bit. I'm already learning the hard & fast way about the floors/cab work!

True. I was referring to the work already done on the cab and hoping they did it right. The bondo is what got my attention. It looks like a good job, but we all know that looks can be deceiving.

Trailer belongs to my neighbor, he does my hauling for reasonable rates. I just need to schedule in advance.

Got the PM, will send email as time allows this morning. Forgot to add that I can solder like crazy, which is sorta like welding from an understanding of temps, flowing solder, etc [tongue firmly planted in cheek]<tongue firmly="" planted="" in="" cheek="">.

And I can grind welds, too! </tongue>

 

Additional points awarded for a good working latch, letters, etc!

 

Grinding down a poor weld only succeeds in making it an even poorer weld!