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Got a problem with my truck recently. I'll be driving down the freeway and my fuel filter light will come on. It just gradually gets brighter until it is on completely, then the truck loses power and sometimes shuts down completely when I stop. It happens more when I am passing or giving it a lot of go pedal. I can drain the bowl and it gets better for a little while, but it comes back again.
I've changed the filter twice this month, run multiple tanks of fuel from different stations, and the last filter I switched still looked fine.
The problem seems to happen most when I am running on the front tank (stock tank from '95) but it seems to go away when I switch to the rear (38 gallon tank I installed about 3 years ago).
Tank switchover? I'm not sure what the technical name is. There's a valve down there by the tanks though that might be your culprit.
I've thought about that, but not sure how that would affect how it is running. I ran the front tank for over 100 miles before the filter light came on this last tank.
Originally Posted by ReBilld
How's it going Evan! Try cleaning the FPR screen in the fuel bowl.
Cleaned it last time I swapped filters and it was sqeaky clean...
Originally Posted by madpogue
Sounds like some nasty foreign substance in the front tank....
Could be this, maybe the sock in the fuel tank is gummed up?
. Sometimes the showerhead itself comes off, falls apart, and the broken bits get caught in the line, or sucked up to the filter.
If you've got a place to put it, and a couple guys to help you, supposedly removing the bed is the easiest way to get to it. Alternative is to drop the tank, not much fun esp. if it's a 4x4 (the skid plate isn't exactly feather light...). You'll want a new lock ring for the sender/line plate if you opt to take it off; it's pretty-much a given that you have to destroy the existing lock ring to remove it.
If you've got a place to put it, and a couple guys to help you, supposedly removing the bed is the easiest way to get to it. Alternative is to drop the tank, not much fun esp. if it's a 4x4 (the skid plate isn't exactly feather light...). You'll want a new lock ring for the sender/line plate if you opt to take it off; it's pretty-much a given that you have to destroy the existing lock ring to remove it.
How much fuel is in the front tank?
About 10 gallons left in the front, give or take. It's a 4x4 but the skid plate isn't on it right now. I may just run the rear tank for a while until I can take care of the front (if that ends up being the problem). I can go over 600 miles on the rear tank, so that isn't a problem.
Isn't a faily common problem with the stock tanks having the inside de-laminate or something?
I'm not aware of tank delamination problems with our OBS models. I've read about some years of SDs and vans having delamination problems. Those folks report fuel filters full of a silvery substance, which is the lining of their fuel tanks. Nasty.
If you haven't found the reason for your fuel restriction problem and it's continuing, I'd advise you look for the source. It will likely get worse and bite you at the most inconvenient time.
Look from the fuel tanks (obviously the front one, if you've identified that's where your problems seem to come from), the shower head pickups, the fuel lines, the tank selection switch.
I'd suggest you use a tire pressure gauge on the Schraeder valve on the fuel filter housing to see what it says. It should show 40 to 50 psi or so with the engine idling.
I'm not aware of tank delamination problems with our OBS models. I've read about some years of SDs and vans having delamination problems. Those folks report fuel filters full of a silvery substance, which is the lining of their fuel tanks. Nasty.
If you haven't found the reason for your fuel restriction problem and it's continuing, I'd advise you look for the source. It will likely get worse and bite you at the most inconvenient time.
Look from the fuel tanks (obviously the front one, if you've identified that's where your problems seem to come from), the shower head pickups, the fuel lines, the tank selection switch.
I'd suggest you use a tire pressure gauge on the Schraeder valve on the fuel filter housing to see what it says. It should show 40 to 50 psi or so with the engine idling.
I'll check everything from the front tank forward when I have the time. I've just been running it on the rear tank for now and have had zero issues since.
I shimmed my FPR about 3 years ago (was reading 65 psi after) but I suppose I should check it again. Really wish I had the time/money for electric fuel...
I shimmed my FPR about 3 years ago (was reading 65 psi after) but I suppose I should check it again. Really wish I had the time/money for electric fuel...
Better start saving for projects now Evan. I'll be up there in less than a year to help you
Better start saving for projects now Evan. I'll be up there in less than a year to help you
The only projects I am saving for right now involve paying for my son's pre-school, making it through the rest of my schooling, paying for my wife's nursing program, and all the other fun things that life is gonna throw our way the next couple years...
THEN maybe I can save up for some fun truck stuff!
mine started coming on at acceleration then would go off when i leveled out at crusing speed it started staying on longer then it would not go out and left me on the side of freeway thinking fuel pressure regulator started tearing into it last night cant find the fuel pressure regulator any help would be great thanks
mine started coming on at acceleration then would go off when i leveled out at crusing speed it started staying on longer then it would not go out and left me on the side of freeway thinking fuel pressure regulator started tearing into it last night cant find the fuel pressure regulator any help would be great thanks
The FPR is mounted to the driver side of the fuel bowl. The two return lines that come from the front of the heads hook to it.