I have read and read and read these forums and feel like I have learned a lot about the F-100. I was hoping you all could still give me some pointers on this specific truck before I go take a look tomorrow evening (Wednesday).

1964 ford f100

This will be my first classic truck (I'm 28) and I want to try to make it a good experience. I really don't care about the look of the truck, but the reliability. Knowing that and the fact that I am pretty mechanically inclined (do all my own car repairs and motorcycle repairs), what would y'all look at if you were going tomorrow? I don't want a big project, just a good truck to run around in and for my wife to use for her photography shoots now and then. Also, I have only driven motorcycles with a choke but never an older truck. Any pointers/thoughts? Thanks in advance!

 

Welcome to FTE.
The drivers side front, took a good hit. So you need a bumper, lower valance/rock guard. Don't know about inner fender or outer fender on drivers side. (Possible)
Drivers side outer mirror is not correct, tailgate looks like it's from a 67 and up not correct for this truck, but it will work.
From here I don't know, there could be more damage, You'll need to really check out the core support and frame.
Check from front to back top to bottom for rust.
Because of these issues, you might have room to work with, while negotiating a deal.

 

Hey welcome to FTE!

Pertaining to common rust spots start by looking at both rear exterior cab corners. Next look at both floor pans of course and near the battery.

Dealing with choke is simple. For me a good rule of thumb I use is always start by pulling the choke halfway out for the first start of the day. Once you have it half way out you can adjust it for the outside temperature. When its colder outside like (50-60 degrees) I'll pull the choke out another half inch and any colder I'd pull it out further so on and so on according to the temp.If its hot still leave the choke halfway pulled that is sort of like your baseline for starts.

After you have your choke set, pump the gas pedal a few times just like any other carbed engine. Then start it up, if it sounds like its going to bog out then pull the choke another half inch. Let it stand for a minute or two push the choke in and then be on your way.

If you run into carb problems these links may help you like they helped me if you have a Holley 1904 that is.

Here's a thurough rebuild thread:
1st part.
Part 1 Disassembly
2nd part.
Part 2 Reassembly

Great Video series of disassembly and Assembley

The author of the videos above also has a super good quality carb shop with Holley 1904 stuff for sale that highly recommend, here's the link.
Mike's Carburetor Shop

 

Welcome to FTE Jobiles
Hey I just went through purchasing a '64 P/U and looked at MANY of them. I know you said you dont mind so much the look of it, however the look may be causing issues. I can tell by looking at this truck, there is body work that needs to be done. Door lines look off tells me cab mounts along with other items on the body and then there are floors. So be prepared if that is something you want to do, Not a bad price for the truck, but I have found i my years of Mustang buying and selling, pay a bit more for someone else that has done all the dirty work, UNLESS you want to do it! I spent 2 years working on a '69 stang and never finished it, sold it, lost my *butt*. This last purchase, my truck, body is clean, just mechanicals and that is what I like to do these days. <O</O
Also what I did was get a list of items needed and went on line to different online stores, made a shopping cart, ba-da-bing, you have your overhead cost! <O</O
<O</O
On more thing, power adders may be something you may want to look into, power steering at the least. My wife drives my truck, not sure she would enjoy it with out power. <O</O
Good luck!<O</O
Hammy<O</O

 

I like that mirror on the drivers side door.


John

 

You would!

 

Pass on that one. It's pretty rough. A straight axle better be very clean, rust free and straight to outway the hassle of dealing with 50's engineering. You should be very selective, there a still many of these trucks out there. Remember, if your buying a '64 an older, your basically buying a 1950's truck, and they drive like 1950's trucks. You might what to consider a '65 or '66, with a 300 6 cyl. much easier to deal with for your first classic truck.

 

I can barely use them. That is one of the biggest complaints that I have about my Slick, damn mirrors are so small I can't back with them.


John

 

HaHa your old! And

 

Floor shifter conversion indicates it's got issues with either the column being worn out or the cab mounts are rotted, allowing the cab to lean forward and pinch the column.

I think if I were a total noob starting out I'd spend a little bit more and get a much better truck.

 

I would only buy 65 or 66 if you want an easy upgrade for front disc and power steering. I have a 64 but put it onto a 75 frame to get more creature comforts.

D

 

WOW….Am I missing something here, is it not the whole idea of what a classic truck is for, and the nostalgia of riding in a “vintage” truck is like.
To me, riding in my vintage “64” truck is like taking me back to the good ol days, listening to the a.m. radio, my wife by my side in the bench seat, and me steering the truck down the road…<O</O
I feel I should sell my truck and buy a new 2014
LOL......Hammy

 

I don't get what your saying. But we'll miss you.

 

Point well made, but I'll tell ya what, with a good set of mirrors I can back a trailer off the street & on to your driveway, and put it in your back pocket. And do it with out pulling up 29 times.

Just sayin


John

 

I believe you can John, just busting your b*%&^
Do you really think you could put it in my back pocket?