Today outside of Wythe, VA 1368 up the longest of grades is about as high of EGT that I achieve...Ran that for a couple of minutes...so somewhere around sustained 1K EGT's should not be a problem

 

I tried to break 1000 today and couldn't get close. My max peak was 875. I don't know exactly where it was as my MIni Maxx logs certain data, but I'm sure it was up a large overpass towing about 7500lbs.

 

Subscribing, I would like to hear and see actual mpg gains figured out by hand, not by a lie o meter.

I honestly cant see the mpg going up drastically enough for me to try this, hence why Im subscribing though.

 

i came across a few 6.4 turbo mod videos of the same thing on youtube. anyone know them or could contact them? see if they had any issues or maybe just see what they have to say about it. i think they posted the videos like 2-4 years ago.

 

Please post the videos or links!

 

this guy has several videos Ch3vyridnhi - YouTube </iframe>"><iframe src="//www.youtube.com/embed/R1lR3o-6ZGo" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" width="560"></iframe><a href="<iframe width=" 420"="" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/bJjC5RmZrdo" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""><iframe src="//www.youtube.com/embed/bJjC5RmZrdo" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" width="420"></iframe>

 

I read recently (last week maybe?) over on PSA a guy or some guys were messing with it and using MCC to disable the VVT until or at a certain RPM or speed...I dont recall exactly.

Also, I wouldnt be too worried about 1000*.

 

I've been running the 210 tow tune, very drivable with the VVT disabled.
Laggy though, definately a switch is needed, I don't think most people would be happy with the power with VVT unplugged.

I want to try adjusting the control linkage, or making a new one.
That might be the key.

Screwed up my fuel mileage test, ended up using the truck for a bunch of short trips and idling at work.

 

at 10 psi today, EBP was 24 PSI.

That seems efficient to me.

The turbochargers on this thing have always been made out by haters to be inefficient, but I don't think thats the case; just the tuning.

 

At a needle and a half over full, according to the guage, I have 570 km on the trip meter.
Not sure how good this is yet, cause I haven't filled yet, but I think it seems decent anyways.

I'd say roughly about 4 hours of low speed and idling in there, with the rest mostly highway at about 110 km/h , 120 km/h sometimes.

Gonna fill it in a day or 2 to see what the story is.

 

Subscribing.

Parkland I understand your logic about the switch to disable the VVT actuator, but you're going to have to help me understand your logic on a mod to the adjustable linkage.

 

The VVT system is the turbo vanes that adjust the exhuast velocity to control boost level, the arm coming out of the turbo housing, adjustable linkage, and control arm going into the electronic actuator.
the adjustable connector is intended to be adjusted after a turbo is built, or rebuilt, to keep it "in spec".

if the connector was lengthened, it would adjust the van angle vs electric controller angle, to retard the amount of turbocharging.
Unplugged is too retarded; laggy, won't build much boost until 2000 + RPM's, etc.
Plugged and stock, you get insane boost it seems, EG 30 PSI just mildly accelerating.
There has to be a happy medium.
unplugged on the 210 tow tune, it pulls pretty hard at 10 - 20 PSI, without hitting 1000 * EGT's.
I loaded the "late lockup tune", and it is very drivable.

Hopefully, a lengthened connector rod would allow you to enjoy the present VVT system, without suffering un necessary high boost all the time.

 

Ok, I should have been more clear, I knew what the VVT system is, but you do a fine job of describing it to those who don't. In all honesty we on this post should probably start using the correct acronym to describe what we're talking about since VVT is used industry wide to describe variable valve timing, and we're all talking about "variable vane turbo" which is more commonly called VGT (variable geometry turbocharger) ... back to my question.
I understand exactly what you're thinking of I'm just trying to think through how it would actually work and i know you've put in more thought than me. If you lengthen the connector rod you would affect the "timing" of your higher back pressure and boost based on the position of the actuator but i don't think that the position of the actuator is a monitored output parameter (and i could be wrong) Meaning that the ECM is monitoring parameters such as EBP and MAP and throttle position and using them to "call" for more or less boost and when it calls for more boost the actuator receives signal to adjust until an acceptable level is achieved. In my thinking the only thing that causes the actuator to stop at any point along its range of travel is the ECM seeing that the desired levels of the monitored parameters have been reached but it does not stop moving based on an output signal from the actuator itself stating that it has reached a certain actuator position. If my logic is correct then the longer connector would likely cause the variable vanes to be slightly adjusted, say slightly closed, in the actuator zero position and then the vanes reach their max adjustment, say fully closed, some where in the middle of actuator's normal range but earlier than it would have occurred with the factory linkage. This doesn't sound like what you're trying to achieve, hence the reason for my question.
It sounds to me like you need a slotted connector rather a fixed length/solid connector. That would allow the actuator to begin traveling without moving the vanes, this method would however lower the max boost that could be achieved when the actuator goes to full travel. . Hopefully you're following me. Anyone feel free to chime in on the control logic of the VGT actuator if my thinking is flawed.

 

The VVT position is a monitored vlaue, not only that, the more I read, it appears it is controlled with rather "fixed" algorithms, so instead of for EG sensing boost level, and adjusting itself, the controller is controlled, but only in a limited way.

So if the rod is longer or shorter, I don't think the system will automatically compensate, I think it will just run, and in stock form, would probably trigger several air flow warnings.

 

I have ran 1325 EGT's substained up a 19 mile 7% grade thats the highest i have ran and the only reason i was comfortable was because my EOT was well under 230 the whole time. I believe one must look at EGT-ECT-EOT to truely understand how hot and heat soaked the engine is.

I have ran the Quarter Mile at the track and have seen 1650-1700 EGT's no problems. But then again thats only 14-15 seconds...lol a 1000 should be a cake walk for the 6.4