Drying compressed air
FTE fan
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,674
Likes: 11
From: paradise, northern calif.
Cowboy you mentioned desicant dryers, well this is what I added to my very basic set up when I painted my truck. In addition all I had was another water trap at the compressor and the disposable filters that go onto your gun. I chose to change desiccant after a each day. I had no moisture issues using this from Eastwood, its a combo water trap and desiccant dryer.
Welder User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,269
Likes: 50
From: northwest MT
I stopped using the plastic can type filters on my paint guns after I caught the hose on something and snapped off the plastic filter. The loose end of the now unattached hose whipped around beating on the car I was painting causing a real mess. Just not worth it.
Besides they make the paint guns much harder to use.....proper inline traps are the way to go.
Just my opinion of course
Besides they make the paint guns much harder to use.....proper inline traps are the way to go.
Just my opinion of course
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,616
Likes: 3
From: Sapulpa OK
You can get rid of 60% of the water in your air with the use of an aftercooler. An old condenser from a car will suffice for most home users. Mount the condenser in front of the compressors flywheel so the fan will suck air through the condenser. Pipe your compressors discharge to the top of the condenser and from the bottom connection attach a filter with an auto drain valve. Then from there to your check valve in the receiver.
Cooling the air is the key. The colder you can get it the dryer it is going to be. Even if you choose a desiccant dryer or a refrigerated dryer you should use an aftercooler. Just make sure you drain the accumulated water regularly.
I don't know what kind of a climate you live in or how big your compressor is but an automotive condenser will provide enough cooling for the average 3 peak HP big box store outfit.
Cooling the air is the key. The colder you can get it the dryer it is going to be. Even if you choose a desiccant dryer or a refrigerated dryer you should use an aftercooler. Just make sure you drain the accumulated water regularly.
I don't know what kind of a climate you live in or how big your compressor is but an automotive condenser will provide enough cooling for the average 3 peak HP big box store outfit.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,299
Likes: 1,059
From: NM
You can get rid of 60% of the water in your air with the use of an aftercooler. An old condenser from a car will suffice for most home users. Mount the condenser in front of the compressors flywheel so the fan will suck air through the condenser. Pipe your compressors discharge to the top of the condenser and from the bottom connection attach a filter with an auto drain valve. Then from there to your check valve in the receiver.
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Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 3,222
Likes: 6
From: Houston
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,616
Likes: 3
From: Sapulpa OK
I rarely have to drain my receiver. Where I live the humidity averages less than 20% and if I drain my receiver once a month I'd be lucky to get 3 ounces of water out. I do not have an aftercooler either.
By the way aussicowboy, common copper tubing has a burst pressure of around 300 PSIG. I wouldn't worry about using it on your air compressor. It will more than handle what you have.
By the way aussicowboy, common copper tubing has a burst pressure of around 300 PSIG. I wouldn't worry about using it on your air compressor. It will more than handle what you have.
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 701
Likes: 1
From: Echuca VIC Australia
Yes, I'm liking the aftercooler idea a lot. If I combine that with a steel or copper pipe setup with a drain and water trap at the other end I think I'll improve things a great deal.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,299
Likes: 1,059
From: NM
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Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 14,325
Likes: 14
From: Island Southeast Alaska
Short of using a refrigerated supply, one of these should do the trick:
5-Stage Air Desiccant Air Drying Systems
Plumb it so it can be bypassed when using non spray air tools.
5-Stage Air Desiccant Air Drying Systems
Plumb it so it can be bypassed when using non spray air tools.
I have a 60 gal, 220 6HP Napa compressor. And two rigs that I want to paint. Isn't there a system that has this and the regulator combined? Back in the day I payed close to that for the regulator/filters with out any dryer. We did several paint jobs with little or no moister. And it is very humid here but the shop and compressor system held the same temp pretty much 24/7. The one thing I can think of that I did that has not been mentioned here is we never turned the compressor off. So it really never had to run for a long time and heat up. (Unless we where doing brakes or tires on a 10 bud truck). This was not the compressor I now have. But very simpler. The air was also ran through 3/4 copper manifolds through out the shop with the paint booth at the end of the line with a 33 gallon water trap tank there as well.
My ? is does anyone have a used regulator or know where I can maybe get an inexpensive one? I will only be painting once or twice a year. Is a regulator like we need for this something that an Equipment Rental place would have? I just thought of that.
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 701
Likes: 1
From: Echuca VIC Australia
If you only want to use it once or twice a year for painting you could put a mini regulator on the gun, like this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DEVILBISS-HAV-501-AIR-VALVE-REGULATOR-w-GAUGE-Hvlp-Auto-Paint-Spray-Gun-Hose-/390643643458?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item5af42cf442&vxp=mtr
A good quality gun can be regulated pretty well with the air adjustment screw though, you just don't have a gauge then.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DEVILBISS-HAV-501-AIR-VALVE-REGULATOR-w-GAUGE-Hvlp-Auto-Paint-Spray-Gun-Hose-/390643643458?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item5af42cf442&vxp=mtr
A good quality gun can be regulated pretty well with the air adjustment screw though, you just don't have a gauge then.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 14,325
Likes: 14
From: Island Southeast Alaska
I have always used two valves to get the pressure down. With this then I am using the valve on the gun and this one?. I have an old Bink's gun. I also need to kit it before I try and use it. Prolly been at least 15 years since I did the FJ40 in rustolium red.
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 701
Likes: 1
From: Echuca VIC Australia
If you have this one then you can leave the valve on the gun wide open and just use this one, no need to use two valves. I haven't used Binks guns but a good quality gun is a worthwhile investment, I bought a high end DeVilbiss and my paint finish improved greatly.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 14,325
Likes: 14
From: Island Southeast Alaska
Back in my day Binks was the best. I prolly have it spelled wrong. But that was before gravity feed upright or what ever they call them. Even before I had ever heard about clear coat or any two stage. We just applied lacquer sanding every coat than buffing most of the 8 or ten coats back off to try and get a shine. Heck I may never even find a kit for it know. Used to be able to get them anytime from Napa. I think it is the same as what Napa had as the parts would interchange.
"Only the name was changed to protect the innocent".
"Only the name was changed to protect the innocent".