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My Bronx is tripping a code for reduced egr flow, how do i fix this, buy a new egr or clean the one I have. I tried to remove it but I can get the rusted nut to budge some one please help before I blow it up! Its the 302
What year Bronco? Following applies to late 80's- early 90's.
I would use some PB Blaster to soak the tube nut to the EGR. Get a big open end wrench to turn nut. It may also help to heat the nut w/ propane torch before attempting to break.
Warm engine and fix idle at 1500 rpm w/ board to gas pedal from seat.
Tee into the vacuum line to the EGR w/ a vacuum gauge to watch the vacuum level. The electronic EGR keeps the vacuum at about 12-15" hg by continually supplying and venting.
If vacuum is zero, then check the EGR vacuum suppy solenoid and supply tubing for leaks.
If vacuum supply is OK, then remove and check EGR pintle for easy movement and blockages. Also check supply tube for blockage.
Until the advent of the DPFE sensor (~'95), the computer didn't actually measure the flow thru the EGR - it just guessed. That code refers to the EVP or EVR circuits, so diagnose them and the vacuum lines that run to them. It's probably just a leak in the reservoir (coffee-can).
PB Blaster is a spray can penetrant that will loosen frozen nuts and bolts. It needs to soak overnight for best effect.
Check the vacuum line leading from the EGR to the EGR vacuum control solenoid (EVR?), and then supply line to the EVR. All the way to throttle body vacuum source, if necessary.
You need a manual to help you. Diagnosing and tracing problems w/o a manual and diagram is very difficult for a DIY.
If you find out that it is the EGR valve and can't afford the part right now, then just remove the tube nut and insert a dime in the flared fitting. This will fool the sensor and then you can remove the code. However, be sure and replace the EGR valve at first opportunity. Hey...we all don't have the money to replace these costly parts at the drop of a hat!!!
This shouldn't be done for very long. Running w/o the EGR causes the combustion temps to go up, and a burnt valve or piston is possible, according to some sources I've read.
That said, I have done the same thing for a few days.
Some EGR's can be cleaned, but the key surfaces are impossible to reach, and cleaning is usually ineffective. It's worth a try using throttle body cleaner to soak the valve parts.
Exactly why I typed "at first opportunity". I'm not sure as to the validity of a burnt valve possibility, but one tends to forget problems unless one is reminded. My suggestion is to help alleviate overworking the system-plus the EEC, and to offer a remedy for the nagging dashboard reminder.
Truly, nothing pisses me off more than to see a jerry-rigged motor and electrical system. Sort of like the '96 taillights on a '88 model? Yep, they may work, but seems to me that you lose the character seperation of the year model. I have a '69 Chevelle, and can you imagine what it would do to the value if I added '68 taillights, or any other off year part? I guess it might not make sense to some...sorry to have ran amok.
Originally posted by Redness It's a 96 with the 5.0...
In that case, I'd start by diagnosing the DPFE. It's a flat metal sensor, about the size of a small matchbox, with 2 thick-walled rubber lines attached to the bottom and a 3-wire connector on its face. Probably mounted near the front R corner of the engine at the top (near the EGR valve). They sometimes collect water from the exhaust and stop responding to the pressure.
I got the dpfe off how do I know if its working? I shook it and i don't hear anything that sounds like water so is it allright? If this is ok what should I check next?
Trace the vacuum line back to it's source. I would guess there is a blockage in the line itself, or the line is broken somewhere. Look at the diagram on your hood, or from a service manual.
Still haven't fixed my problem I hooked a vac guage up to the vac line on top of the EGR and I can draw vacuum when i give it gas. I checked the line that goes from the top of the egr to the egr solenoid valve and it has no leaks. I then checked vacuum on the line black line that also connects to the egr solenoid valve, at idle the vacuum kept rising and I pulled the guage off before it got above 30 inches. Everything seems to be working fine. Is it the solenoid? Do these go bad and how do I check to see if its working? I took the actual egr off and the diaphram moves pretty easily should I just say F*** it and put a dime in the tube so the code goes away?
Please help