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Old Aug 4, 2013 | 02:48 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by BryanStein
DeltAs should be checked at 65 mph steady after warning up for 20 minutes.
Deltas decrease at idle and coasting, increase at higher speeds, towing and pulling hills.

Temps should decrease on downhill runs.

My delta is 7 to 8 with a new oil cooler.

If ur delta is good at 65; I would not chemical flush.
Thanks, I'll check mine again at 65 on the flattest stretch of road after warming up for 20 minutes.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2013 | 03:06 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Mr James
I bought 4 gallons of the Zerex ELC C-1... So is this basically the way? Or do I need to consider pulling the plug(s) on the block?

Thanks...!!
Make sure it is the concentrate and not the 50/50 or ready use. I could not find the Zerex ELC-1 in concentrate.

I removed block drains and installed the valves.



 
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Old Aug 4, 2013 | 03:22 PM
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To check mine, I drive 80 to get the eot up, then drop to 65 and make sure I see the eot dropping. This way I know the eot is up to operating temps. I then wait for the eot to stabilize for my delta reading.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2013 | 07:58 PM
  #19  
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i'm very paranoid. i did the vc-9 chemical flush, and my delta saw an improvement in about 2 to 3 degrees improvement. i never had any crazy issues before anyway, but i just went ahead and did it.

if after u do an egr delete, and a chemical flush, and u have higher delta, either u didnt do it correctly, e.g. proper backflush of block heater, or ur oil cooler is usually the problem. tats why most folks recommend to change out a new oil cooler after the flushing is complete, and since ur all the way in already, they also recommend to get rid of the egr cooler (unless ur in CA), and update other parts like blue spring, update turbo oil feed line, new drain pipe, and clean turbo, yada yada.....

sorry i'm rambling now. lol. on a serious note, i'd personally cover all the bases.

on a side note, i did not open the drain blocks. i went rambo and opened up the lower radiator hose. i back-flushed the block heater like u would not believe. i spent 2 days flushing like crazy. using a garden hose. flushing everything and draining and checking the water until it's perfectly clear and not even the slightest sticky. since i forgot to open up on the passenger side, dammit, i forgot there was still some water in there. anyway, i filled up with 3 and half gallons of ELC and it's been done since may 13, 2013, and so far so good. i noticed the improvement in delta, the highest any of my temp ever reached in 115 degree weather is 211. i think tat will be on EOT side. i thank god tat everything has been stable so far. she's still running, and i couldnt be happier. except when she's off her damn rockers like now.....the ABS light is taunting me. it goes on and off. it's either one of the front wheel sensors. dang it.

good luck to the OP. here's a link to my album. https://www.facebook.com/snuggyworm/...7252551&type=3
 
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Old Aug 4, 2013 | 08:17 PM
  #20  
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99, with a new oil cooler and a twice flushed coolant system, I get deltas of 10 to 18 towing a 6000lb rv at 75 mph. It depends on the grade and how long i'm pulling the grade.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2013 | 08:33 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by BryanStein
99, with a new oil cooler and a twice flushed coolant system, I get deltas of 10 to 18 towing a 6000lb rv at 75 mph. It depends on the grade and how long i'm pulling the grade.
You shouldn't be looking at deltas on grades, cresting or down hill, That's fools gold your looking at. 75 moh is also not the optimum speed for deltas.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2013 | 10:45 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by 69cj
You shouldn't be looking at deltas on grades, cresting or down hill, That's fools gold your looking at. 75 moh is also not the optimum speed for deltas.
Awesome info, because I've been watching mine at 80, 75, 70, 65 etc. I think my 16 spread was at 75 mph on a somewhat 'hilly' stretch on I85 in South Carolina. It's never really flat per say. I think that is where I am going to have trouble pinpointing a true delta.

I think mine are good, I drive the same stretch of road to work all the time so if it gets worse, I am sure I will know it.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 12:05 AM
  #23  
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69, in a previous post I agreed with u. Deltas should be checked at 65 mph in level ground. I just gave the op some info about how high it could go towing with a brew oil cooler. I had already given him my deltas asset 65 mph on flat terrain after warmed up.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 11:31 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by BryanStein
I hate to offer a different thought than Bullitt because I am no expert.

A member posted about two weeks ago that he had deltas in the 30s. He did a chemical flush an his deltas went down to less than 10. I distinctly remember the post because I was shocked with the results.

Until the post, I was a firm believer in not chemical flushing unless you had high deltas. I had a deltas of 40 after a chemical flush done during a radiator replacement. But my coolant system was nasty because it wasn't flushed when the oil cooler was replaced a year earlier. I tried another chemical flush with no changes to the delta.

I did not have readings on the delta before the radiator replacement. My system was so nasty, i think the oil cooler was plugged before the radiator replacement.

In summary, I would not chemical flush if I had good deltas. Not because I think it would hurt, but because there is no need ..... And there is a chance it could hurt. Most people think it will. I really don't know if it will or not.

Does anyone have any experience with chemical flushes causing deltas to increase? If so, please post. I know one example where a chemical flush decreased deltas.
I flushed my coolant for the first time at 30K.I had good delta's so I just flushed with water only.I had a bunch for people tell me to chemical flush but I really didn't want to do it.In the end everything turned out perfect.(Using water only)

For you last comment,I have heard MANY story's of increased delta's after chemical flushes.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 11:46 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by 99ExpyProblems
Awesome info, because I've been watching mine at 80, 75, 70, 65 etc. I think my 16 spread was at 75 mph on a somewhat 'hilly' stretch on I85 in South Carolina. It's never really flat per say. I think that is where I am going to have trouble pinpointing a true delta.

I think mine are good, I drive the same stretch of road to work all the time so if it gets worse, I am sure I will know it.
Always remember,"IF IT AINT BROKE,DON'T FIX IT".

Too many people end up worring about stuff breaking and start "fixing things" and cause themselves a whole world of problems.

I haven't had to fix anything on my truck since I bought it new.I maintain the **** out of it,Like,30K coolant flushes,30K heated trans flushes and 3000K mile oil change intervals with 5-40 syn.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 12:02 PM
  #26  
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No offense to the OP but apparently nobody got wat I said. Maybe I'm an idiot. But I'm a snuggyworm. Come here and get some hugs. Lol.

If any of y'all are experiencing trouble after back flushing and chemical flush, tats cos it wasn't done right. I may have been a retard and messed up on the water but the flushing procedure I did right. I never had any temp issues and I did the chemical flush and never had a problem. Now unless the chemical rotted my sensors or burnt a hole somewhere, I don't see how the chemical flush is gonna cause a prob. Also, if it breaks off the gunk in there somewhere, and gunk is floating around, then keep flushing with water until it floats out. Maybe u didn't do enough flushes. Once or twice ain't gonna cut it. I did it at least 15 times. I lost count. Like I said, I took 2 days. Also, not doing it enough times is equivalent to "not doing it right". I'm living proof tat I done did it and I have not had any probs.

If something fails or truck ain't running right, it's usually cos of something else. It won't be specifically because of the chemical flush.

Ok rant over. Sorry. No offense intended. Snuggs is back to hugging and spreading some love.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 02:27 PM
  #27  
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OK , here's my story....05 bought brand new and still all original except FICM....117,000 miles...Never changed the coolant...I know, I know...spare me!!!
I'm getting serious about this truck and bought Dashboss, and it read going up to, and back from camp deltas averaged 20-25 doing 65-80 on the highway( both flat and mountainous terrain. I want to switch to ELC coolant.....so my plan is this:
Coolant drain and flush with water ( NO chemical ) and replace with CAT brand ELC coolant( anyone use the CAT brand? have exact product #? I believe the jug says Ec-1 50/50 coolant
( 5 gallon conatiner is $62.00 )....yay / nay???
Watch deltas for a bit and see what changes, hoping to not need oil cooler.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 02:36 PM
  #28  
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Deeno, until u get a good delta at 65 on flat terrain, the numbers don't mean a ton about ur oil cooler. It has to be a steady state and not 85 mph for three minutes then 65 mph for the minutes.

If that results in 20 degree delta and u don't have an egr delete, I would consider a chemical flush DONE RIGHT. This may take all day, and most here don't think it will clean the oil cooler more than 200 miles without getting reclogged.

Regardless, definitely change to cat-1 elc coolant with no silicate, and u MUST install a coolant filter. That's how international runs these engines, and they built them.
 

Last edited by BryanStein; Aug 5, 2013 at 02:37 PM. Reason: added info
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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 02:49 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by deeno360
I'm getting serious about this truck and bought Dashboss, and it read going up to, and back from camp deltas averaged 20-25 doing 65-80 on the highway( both flat and mountainous terrain. I want to switch to ELC coolant.....so my plan is this:
First, get cold soak temps to verify that this isn't a sensor being weird. Or just swap the sending units and see if the temp spread changes. Once you've confirmed it's a real 25* split....

At that point, regardless of how fast and how hilly (BTW, the TSB never actually mentions all this 65mph cruising etc, it just says drive at WOT to achieve max boost), hitting 25 degrees means you're replacing an oil cooler. Arguing about 65mph or 75mph is arguing which shade of lipstick you're going to put on your oil cooler pig; as long as you aren't hammering 8* grades and pulling the delta after coasting a half mile down the back side, then it's pretty much in the ballpark, and the 10* increase over the 15* spec you're at is ultimately caused by a clogged oil cooler and not a specific set of driving circumstances.

The choice is yours to do it correctly with the chem flushes first, or skip those and do a second oil cooler a week down the road.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 03:04 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by texastech_diesel
At that point, regardless of how fast and how hilly (BTW, the TSB never actually mentions all this 65mph cruising etc, it just says drive at WOT to achieve max boost), hitting 25 degrees means you're replacing an oil cooler. Arguing about 65mph or 75mph is arguing which shade of lipstick you're going to put on your oil cooler pig; as long as you aren't hammering 8* grades and pulling the delta after coasting a half mile down the back side, then it's pretty much in the ballpark, and the 10* increase over the 15* spec you're at is ultimately caused by a clogged oil.
That one made me laugh pretty hard. lol@shade of lipstick. I have seen a lot of arguing on threads about what is a 'true test'. Doesnt' appear to be any consensus so I'm not sure how comfortable I am with it. I can tell you, my heart sank when I saw the 16 difference. lol, but then it eased up after I saw it drop again to 6-10, which is where it normally stays.
 
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