I need help choosing a carb!!!!
I am in the middle of a complete tear down on my 84 f150 stepside. I have everything on hand and ready to swap a offenhauser dp intake. split efi manifolds, duraspark wiring harness and distributor. My problem is that I'm a bodyman, not a mechanic. (i tell my customers I make 'em look pretty. I don't make 'em run) I dont' have the background to do a whole lot of fiddling around on a carb set up. Does anyone have any suggestions that would help me make this relatively idiot proof. I have people suggesting a edelbrock 500 or a holly 390. I would prefer something that I can bolt on a go... at least go far enough to my mechanic friends for the final tune up.

right now the truck is tripped down to the frame and drivetrain so if anyone has any other ideas or tips for what to do to it while everything is so easily accessible that would great too. Just dropped and rebuild, sealed and painted the rear end. I'll pull and strip the engine for paint next week.

 

The OEM autolites are excellent carbs, Holley is a very good performer but they typically require some tuning/adjustment, Edelbrock a decent carb for the unbox/bolt on & drive it, summit brand carbs- avoid like the plague- design is great mfg QA runs from good to crap because it is a chinese mfg.

IMHO, check with the local hot-rod guys for a local carb shop.....they can either rebuild yours, sell you a rebuilt carb (autolite, holley) and you will have a very good carb for less $ than buying outright new.

In terms of CFM rating...the 390 cfm is right on the mark

 

thanks beech. I've thought about looking local. But it seems like the shops here are staffed by a bunch of kids younger than me who don't seem to know much if a car isn't computer controlled and fuel injected.

The truck currently has the original 1 barrel and it's pretty much done for.

Any info helps. I'm really out of my element here... I'd rather be pounding metal and spraying paint. can't wait to turn heads with this thing.

 

To bring you up to speed very quickly on carbs, this is a great link, specific to the Autolite units.............
Classic Inlines Autolite Carb's

Because you have a more modern drivetrain, IMHO, I would look more to the aftermarket......especially with that manifold. That manifold has what is a square-bore (vs a spread-bore)...which means all 4 ports are identical in diameter (as compared to a spread-bore that the primaries are smaller)....it is very important (from a MPG & performance aspect) that your carb has the same base plate design.

As such, I would not consider any 2V carb..........

Holley has a great carb selector program at this link
Holley Interactive Carburetor Selector



Holley Carb: 0-8007/390 CFM Four Barrel Street Carburetor/Electric Choke
This is a square bore carb, but you will need to purchase additional "kits" with it to make it work. This is more of a performance carb as compared to the next one which is a little more MPG friendly (but IMHO, you would likely see very little difference) ...I would recommend calling holley to speak with them if you have an AOD tranny

Another option is the Holley Street Avenger, # 80570 (570 cfm), electric choke & vacume secondaries.....it is a square bore as well. (on heavy vehicles or with auto-trans, vacume in general is preferred over mech secondaries)

with either carb, ...I would recommend calling holley to speak with them if you have an AOD tranny

Edlebrock Performer Series #1403 (4V 500 cfm with electric choke)....I would call Edlebrock direct to verify which one is best for your manifold/engine combo....IIRR- it is a square-bore as well.

IMHO, for bolt on and go..

#1 would be Edlebrock

#2 Holley Street avenger

These carbs are also available (typically) in re-mfg units.....Orielly's, Summit, etc all have them. Another possible source for a rebuild carb (good quality) is from these guys........
Culver Carburetor Company
4921 Marine Ave
Lawndale, CA
310-679-2733 310-679-1616

The Carb Shop
1461 E. Philadelphia
Ontario, CA 91761 (909) 947-3575

Of course another great contact for getting further info on specifically what carb would be best for your appl/use and what specific "kits" are needed for each....this is another great resource.

http://www.cliffordperformance.net/

Hope this helps...........

 

Out of the box I'd take a 600cfm Edelbrock over the 500cfm. I've got a 500 on my truck and it was silly lean out of the box. I finally got it straightened out but when I dropped on a 600 I had sitting around it ran real nice. Bolt-on and go, get an Edelbrock.

 

Thanks Baron. How much work was it to put in that zf. I'd love to get rid of the granny and get a 5 speed. Even a real 4 speed would be preferred.

 

First, I wanted to say what a great post that was by beechkid!

Secondly, if you don't like having a granny first gear, then the ZF is not the trans for you. It has a granny, iirc.

My edelbrock 1403 ran great out of the box. What I didn't like was how the mix screw stripped and popped out when I gently bottomed it out. But Edelbrock fixed it with new body for free, even after warranty was expired. It's nice to live in the area. Eddy 500 is a great carb, but not for those interested in mpg.

I haven't tried a Holley, but of the Autolite carbs I've tried (480 cfm small and big block carbs, and the 600 cfm, modified and oe, and three different Quadrajets, 750 and 800 cfm) The small block 289 Autolite got the best mpg. But those carbs are so old it is virtually impossible to find a good one that hasn't had boosters or other components changed, making tuning impossible.

It is because of the annular fuel discharge boosters, and several other nice features, I am interested in the 600 cfm Summit carb. $240 new, and free shipping? Plus the best customer service/warranty I've ever experienced. It looks better all the time.

Good luck.k

 

The ZF is, for all practical purposes, a three speed with a granny gear and overdrive.

How much work to swap it? The Bronco had a T-18 before which is shorter than the ZF. Had to get the crossmember from a ZF equipped truck and drill new mounting holes ~2" farther back. And the drive shafts needed to be shortened/lengthened. Oh, and you'd need the tranny hump cover that bolts on under the carpet inside the cabin.

It would be more economical on a 2wd vehicle for sure - no front driveshaft to lengthen and the 2wd ZFs are much easier to find. With a 2wd truck you've got a lot of options for a tranny swap - M5OD from an F150, TKO500/600, T-5, toploader, etc.

I'd give it about a 4-5 on a scale of 10 for difficulty - including the trip across town to drop off the driveshafts to be rebuilt/modified. Easy peasy.

 

I would love to do the swap as well. Do you remember how much you paid to have the drive shafts modified?

 

Man, it's been a few years but best I can recollect it was ~$300-400 to have them both rebuilt. I think they get ~$150 just to balance and install new U-joints so it wasn't too bad in perspective.

 

I have found a shop with a dyno that might be willing to put the truck on it after i get it back on its feet. If I take in the needles and distributor springs they would be able to play with it a bit and see what works the best. Would this be a good way to do the tune on the truck? or would I be better of with real world driving and changing this up myself?

 

It's by far the best way, but it can get pricey.
Get it as close as you can first.

 

Bolt on a Holley 390 out of the box. Then take it to your mechanic friend and have him put in a bigger accellerator pump squirter - a ten minute job. Maybe a size 35 or 37. Good to go.

 

I have a line on a couple of used holley 390. If I'm going to alter one anyway can I get away with a used rebuilt unit? I think in the long run it might be a bit cheaper.

 

"... can I get away with a used rebuilt unit?"

It depends...rebuilds can be fine but worn throttle shafts/bushings might be "overlooked" on rebuilds.