Quick battery question
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Freshman User
Joined: May 2013
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Quick battery question
I looked through some battery threads but didn't see anything exactly like what I have been experiencing. When I first start up my truck it starts up strong but then if I stop and grab a coffee or grab some gas it turns over really slow the next time and almost didn't grab today. I am not sure of the vintage on the battery so I snapped a shot to see what you guys think? Any input would be appreciated. Thanks, Mark
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,396
Likes: 4
From: Cupertino
Hard to say. You do have a ratty repair clamp on the - terminal. Those things corrode and are bad news. I would dump that ground cable and replace it with a new one. Clean up the ground to the block. Check water level, clean up cable connections to solenoid and starter, tighten all.
You will need a dc voltmeter with a 0-15 v scale to check charging. You should see something like 14.5 v across the battery at high idle, everything off.
With the truck sitting dead you should see about 12.5 v, though open-circuit voltage tells you nothing about the ability of the battery to supply starter current.
If you don't know anything about the battery's age, why not dump it and replace it? The things are good for about five years and then give progressive trouble.
I hope this helps.
You will need a dc voltmeter with a 0-15 v scale to check charging. You should see something like 14.5 v across the battery at high idle, everything off.
With the truck sitting dead you should see about 12.5 v, though open-circuit voltage tells you nothing about the ability of the battery to supply starter current.
If you don't know anything about the battery's age, why not dump it and replace it? The things are good for about five years and then give progressive trouble.
I hope this helps.
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 14,255
Likes: 199
From: Phoenix, Az.
Hard to say. You do have a ratty repair clamp on the - terminal. Those things corrode and are bad news. I would dump that ground cable and replace it with a new one. Clean up the ground to the block. Check water level, clean up cable connections to solenoid and starter, tighten all.
You will need a dc voltmeter with a 0-15 v scale to check charging. You should see something like 14.5 v across the battery at high idle, everything off.
With the truck sitting dead you should see about 12.5 v, though open-circuit voltage tells you nothing about the ability of the battery to supply starter current.
If you don't know anything about the battery's age, why not dump it and replace it? The things are good for about five years and then give progressive trouble.
I hope this helps.
You will need a dc voltmeter with a 0-15 v scale to check charging. You should see something like 14.5 v across the battery at high idle, everything off.
With the truck sitting dead you should see about 12.5 v, though open-circuit voltage tells you nothing about the ability of the battery to supply starter current.
If you don't know anything about the battery's age, why not dump it and replace it? The things are good for about five years and then give progressive trouble.
I hope this helps.
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Thanks
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2013
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From: Phoenix, Az.
It does have headers and that could be the culprit as well. I have been thinking that negative cable looked shady and I will start there and work around cleaning/checking connections. Only does it when it is hot/been running so it sounds like you could be on to something. Looks like I can pick one up for pretty reasonable $$. I have no problem buying a battery just hate to throw 125 bucks at it if the battery isn't the real problem.
Thanks
Thanks
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Would you do that over the wrap for the starter? Looks like it would be the easier of the two and less $$.....
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Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 14,255
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From: Phoenix, Az.
Yes. I would wrap the headers. Makes them look ugly like a Mummy but you would get an added benefit besides a cooler starter. Keeping the heat inside the header's tubes actually increases the flow. Years ago Mac Products used this heat/flow characteristic to design the insides of their mufflers.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2001
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From: Cupertino
As above, exactly. And while you are diving, wrapping exhaust tubes, tighten down whatever starter bolts you can easily get to. That is part of the starter current circuit.
Starter heat soak was and maybe still is a big problem on GM stuff.
We will get you going.
Semper Fi
Starter heat soak was and maybe still is a big problem on GM stuff.
We will get you going.
Semper Fi
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
Likes: 74
From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Mark, Before you start wrapping header tubes, what for I don't know, take the darn thing to your favorite parts house and have the battery tested. That one looks Autozone to me, but it really doesn't matter.
John
John
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,396
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From: Cupertino
Yes, Jowilker makes sense. The answer to your problem depends on your cash situation and how valuable your time is.
A worst case fix would be to replace the battery and do all that we have proposed above. And have the guy check the charging voltage. You would drop about $150, maybe $175 to buy a cheap Charlie Radio Shack multimeter with a 15 volt dc setting.
I don't know why the battery would know whether the engine is hot or cold. I don't know why it would start it cold but not hot except as explained above.
Semper Fi
A worst case fix would be to replace the battery and do all that we have proposed above. And have the guy check the charging voltage. You would drop about $150, maybe $175 to buy a cheap Charlie Radio Shack multimeter with a 15 volt dc setting.
I don't know why the battery would know whether the engine is hot or cold. I don't know why it would start it cold but not hot except as explained above.
Semper Fi
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,762
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From: Antelope Valley ,CA
DURALAST= AUTOZONE
replace that negative battery cable those bolt together connectors are junk always corrod and cause problems .
I put a 2005 ish f250 battery in my truck , i can crank that thing for 30 minutes even with 10:1 C/R oh and it's a Duralast too .
replace that negative battery cable those bolt together connectors are junk always corrod and cause problems .
I put a 2005 ish f250 battery in my truck , i can crank that thing for 30 minutes even with 10:1 C/R oh and it's a Duralast too .
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