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What is the best way to set up your brakes on a '56 F100. Floor or firewall. It seems a lot cleaner look on the floor. Any help in this area would be appreciated. Photos would be good.
Depends on if you have a standard with hydraulic clutch or auto tranny, don't mind the different pedal movement from what you are likely used to driving, don't mind kicking and/or catching your foot on the pedal arm getting in and out, don't mind a hole in the floor/rug/floormat. don't want power assisted brakes, like the retro look of the pedal coming up thru the floor. Want a cleaner look in the cab or under the hood then go with the under the floor install. (by the way I have a nearly new under floor bracket and dual circuit MC I'm not using if interested, guess which way I went).
Yes, before anyone objects, you can add power assist to underfloor installs with complications, but you can also install hanging pedal with the MC under the dash rather than on the firewall.
I'm building my truck with a modern theme, lots of electrical/electronic accessories, I have a standard tranny with hydraulic clutch that required a second MC, and didn't like the pedal path of the thru the floor pedal, and like the clean floor look since I spend much more time inside the cab than under the hood. I also don't like having to have an inspection port in the floor/rug for checking/filling the MC. I really don't mind the appearance of the aluminum MC/translucent fluid rez and the polished stainless booster on my smoothed firewall goes well with the custom polished stainless cover I made for where the AC and heater hoses penetrate the firewall on the other side. I also changed the emergency brake handle to a foot operated pedal, and installed a power lift on the cowl vent.
I got my 7 inch dual diaphram booster and MC off ebay (none of the above mentioned vendors) and made the brackets (which is the part of this hobby I enjoy the most). To me function is more important because I wanted the original pedals and looks area very close second. I still have to work out the filling of the MC once the cab is on. I do not want another hole in the floor and do not like the idea of a remote rez. I need to see the space and have to deal with a clear flex tube and mirror. If there isnt enough room I may lower the assembly a bit.
I got my 7 inch dual diaphram booster and MC off ebay (none of the above mentioned vendors) and made the brackets (which is the part of this hobby I enjoy the most). To me function is more important because I wanted the original pedals and looks area very close second. I still have to work out the filling of the MC once the cab is on. I do not want another hole in the floor and do not like the idea of a remote rez. I need to see the space and have to deal with a clear flex tube and mirror. If there isnt enough room I may lower the assembly a bit.
Thanks , every idea gives you pause on your build!
I bought a under cab frame mount from No-Limit Engineering. It uses a Mustang II booster and master, twenty years ago I used wrecking yard parts, this rebuild (currently underway) I got rebuilt parts from Summit Racing. Never had any issues with filling the master, or it even needing fluid between brake jobs. I to like the stock pedal look.
Thanks for your reply. We have ordered our frame mounted brake//booster from CPP and feel comfortable it was a good move ans CPP offers very good support.
Great idea going with a new unit, I believe if a person is going to upgrade especially with brakes to go with a new brake master cylinder and booster. If I'm going down the road the number one thing which I wouldn't want to fail would be the brakes. For a few more dollars you'll have peace of mind.