Notices
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Alternator not charging, tested good

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #31  
Old 07-14-2013, 09:55 PM
ArdWrknTrk's Avatar
ArdWrknTrk
ArdWrknTrk is offline
pedant

Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: EXTREME southwest CT
Posts: 23,576
Received 15 Likes on 15 Posts
It should send your voltage up to 17-18V (don't do it for long)
You can measure anywhere... across the battery, at the + stud of the solenoid, wherever.
This is more a test of alternator output than regulator function, but if the alternator puts out with the screw grounded and doesn't when you remove the ground, then the regulator is fried.
 
  #32  
Old 07-15-2013, 09:06 PM
mattcad's Avatar
mattcad
mattcad is offline
Freshman User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Tested that, no change while grounded. So then I changed the alt with a used unit, no change. Then I changed the reg connector and the neg battery cable...... No change. Tommorrow I'm going to the scrap yard to switch out the pos cable and fusible links.....
 
  #33  
Old 07-15-2013, 09:16 PM
ArdWrknTrk's Avatar
ArdWrknTrk
ArdWrknTrk is offline
pedant

Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: EXTREME southwest CT
Posts: 23,576
Received 15 Likes on 15 Posts
I'm sorry, I am pretty much out of ideas.
You've changed out the charge plug and checked the green/red wire for battery voltage.
When you ground the test screw you don't get 17+ volts?
You have even changed the alternator.

This is a huge WTF???
 
  #34  
Old 07-16-2013, 12:42 AM
mroth2008's Avatar
mroth2008
mroth2008 is offline
Tuned
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Kitimat British columbia
Posts: 435
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 6 Posts
Do a continuity test or check with ohms the the alternator harness and check your fuseable links thier should be 3 in the harness. The ends may look all good but it may be bad on the inside and its an easy test to perform with a multimeter.
 
  #35  
Old 07-16-2013, 02:24 AM
mattcad's Avatar
mattcad
mattcad is offline
Freshman User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I know, it's driving me nuts, that and I haven't had time to really dig into it.
 
  #36  
Old 07-16-2013, 01:49 PM
vern2013's Avatar
vern2013
vern2013 is offline
New User
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by mroth2008
Do a continuity test or check with ohms the the alternator harness and check your fuseable links thier should be 3 in the harness. The ends may look all good but it may be bad on the inside and its an easy test to perform with a multimeter.
Several of us have mentioned doing a continuity test...but I don't see where anyone said to disconnect the positive battery cable 1st.

I've never tried doing this type of test on a wire with current in it...not sure I would want to
 
  #37  
Old 07-16-2013, 01:54 PM
ArdWrknTrk's Avatar
ArdWrknTrk
ArdWrknTrk is offline
pedant

Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: EXTREME southwest CT
Posts: 23,576
Received 15 Likes on 15 Posts
Actually, he says he gets 3V with the alternator connected.
I think I would start checking back towards the battery until I found 12V
Then I'd know where the problem is.
 
  #38  
Old 07-16-2013, 03:42 PM
n3vyk's Avatar
n3vyk
n3vyk is offline
Junior User
Join Date: May 2004
Location: High Desert of Southern C
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I had a like problem several years ago on a Bronco II. Continuity every where, no charge. The wire that went to the regulator to "excite" the alternator was down to one strand. Enough to illuminate the light, and enough to read voltage, but not enough AMPERAGE to excite the field.
 
  #39  
Old 07-16-2013, 05:46 PM
mattcad's Avatar
mattcad
mattcad is offline
Freshman User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Went to the scrap yard and picked up a harness from the solenoid to the alt. Thats all I had time for today, I will put that on tomorrow and see what I get. I know looking around the yard I found several that had seen better days, most had been repaired and some were burnt up. I will post an update.
 
  #40  
Old 07-16-2013, 08:38 PM
mattcad's Avatar
mattcad
mattcad is offline
Freshman User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks for all the help up to this point!!
 
  #41  
Old 07-17-2013, 11:02 AM
mattcad's Avatar
mattcad
mattcad is offline
Freshman User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Got it!! Changed out the fusible link side and its good! Thanks for all the help!!!
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
briangregory
1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
7
02-02-2018 10:09 AM
Korben
Electrical Systems/Wiring
7
02-19-2017 08:33 AM
lign
Excursion - King of SUVs
29
10-19-2013 01:37 PM
Psyte
Ford Inline Six, 200, 250, 4.9L / 300
18
09-15-2006 02:44 PM
zachsherman88
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
15
06-08-2006 10:08 AM



Quick Reply: Alternator not charging, tested good



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:00 PM.