Back with my 20hp "460" another 90 bucks at napa for gizmos. same ole same
ole thing. I find out I cant put a carb'ed manifold on this thing I am told. So
my mine's made up to bad very nice oil press,clean oil, burns no oil, to be
scrapped or anyone want it free. I'll be the only one on the block with a real
motor a 391FT. Only thing I have not replaced on this truck are wiper blades.

 

Im sure you can carb it.... Just need a new lower intake plenum that's setup for carb.

 

Or maybe fix the actual problem with the engine, along with what was actually replaced. "gizmos" can cover a lot of parts.

 

^ I like Bob's idea.

Since you're speaking of a fuel injected 460, you should probably dump the codes. That engine is entirely electronically controlled. It can only do what the computer tells it to do, and the computer only knows what to do by various inputs it gets from the sensors all over the engine.

 

By the way, you never told us why you stopped posting on the other thread, I was under the impression you actually got it solved. These engines are quite easy to work on... I don't get what's going on with yours, or what have you actually done. You come and only rant about it, share the real info so we can try to help you, the engine is obviously in great shape mecanically but there is something corking up the performance.

P.S.: Never think that you're bothering anyone with your questions, we're here to help each other.

 

^^^ this right here.

It's never a bother to anyone, however the vagueness of the situation is frustrating.

What'd be even more frustrating is swapping in an entirely different engine, and finding out there's some other problem with the truck that'd cause the new engine to run like **** too.

Speaking of new engines and whatnot, while the FT and FE motors are awesome powerhouses, I'm willing to bet you'd spend more time, money, and aggravation swapping one of those in than you will figuring out what's wrong with the 460.

Helpful things we need to know/tips on what to check:

-compression

-fuel pressure

-spark (not just that you have it, but is it a strong spark?)

-voltage at the battery while it's running (can't hurt, right?)

-codes, if any. KOER and KOEO

-ignition timing (should be at 10 degrees BTDC)

Also, to check timing, you have to remove the SPOUT. By doing this, the computer can't advance timing, and your base timing will be set correctly. Additionally, if the SPOUT is never reinstalled, the timing will never advance, and will result in the same exact problems you described in your other thread.

Going by the info you presented in your other thread, it almost sounds like a timing advance issue/ignition related issue/low fuel pressure.

 

I do remember you mentioned rebuilding this engine yourself, what parts did you use in the rebuild? someone like Conanski might get a clue if you post them. I'm starting to think there is a serious timing issue going on.

 

Like post #Bob G. saidm all ok as far as the engine its origional I meant I didnt
rebuild it I meant I rebuild engines. Hard to explain. I dont possess 10 grand worth of diagnostic
stuff. Best I have is feeler gauges. Today the cats got the sawsall. Wow
I got it up to 55, but still towing a 320 cat excavator. The sound of a
starving gas job jawwwww ( four barrels wide open) jawwwwww you all know
that sound. I bet the previous owner has timing chain off a tooth. My gut feelings is like somebodys got their foot over the tail pipe, things got broncitis.
Again temp gage not lifted not even a mile, there it goes. I got three nice
"430s" most dont know this, but the back (bellhousing) is same as an FE,
all FE flywheels or flex plates goes right on the 383 or 430. Now that a real
motor. Back in my drag days 430s ate 460s in the first 20 feet.I know you
people know more about this new stuff but my business needs a truck, I got
no choice but I gotta swap my number plates back on the 78 or something,
oh I forgot; I didnt see anything in the cats. Or somebody stuffed base *****
in the tail pipes.

 

An Equus inova 3145 code reader from O'reilly's and a volt meter is all you need to trouble shoot one of these trucks. The code reader runs $35 or bit less. A good digital volt/ohm meter should be about the same.

Pull the codes! The manual with the reader tells you how to do it. Post the codes, we'll help you diagnose & get your truck running proper.

These PCM controlled engines are easy to get running right if you know what is wrong but they can be a nightmare if you decide to just shotgun parts to fix it.

Advice from another old gearhead that knows his way around a flattie,

Ray

 

Again, stop ranting man, what we need is information on what have you done to the engine yet. And all the tool you need to diagnose the computer in these engines is a paperclip... or even a 20$ equus 3145 code reader if you can't bear with using a paperclip. If you have gauges even better, you can measure the fuel pressure at the rail and the compression at the cylinders.

 

beleive me Im not ranting, Just a fact my 50F6 flathead is only a million times more
dependable than this thing. I retired my former 93 cause it took fits bucking
like a "gremlin" under the hood who pulls out a few plug wires. So I got this one
turned out worse than the other one, However I had only one problem in two
blizzards, ran two days fine then acted just like water in the gas which is
doubtful- truck used 5 tanks gas in that storm. Popin, backfire, just about
creeping then broke out of it, that was (Jan 2013). Just hard for my to explain
I'll try this one. I take off fine, sweet, OK, a mile away I go up a little grade,
somebody under the hood takes my distrubutor and wacks it a half turn to
retard. Just what it feels and sounds like. How does it retard it self with no vac advance? Maybe there is a unknown gov. in there, goverened at 900 rpms.
V6 GMC's gov. is in the oil pump, bet nobody knows that, when they went bad you you went nowhere.

 

Did you replace the TFI as you were told to? I don't remember if you replaced the coil, but usually those two are the ones to fail in that manner when the engine warms up. Have your son take the ECM (computer) out and have him have the computer tested to see if it's right.

 

The computer controls the timing, that's why the guys keep asking if you pulled the codes, but all you do is bitch about how bad it is but give no clues.. No one can help you until you co-operate and help them!!!!!!

 

EEC-IV cars and trucks are easy to diagnose issues. People just don't take advice, jump the gun, and make it a hell of a lot harder than it needs to be. Why do you want to revert back to an old carb set up where you have to figure issues out yourself when you have a computer that will TELL you the issues you have right now?

 

Cummins 6BT swap it.

/thread