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I'm working on an older gentleman's '89, F-150, 5.8, that has a bad Egr Vacuum Solenoid. We have confirmed it is the problem. As of right now, the green vac line to the EVP is capped off, and the truck runs as it did, before the problems we experienced with it connected. It's pulling a vacuum steady, that is allowing the pintle to be pulled up and allow exhaust gases back into the intake, when it's just above idle. Had like a muffled backfire or miss.
My question is this...
This EGR Vacuum Solenoid is becoming obsolete and more expensive than ever. I'm including pictures of the "2" different EGR solenoids as reference and as the part that is OEM from '89. Can anyone elaborate on their success or their failure when trying to substitute the older one for the newer, more available one.
OEM for the '89, F-150, 5.8
Newer, available, on 300's, 302's, 460's
Thanks again.
I also tried the jy's, but they think it's GOLD too.!
Without the Calibration number I do not know for sure the CONTROL ASSY., (EGR Vacuum Regulator) it takes.
But here are a few Ford part numbers for 1989 trucks.
5.8L - E8TZ 9J459-C
5.0L - E63Z 9J459-A
4.9L - E63Z 9J459-A
7.5L - E8TZ 9J459-D
Thanks Subford. I actually don't have the calibration number from his truck, but the Ford Service Publication guide shows E8TE 9J459-CA as the part number.
As there any reason, other than the extension of the electrical connector, why the newer, shorter style could not work as a substitute? Oreilly's shows it as BWD @ $104.99, (Not Available online or Store) and RockAuto has "1" Airtexfor $35.79 and then shows Standard Motor Products as having stock for $54...
My question is whether anyone has been able to use the shorter, grey cap one in it's place. Can or has someone tried and/or could someone elaborate on it's difference. I DO know that you CANNOT use the black topped EGR solenoid because it's totally different, been there done that on my '92.
I listed some 89 Ford part numbers above but E8TE 9J459-CA is not a Ford part number, that is a drawing number.
Ford has never put a part number on a part as they change them from time to time but they do put a drawing number on them.
The Ford part number for the drawing number of E8TE 9J459-CA is E8TZ 9J459-C.
Also there is another solenoid with the drawing number of E8TE 9J459-CA and that part number is E8TZ 9J459-CA for California 89 trucks. Both numbers are for the 5.8L EFI 1989 truck.
Thanks Subford..I have been in a hurry and didn't really pay much attention to the Ford #'s. What I am really wanting to know is if I can substitute the top picture for the bottom picture. Its not a Cali truck, just Federal emissions. Its crappy that they are similar EXCEPT For the electrical extension. I mean it's identical in all other form. Does anyone have any experience with the smaller in place of the longer one?
I do not have any first hand knowledge of your proposed swap, but electrically I would think they would be the same. These EVR solenoids are very basic devices, I would imagine they would not have drastic design differences.
Hey Timbersteel, I came across this thread you started a few years ago. Now I'm facing the same exact problem... Can't find the solenoid for the 351ci engine at all. Exhausted all online and parts store possibilities.
So did you have any luck using the shorter style EGR valve control solenoid?
The one I have seems to be stuck open. I tried 12VDC or nothing, there's always vacuum going to EGR. Rough idle and stalling under light throttle.
Any help is appreciated!!
Originally Posted by timbersteel
I'm working on an older gentleman's '89, F-150, 5.8, that has a bad Egr Vacuum Solenoid. We have confirmed it is the problem. As of right now, the green vac line to the EVP is capped off, and the truck runs as it did, before the problems we experienced with it connected. It's pulling a vacuum steady, that is allowing the pintle to be pulled up and allow exhaust gases back into the intake, when it's just above idle. Had like a muffled backfire or miss.
My question is this...
This EGR Vacuum Solenoid is becoming obsolete and more expensive than ever. I'm including pictures of the "2" different EGR solenoids as reference and as the part that is OEM from '89. Can anyone elaborate on their success or their failure when trying to substitute the older one for the newer, more available one.
OEM for the '89, F-150, 5.8
Newer, available, on 300's, 302's, 460's
Thanks again.
I also tried the jy's, but they think it's GOLD too.!
Hey Timbersteel, I came across this thread you started a few years ago. Now I'm facing the same exact problem... Can't find the solenoid for the 351ci engine at all. Exhausted all online and parts store possibilities.
So did you have any luck using the shorter style EGR valve control solenoid?
The one I have seems to be stuck open. I tried 12VDC or nothing, there's always vacuum going to EGR. Rough idle and stalling under light throttle.
Any help is appreciated!!
Have you thought about putting an aluminum or sheet metal block off plate between the EGR and the intake? You can leave everything hooked up (maybe put a BB or something inline to block the vacuum to the controller) and you shouldn't get any codes this way. At least I don't get any codes.
Lots cheaper, and you can make the plate in 10 minutes. My 4.9 has been this way for around 10 years. If you happen to get any spark knock, just back up the timing a degree or two, though most likely you won't need to.
Thanks man. I did think about that but I'm afraid I will have too much NOX in the exhaust to pass California smog test.
For now that trick will definitely solve the problem. Just unhooking the vacuum from EGR makes a big difference.
So those shorter solenoids won't work on the 5.8L engine?
Thanks for the tip!
Originally Posted by yardbird
Have you thought about putting an aluminum or sheet metal block off plate between the EGR and the intake? You can leave everything hooked up (maybe put a BB or something inline to block the vacuum to the controller) and you shouldn't get any codes this way. At least I don't get any codes.
Lots cheaper, and you can make the plate in 10 minutes. My 4.9 has been this way for around 10 years. If you happen to get any spark knock, just back up the timing a degree or two, though most likely you won't need to.
Best bet would be to install the grey capped EVR and see if that works. Pick one up at AutoZone or O'Reillys so if it doesn't work, you can just return it.
I read more about why there is an extension, but that has been several years ago now.
Stumbled across this thread trying to figure out which EVP solenoid I needed as apparently there are no parts in production for my Ranger. (nothing 'fits' per any website)
Since mine was going bad anyway I decided to pull it apart for you guys and see! The connectors coming off of the parts is the same... in fact, the long extender piece disconnects from both ends and can be removed completely without any complaint from the wire harnesses. The only issue I can imagine having is if the extension actually holds a fuse of some sort that limits voltage in/out of the unit, kind of like the oil dummy switch they used in the late 80's/early 90's model trucks. I'm hesitant to cut it open for now in case I need it, but I can say for certain that if you have the long version, and buy the short version, you will have no issues with connections and if necessary, the extender can be transferred to the new part.
I think I'll take my multimeter out and test the extender piece for any resistance tonight. I'll report back on my findings later.
Since I couldn't find the part for my 5.8L I just put the one for the 5.0 in. No extender. No problem so far!
Originally Posted by EfficaciousMaximus
Stumbled across this thread trying to figure out which EVP solenoid I needed as apparently there are no parts in production for my Ranger. (nothing 'fits' per any website)
Since mine was going bad anyway I decided to pull it apart for you guys and see! The connectors coming off of the parts is the same... in fact, the long extender piece disconnects from both ends and can be removed completely without any complaint from the wire harnesses. The only issue I can imagine having is if the extension actually holds a fuse of some sort that limits voltage in/out of the unit, kind of like the oil dummy switch they used in the late 80's/early 90's model trucks. I'm hesitant to cut it open for now in case I need it, but I can say for certain that if you have the long version, and buy the short version, you will have no issues with connections and if necessary, the extender can be transferred to the new part.
I think I'll take my multimeter out and test the extender piece for any resistance tonight. I'll report back on my findings later.
I finally just got around to replacing mine through all of the rain, garage is busy with other projects.
There is a small resistor on the signal wire side. I checked it in circuit with a small battery and it reduced the voltage by about .13 to .16.
I assume there will be no issues with tossing the little extender piece, but it was likely to prevent the solenoid from accidentally triggering from small voltage irregularities in older models.
Thanks Subford. I actually don't have the calibration number from his truck, but the Ford Service Publication guide shows E8TE 9J459-CA as the part number. This is notthe part number, it's the ID engineering number marked on the part!
I realize this is an old thread, but the fact is that people confuse the ID number that is marked on the part with the actual part number that is not marked on the part.
E8TZ-9J459-A marked E8TE-9J459-AA =1989 F150 351W C6 except High Altitude, except CA emission.
I finally just got around to replacing mine through all of the rain, garage is busy with other projects.
There is a small resistor on the signal wire side. I checked it in circuit with a small battery and it reduced the voltage by about .13 to .16.
I assume there will be no issues with tossing the little extender piece, but it was likely to prevent the solenoid from accidentally triggering from small voltage irregularities in older models.
I have an 89 bronco 5.8L 351W. Mechanic stated that egr solenoid valve was losing vacuum and needed replaced but could not find the part. I have scoured everywhere for the part and finally decided to go with the below (black cap). I was able to get the OEM extended connector off the old part (just disconnects on each side) and connect it to the new one I bought from amazon. It seemed to work w/o issues but did not completely fix the idle up/down (about 1-2 rpm fluctuation) issue. Tried it w/o the connector and it worked and also seemed to correct the idle issue more than with the connector. I will try the one with the grey cap next to see if it works better somehow. The black cap one that I ordered is always listed on sites like rock auto and summit racing for a 1990-1996 (no 1989 though) Bronco and includes the 5.8L engines. The grey cap one (I will list below as well) is listed for 1987-1993 Bronco but only for 5.0 engines. I will post the results once I try the grey cap one but it definitely looks like the extender is not needed.
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