Connecting tie rod.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 116
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From: USA
Connecting tie rod.
I need to replace my Connecting Tie Rod on my '93 f250 4X4 and I was wondering how hard it is to do myself. I know I will need it aligned after the job is complete, but looking at it seems that it should be a un-bolt, bolt-up job. Is this true? or are there things I should be aware of before I start.
Thanks,
Geoff C.
Thanks,
Geoff C.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 555
Likes: 0
Connecting tie rod.
Hi Geoff,
I'm not sure what you mean by a connecting tie rod but it really does not matter as your truck has actually 4 rods. Basically to replace all you do first is pull out the cotter pin and undo the castle nut. Then either with a pickle fork tool or a hammer you can get the old rod separtated from its socket. If you use the hammer you will want to be careful what you hit. I always hit the part that the rod slips into. With a couple of good whacks it usually pops out. You may want to count the threads or mark the approximate spot where the old one was so that the new one gets in fairly close. A pipe wrench works great to unscrew the rod unless you have the proper tie rod tool.
I'm not sure what you mean by a connecting tie rod but it really does not matter as your truck has actually 4 rods. Basically to replace all you do first is pull out the cotter pin and undo the castle nut. Then either with a pickle fork tool or a hammer you can get the old rod separtated from its socket. If you use the hammer you will want to be careful what you hit. I always hit the part that the rod slips into. With a couple of good whacks it usually pops out. You may want to count the threads or mark the approximate spot where the old one was so that the new one gets in fairly close. A pipe wrench works great to unscrew the rod unless you have the proper tie rod tool.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,124
Likes: 1
From: Rural Florida Panhandle
Connecting tie rod.
My experience with pickle forks is that they tear up the boots on the joints.
When I use a hammer, most of the time I ruin the threads on the joint (tie-rod end, ball joint, etc). Sometimes I get the wrong part at the auto parts house and have to put my old one back in.
Anyway, for a few dollars you can buy a separator tool for either tie-rod ends or ball joints. They make the job easier, safer, and have much less chance of damage to components.
Like Mike said, if you count the threads, you can put the new part back in close enough until you get to the front-end shop.
However, the stubborn streak in me being as it is, I do it myself. If you only change a steering component (no ball joints), the only alignment affected is toe-in. I adjust mine by:
1 - Making sure the vehicle is heading straight, steering wheel centered.
2 - Take a 4 or 5 foot straight edge and lay it against the tire, with the straight edge going directly past the center of the hub, and the other end on the floor - first in front, then in rear of tire.
3 - Mark the position of the straight edge on the floor, front and rear of tire. Repeat for the other tire.
4 - Measure the distance between the marks at front and rear. Rear should be slightly longer. I use something between 1/4 and 3/8 inch as OK. This gives a slight toe-in. It may not be to specs, but it works for me on all 5 of my vehicles.
Winford
When I use a hammer, most of the time I ruin the threads on the joint (tie-rod end, ball joint, etc). Sometimes I get the wrong part at the auto parts house and have to put my old one back in.
Anyway, for a few dollars you can buy a separator tool for either tie-rod ends or ball joints. They make the job easier, safer, and have much less chance of damage to components.
Like Mike said, if you count the threads, you can put the new part back in close enough until you get to the front-end shop.
However, the stubborn streak in me being as it is, I do it myself. If you only change a steering component (no ball joints), the only alignment affected is toe-in. I adjust mine by:
1 - Making sure the vehicle is heading straight, steering wheel centered.
2 - Take a 4 or 5 foot straight edge and lay it against the tire, with the straight edge going directly past the center of the hub, and the other end on the floor - first in front, then in rear of tire.
3 - Mark the position of the straight edge on the floor, front and rear of tire. Repeat for the other tire.
4 - Measure the distance between the marks at front and rear. Rear should be slightly longer. I use something between 1/4 and 3/8 inch as OK. This gives a slight toe-in. It may not be to specs, but it works for me on all 5 of my vehicles.
Winford
