I have a 1978 F-150 4x4 with a 4 speed standard trans. I just bought a cj motor bored 40 over that the bottom end is built and everything is balanced. I have a cj victor intake, bare cj heads that have been ported. I need to know what to put in my heads/cam/carb/dist. I want something for the street but not a daily driver but pump gas. I will only drive it maybe one day here and there just to play. I am building a bad *** toy. Comp cams recommended a 236/236 634 110 cam. I am not a engine builder so I have no idea if that is what I need. The guy was a jerk and just wanted me off the phone. Thanks for any help.

 

what are your casting#'s on head. also the ports are big and the 429 will require lots of rpms to work. almost better off with standard port heads ported. Or you can stroke the engine and will help utilize the big ports. One of the tricks to make these heads work is to deport the heads and build a filler in btm of runner to help velocity down ports. lots of little tricks for these heads. similar trick for the 351 CJ heads, www.pricemotorsports.com check these guys out. www.mpgheads.com talk to scott for a cam, BIG TIME ford guy and cuts cams. Been using mpgheads for yrs on cams. would reccomend a solid or if money is good go roller. Been running solids for many yrs and have to use the high zinc oils or buy a additive with your oil.

 

Ran this setup many yrs ago. ran a stealth intake back in the day. 4speed you need a centerforce clutch dual friction or better minimun. also your gonna need to build something to control axle wrap and the 9" will not survive. I eventually did the dana 60 rear and converted the dana 44 to 8 lug up front and got the dual piston breaks from a 78 F250 4wd. Ran this combo for many yrs and mud raced. the dana 44 and 38" boggers 44 is maxed out and will give it up!! need to upgrade the engine motor mounts. check out www.autofab.com and check into the urethane engine mounts. very stout and will not break! If you brake you probably died in devastating crash!!easy to replace bushings and cheap. If engine mounts break you break bellhousing at clutch fork hole at bellhousing. also happened with C6 and broke housing$$$$$$$. L and L engine mounts broke twice, expensive. down the road i reccomend going auto and doing a manual shift C6 and quicker shifting. the manual tranny hard to shift quick, sometime you miss a shift and then driveline and yoke bind and lots of bad things happen. had problems with frame breaking at rear crossmember and had to weld up. also weld up around engine mounts also, factory welds not so good sometimes. lots of things twisting up and doing bad things. its was a lot to figure out and money and FUN! Good time and school of hard knocks! Any questions drop a message. still have this engine and really like with the smaller ports and stealth intake. helps on the BTM end torque depending on your stall converter. ran 3000 stall and 2000 stall. 3000 to much for street will burn up and not really for farting around. 3000 is all business and if you go bigger more pissed off and less streetable. remembering the good ole day. Really like hughes converters and not to many problems. stay away from TCI converters. Hard parts are good converters bad! adios amigo.

 

If not sure on casting#. if a true CJ head your valve cover bolt hole will be drilled through to intake port. if not its a standard port engine which is good. also the CJ blocks are 4 bolt mains. I have these parts. some of the 4 bolt mains are actually stamped 460 on front of the block up front can be deceptive. the block are heavier than standard block. heavy main webbing at 4 bolt mains. stronger cylinder walls. good block! Just remembering stuff. www.mpgheads sells windage tray and crank scrapers for oil control and easy to install and setup with factory oil pan. My heads are CNC ported by scott main MPG heads in colorado!