welcome to fte there is a lot of information on this site,these guys are great & always willing to help you, where are you from?

 

Wow man! You've come a long way. And wiring...heck that's easy! There are tons of options when it comes to wiring, and you certainly can make it really complicated, but in truth the hardest part is figuring out where to tuck the things you want to wire in. Mounting stereo systems, courtesy lights, heat/A/C, etc. is the difficult part. But there's lots of help here for that stuff.

That motor does seem really far back there. I'm not as familiar with the mid-fifties as my own vintage, but it seems a guy should be able to bring it forward a ways without causing trouble...but you already have links to research to determine that for sure.

Great truck! Great Progress! You're in the right place to get the info and get it finished!

Jim

 

Nice truck,I gave a friend fenders better than that and he didn't use them.Nice repair!I always wanted to put a 460 in one myself!

 

No, the drivers door came off of the truck I got my bed from, it is clearly in a lot better shape.

The engine is a ridiculous 8inches into the cab lol. I would like to move the engine mount to either on top of the cross member or right in front of it. Moving it forward will make alot more room for the other components like the steering column. I've measured it out and I can move the engine forward the 8'' to remove the recess and have everything else still fit. (with the radiator in the stock location)

For the radiator I want to have a custom one made vs. finding an OEM one that fits because I don't want to run into cooling issues for the amount of power this thing makes.

, John

 

It sounds like someone was trying to make a mid-engine truck. Did they cut the firewall and recess it into the cab another 8 inches? No wonder you don't have any room in the cab!

 

Haha yes, I did it though! One of the many things that I did when I first started that I am unhappy with and changing now.

 

So I measured everything up. Her is what I've come up with. Its not to scale but all the numbers are true. I have plenty of room to fit the engine in the bay. What concerns me is the weight in front of the center of the axle. I tried to get all the info I need if there is anything missing that would be helpful please let me know.

So if I move the engine forward 8" like I planned it will leave 8" of engine length behind the center of the front cross member. It will place 13" of engine over the front of the center of the cross member. Assuming the engine has a constant weight through it will have an 62/38 weight balance Front/Rear.

I'm not sure if this is a good or bad ratio to have. I also checked if I Only moved forward 7" and that gives me an 57/43, front/rear balance. I've tried to Bing a recommended weight over axle but only turned up loading semi truck trailers. Also I have a 7qt rear sump pan that might move a little weight back.










Thank you for your help, John

 

Where will you find room for the 7 qt. rear sump pan if you only have about 4" of engine behind the crossmember? Just wondering.

 

If I remember right when I measured it I will have about 1/2" gap between the oil pan and cross member, and just 1/4" above it. That's after moving everything forward.

, John

 

How about using an F450 front spring?

 

It's an old pick up truck, not a modern sports car, the weight distribution is always going to be bad, along with the roll center, it's the nature of the animal. You can either live with it, pick another vehicle or mount the engine in the bed.

John,
May I offer some solid advice from >50 years of experience to hopefully save you time, money, energy, and from stressing out:
The first thing to do is the least expensive (now but will make a big difference later), but it is the most important! Sit down with a pack of large size index cards and pencil and develop a plan for the build. Not a "change this, modify that, use these wheels, paint it such and such a color" plan, but a "here's what I want this truck to be when it grows up and here's what it needs to do that..." type plan. Don't get lost in the details, keep your desires in generalities and don't concern yourself with the "hows" right now. Put one general goal on each index card. We'll call these the Goal cards.
You should end up with a stack of Goal cards with a goal statement such as: Be able to depend on as my only vehicle daily driver; be comfortable for me and a passenger to drive/ride in for long trips; be able to haul heavy loads; be dependable and economical to drive; be able to enter/trophy in my local park and sit (or major indoor, or national level, or ???) shows; corner like a sports car at autocrosses and/or on twisty roads; be a bracket terror at the drag strip; be a race only race car; have ruler straight body and killer paint job; etc; etc; etc. on each one. What is on the Goal cards and how many there are is completely up to you, only you know what you want, but make sure everything you want is covered.
Lay the cards out and sort them in order of importance from most important/must be to it would be nice, to I could easily live without it, and finally I'd still be happy with the world if it never happened. Write each card's order # on it at the top in pencil (it may change some later). This stack is the start of your plan, get a card box and keep the cards in it until the build is done.
Next, start with Goal card #1: critically analyze your truck with that card's statement in mind. Does the truck as it is now meet that requirement? If it does, wonderful! Write yes on the card and put it back in the box. If it doesn't, make a list on the card of what is needed to meet the requirement. Keep it general. Leave room for notes between items on the list. Do this for each card. Now a card might look like this:
Card #3
Be comfortable for me and a passenger to drive/ride in over long distances
goal met: No
Needs:
New glass
Weatherstripping
Soft but not floaty or harsh suspension, more Lexus than Dump truck.
Power steering
Power brakes
3 point seat belts
A/C
Comfortable seat(s)
Power windows
Good tunes

Do this for each card.

Note: some needs are likely appear on more than one Goal card. Circle the repeated needs and note how many times it showed up. Make another card and label it Critical Needs and list those repeated needs by their frequency of appearance.
Notice there is still no details or any specific mods or parts, The Critical Needs should be what you address first.

Now you need to develop a time line and budget for your build.
First the budget: Examine your finances carefully and realistically! How much ready cash can you devote to this build right now, per month, per year without running yourself short?Don't consider future raises or promotions, gifts, windfalls, hitting the lottery etc, only cold hard cash you have in the bank, under your mattress, in the cookie jar, and/or left over regularly between paychecks that you don't know what else to do with. If you lived in your parent's basement for the last ten years, don't date, drive a vehicle that uses more than a quart of oil a week, borrow money from friends (likely not going to be friends much longer) relatives or quick cash places between paychecks regularly, can't afford to eat anything but cup o' ramen noodles, are on public assistance, and/or shop at Goodwill when you need new underwear, stop right here and take up a different/cheaper hobby like collecting paper bar coasters at strip clubs. The serious reality is it costs $15-25K minimum to put a "25 footer" on the road, doing almost all the work yourself in a well equipped shop. Double that easily with a fancy paint job, full aftermarket suspension upgrade, built up or crate motor, pro interior. Allocate your funds by amount along an availability timeline.

Now go back to your critical needs card. make a subset card for each critical need: It might look like this:
Critical Need #3: Safe comfortable riding front suspension.
How much of your available funds can you allocate to this need and over what period of time? Reality check #2: whatever you do to one of these trucks it is going to cost 2X as much and take 3X as long to do as your most generous estimate! Plan accordingly!!!!
Now research and identify two or more potential means of meeting the critical need:
3A. rebuild existing suspension. R&R OEM suspension: replace kingpins/bushings, tie rod ends, remove every other spring leaf, replace spring eye bushings, re-align,
within my skill set/equipment/tools/space? yes with existing tools, machine shop to press ream kingpin bushings. adjust/replace OEM steering box.
cost: ~ 400.00 (800.00 with rebuilt box). funds available: now
time: ~ 1 week.
3B. Upgrade beam axle suspension. Replace axle with 3" dropped replacement, replace springs with "down and forward", replace tie rod with new HD, Toyota PS conversion, modify existing column or replace with aftermarket tilt column.
DIY: yes, all bolt in, (OEM column mods: minor/easy) need to source PS pump mount/drive provision for particular engine.
cost: 1000.00 -2000.00 depending on if buying used or new steering box/pump, aftermarket column/steering wheel. Funds available: now to 2 months.
time: 2 weeks
3C. Replace with Jag IFS Remove beam axle, Source/rebuild used Jag IFS unit as needed. Modify/replace steering column, Source PS pump mount/drive. Unit includes R&P PS, disk brakes, wheels, IRS, etc + extras if complete donor car is sourced. Crossmember out rigger, shock mounts must be scratch fabbed, small amount of welding. can be done off premises.
DIY: yes with outsourced welding.
Cost: $ 00.00 to 1500.00 depending on donor unit cost/condition, reselling removed OEM/extra donor parts. Funds available: in 4 months.
Time: 2 months
3D. Aftermarket MII type IFS. Replace beam axle with mid level MII style IFS assembly from US manufacturer with PS, disk brakes, tube a-arms shock in coil springs, aftermarket column and wheel.
DIY: ? needs major equipment, 1-2 experienced careful installers, high skill welder. Difficulty depends a lot on unit supplier. Chinese clones and economy stripped units are typically problematic in install and in use. PS pump mount/drive needs to be sourced. frame needs to be stripped back to firewall, boxed.
Cost: $3 - 5 K depending on unit/options selected, can go $1 - 3 K higher with air bags. Funds available: not this year,
Time: 3 - 6 months

NOTE TO FORUM MEMBERS: examples above is only for demonstration of plan construction methodology, not necessarily fact! Please don't quote or criticize the details!!!

Do this for each critical need, then repeat for the rest of your Goal cards.

Your exterior finish Goal card might include: A. original patina, B, Primer with sealer or top coat. C. Solid color implement paint, D. BC/CC E. High impact tri coat paint.
Now the hard but important/revealing part!: You need to select the most realistic solution to each requirement based first on allocating available funding along a full build timeline then by personal satisfaction with the solution. You will likely need to do a lot of juggling and compromising (and possibly even some deletions) until everything fits. add 50 - 100% more time for life getting in the way and you'll see a pretty good estimate of what you'll be doing for the next several years/decades and when your truck may actually be drivable!
Remember the high end options may not be affordable or even the BEST option for you. a lot of modifications are made because 1. It sounds cool to say you have it i.e. rear disk brakes. 2. "everybody" (usually refers to the never did a build themselves dreamers and/or well meaning but clueless, I saw it on the internet/TV/in a magazine friends and relatives) says that's what needs to be done, i.e. frame swap. 3. It's what the deep pockets/spending other people's money show offs do to get their build noticed/pictured in magazines/on TV that does little to nothing to make a practical drivable truck, i.e airbags/laying frame, gigantic High HP engines that can pass anything on the street but a gas station, run only on $9 a gal racing gas and collect tickets like flies on a garbage truck.
There is absolutely nothing wrong with or unsafe about the OEM frame, a beam axle and leaf springs or drum brakes! You need to decide if it is more important to fall over a pile of expensive parts you don't have the time or money to finish or enjoying/driving being complimented on a simpler but still eye catching truck? There is a great deal to be said for the KISS rule!

 

Ax, where were you when I started on my F3 10 years ago???? I would have been done by now and actually would have a had a plan to do it!!!!

 

Good advice AX! But don't forget to also sit down with a 6pack of some cold beverage to soak all that knowledge in. Just don't try to work before you sleep it off!

 

HAH !!!!!!! a man after my own heart..... do it... do it again different !!!! and he has a good first name...

you go John... you're young and do-overs are easy on youngsters

welcome to FTE

later
John (call me the do-over director)

 

Axe where were you when I totally stripped a50 tudor at age 13 LOL.