single 2 second beep when going over a speed bump
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New User
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single 2 second beep when going over a speed bump
Howdy,
I have a 2000 Ex with V10. I just experienced what appears to be an intermittent problem...the best kind right?..
Lately, when I go over a speed bump it appears that when the rear wheels clear the bump, I get about a 2 second beep, sounds like from under the dash. Funny thing, it doesn't happen always...but is starting to be pretty regular. I guess I could try to avoid speed bumps?...lol
Any ideas please?
PS
I'm about as mechanically inclined as a turtle...not really but...I'm no mechanic by any stretch of the imagination.
I have a 2000 Ex with V10. I just experienced what appears to be an intermittent problem...the best kind right?..
Lately, when I go over a speed bump it appears that when the rear wheels clear the bump, I get about a 2 second beep, sounds like from under the dash. Funny thing, it doesn't happen always...but is starting to be pretty regular. I guess I could try to avoid speed bumps?...lol
Any ideas please?
PS
I'm about as mechanically inclined as a turtle...not really but...I'm no mechanic by any stretch of the imagination.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 194
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From: South Carolina
Have the same thing
Funny you should report this. I have experienced the same thing. I notice it depends upon the steering wheel elevation setting. It seems to happen when the wheel is in the lowest setting. My suspicion is that a wire is shorting in the steering column.
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New User
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Thanks. I'll check, I always have the steering wheel at it's lowest setting...but my wife moves it all the time so I've not made that correlation yet.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 19,762
Likes: 1,079
From: St Louis
An "open" circuit is one that is just that - open. That means that there is no path for current to flow so the circuit does nothing.
A "short" circuit is one in which there is an undesired or unintended current path, usually caused by exposed circuit elements touching each other due to loss of insulation or improper assembly. Such a path is a "shortcut" for the current and is undesirable. It will usually cause a blown fuse, burned wires, or, in the case of low-power signals from sensor, a constant signal level that is erroneous.
You can likely find more detailed descriptions in a basic electronics tech or electrician's study material.
As far as the observed beeping is concerned, is there any way to identify the general area under the dash from which it is coming?
A "short" circuit is one in which there is an undesired or unintended current path, usually caused by exposed circuit elements touching each other due to loss of insulation or improper assembly. Such a path is a "shortcut" for the current and is undesirable. It will usually cause a blown fuse, burned wires, or, in the case of low-power signals from sensor, a constant signal level that is erroneous.
You can likely find more detailed descriptions in a basic electronics tech or electrician's study material.
As far as the observed beeping is concerned, is there any way to identify the general area under the dash from which it is coming?
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2012
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From: Littleton, CO
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New User
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 9
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An "open" circuit is one that is just that - open. That means that there is no path for current to flow so the circuit does nothing.
A "short" circuit is one in which there is an undesired or unintended current path, usually caused by exposed circuit elements touching each other due to loss of insulation or improper assembly. Such a path is a "shortcut" for the current and is undesirable. It will usually cause a blown fuse, burned wires, or, in the case of low-power signals from sensor, a constant signal level that is erroneous.
You can likely find more detailed descriptions in a basic electronics tech or electrician's study material.
As far as the observed beeping is concerned, is there any way to identify the general area under the dash from which it is coming?
A "short" circuit is one in which there is an undesired or unintended current path, usually caused by exposed circuit elements touching each other due to loss of insulation or improper assembly. Such a path is a "shortcut" for the current and is undesirable. It will usually cause a blown fuse, burned wires, or, in the case of low-power signals from sensor, a constant signal level that is erroneous.
You can likely find more detailed descriptions in a basic electronics tech or electrician's study material.
As far as the observed beeping is concerned, is there any way to identify the general area under the dash from which it is coming?
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Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2012
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From: Salem, VA
This is what I was going to suggest. I hate asking the obvious, but are any lights coming on when the "ding" goes off?
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 19,762
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From: St Louis
There is a multi-purpose chime built into the GEM module for the key, headlight, airbag, all of the door latches including the lift gate, the glass, and for the seat belt buckle. The GEM module is just forward of the driver's left knee, above the fuse panel.
If you have the parking aid, its speaker should be in the rear, so that should be easy to isolate.
I'm going to go with AzPatMan's suggestion that its a door (or liftgate glass) switch that is getting briefly actuated when the truck goes over a hard bump. I'd check all of the doors and glass to see if there might be excessive play in the latch mechanism such that it might allow the switch to be momentarily activated when the speed bump is hit. It might be such a momentary change in the switch's state that the cluster "Door Ajar" lamp might not have enough time to be turned on.
If you have the parking aid, its speaker should be in the rear, so that should be easy to isolate.
I'm going to go with AzPatMan's suggestion that its a door (or liftgate glass) switch that is getting briefly actuated when the truck goes over a hard bump. I'd check all of the doors and glass to see if there might be excessive play in the latch mechanism such that it might allow the switch to be momentarily activated when the speed bump is hit. It might be such a momentary change in the switch's state that the cluster "Door Ajar" lamp might not have enough time to be turned on.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 695
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From: Littleton, CO
It appears to be coming from the same place where the sound comes from when you turn the key off remove them then open the door. It's not the door open with key in sound...that's more like a chime. It's actually more like the backup warning sound...but it's only a single tone and only for about 1 to 2 seconds. Hope that narrows it down for you. Thanks.
I know on my EX - it's not a "DING" that goes off when it's running/Key-on.
It's about a 2 second 'beeep' when any door or the rear hatch get's opened.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,407
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From: Milwaukee, WI
x4 on the rear hatch door ajar. Maybe sit in the car with it running and have a friend pull on the lift gate vigirously. See if that initiates the same sound you are hearing at speed bumps. I seem to remember it may need to be in gear to chime as door ajar. If you have to test it in gear, be VERY careful.
I had the same type of problem and cleaned the liftgate latches. Didn't even have to remove anything, just cleaned and lubed them, actuated them a few times and problem solved.
I had the same type of problem and cleaned the liftgate latches. Didn't even have to remove anything, just cleaned and lubed them, actuated them a few times and problem solved.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 695
Likes: 1
From: Littleton, CO
x4 on the rear hatch door ajar. Maybe sit in the car with it running and have a friend pull on the lift gate vigirously. See if that initiates the same sound you are hearing at speed bumps. I seem to remember it may need to be in gear to chime as door ajar. If you have to test it in gear, be VERY careful.
It doesn't need to be in gear.
Was pretty quiet too.
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New User
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No...no lights just a tone...and the rear doors are locked and secure.