battery's or no?
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2011
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battery's or no?
my computer is acting funny every time I try to search older post? so, Im having a no start issue, cranks awesome, 4 or 5 times for 10 seconds, until the battery's start to drain. I stopped by the auto parts place and asked them to check the alternator while running. it was putting out 87 amps at idle. is this good amperage, or should it be higher? then he checked the batteries, engine off, 13.7v of course I did just get done driving for thirty minutes. I don't no the year of the batteries? I have only had the truck for 14 months and they are spotless and new looking. but could it be battery's? there made by centennial?
Im just wondering, it all started yesterday when the weather hit above 80 at work, so of course, after a long 10 hours, to walk out to the rig and Shniggle's! then first thing this mournin, I hooked the X up to it for 5 minutes and vroom!!! then today same thing? I bought an alternator, but shoot, I want save every penny I can so I thought id ask your opinions.
Thanks guys!
Im just wondering, it all started yesterday when the weather hit above 80 at work, so of course, after a long 10 hours, to walk out to the rig and Shniggle's! then first thing this mournin, I hooked the X up to it for 5 minutes and vroom!!! then today same thing? I bought an alternator, but shoot, I want save every penny I can so I thought id ask your opinions.
Thanks guys!
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 7,826
Likes: 96
From: Manteca,Ca
do you have any gauges to read live data? I would check ficm vlts,check batteries separete 13.5 is not bad single you could have a cell going out, also the FICM connections some times the pins get bent when Installing or not snaped in all the way,are the batts posts clean.on the no start try unplugging the ICP connection
FTE Legend
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 161,104
Likes: 8,087
From: North Bay Ont Canada
Check the batteries with a hydrometer cell by cell, if you have one bad cell replace both batteries, I just did, your FICM will thank you........... also check your alternator output at about 2000 FPM, should be 13.5 to 13.7 approx
Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,138
Likes: 7
From: South Weber, Utah
X3 on having the batteries load tested and they must be done separately ( completely disconnected from one another ) If the alternator was at hot idle when tested then the 87 AMPs isn't bad, but if one of the batteries has a dead cell the alternator wont last long putting out continuous maximum amperage.
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 396
Likes: 7
From: Wherever the RV is parked
Just as an aside. The experts can chime in here on this, but I think if you disconnect your batteries you'll have to follow the transmission re-learning procedure. Seems to be pretty easy and straight forward process.
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2011
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Hmmm I just noticed that the batteries are both 650 CCA, everywhere I checked on the web and put in my vehicle, it only pops up with 750 cca and 850 cca batteries. Do any of you think that could be the issue? under powered batteries finally taken a dump maybe?
More Turbo
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 574
Likes: 3
From: Grand Rapids,MI
probally bad batteries or battery what year is your truck and do they look like originals, also where do you live ? get the highest cca you can find, easier on the total system
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Freshman User
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up in Washington state. I don't know much about these 6.0's but dang I just don't know? acouple guys said glow plugs, but its been in the 80's up here?
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Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,056
Likes: 235
From: Saratoga Springs,UT
650CCA Batterys are TOO Small Your Working A lot of Expensive electronics HARD
I will 2nd the Battery HYDRO TEST
Its a tester under 5bucks and everybit as Good As there Actual Test you pull the Batterys out for The REAL LOAD Test Inside the Store
Hydro is Very ACCURITE TEST Method
ALSO your Batterys are Under powered You should have a 750 CCA Batterys Or REALLY 1500CCA you add them together
But 650CCA are too small
Stock my Truck Had 750CCA Batterys
I Upgraded to 850CCA Batterys or 1700CCA
With a HIGH Output Alternator DC POWER 190AMP
Its Cheaper in the Long Run to Upgrade the Batterys and Alternators then KILL FICM/Injectors
I will 2nd the Battery HYDRO TEST
Its a tester under 5bucks and everybit as Good As there Actual Test you pull the Batterys out for The REAL LOAD Test Inside the Store
Hydro is Very ACCURITE TEST Method
ALSO your Batterys are Under powered You should have a 750 CCA Batterys Or REALLY 1500CCA you add them together
But 650CCA are too small
Stock my Truck Had 750CCA Batterys
I Upgraded to 850CCA Batterys or 1700CCA
With a HIGH Output Alternator DC POWER 190AMP
Its Cheaper in the Long Run to Upgrade the Batterys and Alternators then KILL FICM/Injectors
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,056
Likes: 235
From: Saratoga Springs,UT
Somethings Wrong other then Batterys if you have to do This Much Cranking to Start & Run the Truck Everytime
Mine Runs after a 1-3 Seconds Starter Engaugement
Your Batterys were Underpowered Alittle But they Should Start and Run Truck IMO
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 6,950
Likes: 510
From: Foothills, CA
You need to get some live data (for all times on a 6.0, but particularly now). Do you have a smart phone? Some of the best monitoring stuff out there is Dash Boss for and iPhone/pad or Torque Pro for a Droid phone/pad. Pretty much nothing else in the price range of those comes even close...
A lot of guys here use ScanGauge II -- good stuff, very time consuming to set up and it's a limited text only display when you get going; BUT: you can get one tomorrow and there are a TON of experts here to help you with it!
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Freshman User
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my buddy came over with his 6.0, changed batteries and no... she cranks like a dream but no run. we swapped FICM relays, nothing, checked the FICM on the valve cover, everything checks out. checked the glow plug control and its at .7 ohms I believe is what he said. hmmmm. she cranks, she gets fuel, the glow plug C.M. im trying tomorrow, ugh lots of fun carpooling to work....
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 6,950
Likes: 510
From: Foothills, CA
So you swapped batts with your bud's truck or did you try jumping it? If it ran just fine, and then would start only with a jump, and now not start at all...
Hmmm, there have been bad FICMs that test out ok, but it sounds like we have that or another gremlin that's popped up. Does your buddy have any way to monitor the truck in real time?
Would really like to know for sure what your FICM voltages read while cranking, and then there's several other things Benny will help you check. But need some data at this point...
Hmmm, there have been bad FICMs that test out ok, but it sounds like we have that or another gremlin that's popped up. Does your buddy have any way to monitor the truck in real time?
Would really like to know for sure what your FICM voltages read while cranking, and then there's several other things Benny will help you check. But need some data at this point...